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So, I need to make a 2 litre duratec bolt to a MTX 3 transmission. I have no clue how to go about it. What are the basics of making and using an adapter plate?
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here's the concept. You need the centerline of the crank to line up on the X and Y axis with the input shaft of the transmission.
The last way I did this (401 Buick Nailhead to a Turbo 350) was with a piece of hardwood the same size as the largest flange (in this case the 401) I drilled a hole in the center the same dimension as the pilot bearing, turned a shaft down to fill the hole, then welded a tube to the outside diameter of the shaft. Bolted the wood to the block, lined up the transmission off the center, marked, drilled, tapped the holes and marked the outside of the bellhousing. Took the resulting piece of wood to the laser cutting place, and they CAD copied it, then lasered me out a piece 5/8" thick that had the holes, and the outline of the flange of the transmission. They cut the inside to at minimum 1/2" from the bolt holes. I countersunk the block holes, tapped the transmission holes... and it worked great (with a bit of help from a couple of offset dowels).
In short, all you need is a good math calculator (to determine the center), a welder, a lathe, a mill, a CAD copy program (they scanned it), and a CNC laser... next time I called advanced adapter and paid their outrageous price saving myself days of work...
However, I'd never give back the experience of doing it and it working so have at it - I bet it'll be killerDoing it all wrong since 1966 -
where does the starter bolt to? If it's the block, you don't have to worry about the flywheel. If it's the bellhousing, you need to keep your starter's position in mind (ie, might need a spacer for the flywheel equal to the adapter thickness.
How much different is the trans mounting for the Duratec's manual? ie, can you get the trans and bolt it in too?
Sounds like a pain. Get one out of a Ranger and make it RWD? Grin.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
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does it fit the pilot bearing ?Comment
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This guy tells you everything you need know. >>> http://www.fordexp.com/tech_articles/zetec_engine_swap <<<
"Note: While the Zetec bolts right to the MTX-III transmission there are some gaps that should be sealed by making a plate to put between engine and transmission. I still have to do that."
Pic of engine & trans: http://www.fordexp.com/tech_articles...swap/img04.jpg
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The Zetec 2.0 uses a different bellhousing than the Duratec. I do things the hard way.Comment
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excellent question - you can probably bush one way or the other, but is the input shaft long enough with the spacer / adapter in place?Originally posted by SpiderGearsMan View Post
I'd guess if you were gonna use an oilite bushing, you could make one longer where it would stick out of the crank the extra distance?Last edited by Beagle; August 20, 2011, 07:21 AM.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
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What year Duratec are you using? If it's a newer one you're gonna have fun making the dual mass flywheel work with the MTX III trans.Originally posted by 98ciHemi View Post
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Yeah- not happening. I'll be swapping on a single mass. My plan for the clutch is to find a regular flywheel that fits, mount it on a mill and drill out holes for the mounting dowels and bolts for the MTX clutch. I can either grind off or make a spacer to get the distance correct for the input shaft.Comment
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This is great stuff. And it would probably come in handy soon for me while building a compact tractor (think Cub-Lo-Boy-ish) if i were't useing a 4.3 and have several GM trannys. But then again a real compact may come up with a blown motor.......Great original question and ansqwer.Originally posted by 98ciHemi View PostPreviously HoosierL98GTAComment
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So, the plan right now is to make the thing on a vertical mill. My retired machine trades teacher will be turning the handles. My current question is whether I should be using steel or aluminum for the plate. Any thoughts? I know the cost and weight difference of course, but I don't know if there is a specific reason to use one or the other. What are they normally?Comment
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strength would be my number one. The weight difference isn't enough for me to worry about it in this application. I guess to use an example, how many aluminum motor mounts do you see from the OEM's and they are always sweating weight for CAFE reasons. I think the fatigue life is probably better with steel. For aluminum, I'd question the rigidity in something thin enough for this application. Structural steel is about 4 times as rigid as T6 aluminum.Last edited by Beagle; September 4, 2011, 11:50 AM.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.Comment
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So, where might one find a piece of 5/8ths steel plate in approximately 24"x24" dimensions? It seems like a bit of a bugger of a piece of metal to find.Comment
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It's really no different than trying to glue them back on after she has her way.Comment
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x2 or find a good(real) steel surplier..Originally posted by Ron Ward View PostTake a torch and visit the nearest shipyard...
RonComment
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