Best burnout proceedure for tranmissionss and race tires

[CDMBill]

The related thread about best trans for burnouts got me thinking that I'm doing it wrong. So I'd like to hear wha's right with some specific examples of transmissions and drag tire types so this can be a bit of a reference for everybody on the BS site who drag races.

When pulling around into staging I watch the guy who ispulling people into the water box to see if he leaves them in the puddle or ahead or short of it. I pull into the water when the starter/staging guy says to and then I may move a bit forward if he has me still in the puddle. I don't want to fill the wheel with water as the tire begins to spin. So starting with 1st gear I just get the tire spinning with very little throttle and then shsift to second and bring up the wheel speed to around 4-4500 RPM. I am using an Ford AOD which is an odd ball trans on this forum and I note many folks say to start in second and go to third on a three speed, but second is what the AOD builder receommended.

I'm running darg radials these days and after 2-3 seconds I can feel the wheel speed begin to slow as tire heats up and as soon as I feel that I drive out of the burnout easing of the gas. If the tire temp is right I'll usually get a chirp as the car moves foward and then I head towrads the beams. On a hotter track that time to the stick starts to happne takes a second or two longer, but the goal as I understand it for the Drag Radials is about 10*'s hotter on the tire than the track surface. When I have a buddy to help, we check it with one of those low price infrared heat temp sening guns. I haven't spent the big bucks ona real tire pyrometer.

What do you guys do?

[Bamfster]

700R4 trans here .... Hoosier Quick Pros or M/T ET Streets.

I pull through the water ... depending on the guy working the water box, I may or may not open the door to make sure I've passed the water. Most of the people that work the 'box at my home track put everyone outside of it.

Set the line lock, leave the trans in 3rd or "drive" and start the burnout when signaled to. Keep rpm to about 3500-4000 rpm, let the trans shift thru the gears. When I feel the wheels speed slow and see the tach drop, I roll out of the 'box as to not hook the tires to hard. I roll immediately to the pre-stage beam and wait for the other lane to light the pre-stage bulb as well before staging. No cleaning out the engine, no dry hops ....

[TC]

Bill I've always done it like you described and my trany guy told me pretty much the same thing as your trany guy told you, to do it in second......I kind of wish IndyShiftMan would chime in on this, I would be interested in what he'd have to say.....

Also if you have a 700r4 or a 4l60e, the 3-4 clutch pack is pretty weak, so unless you've upgraded to a Z-pac or the like, I'm not sure if you'd want to put that kind of abuse on those gears............

And another thing, coming out of 3rd gear on my car is somewhere around 135mph......I'm thinking that is a little excessive........Not to mention there is a thing called heating up the tires to much, which is going to cost you traction.......

[Scott Liggett]

Most every racer I know, goes around the water box on drag radials, backs in, rolls forward on to the up slope, gets the tires moving in first, then shifts to second, runs it at around 4000 rpm a particular time, then rolls easy out of the throttle. It seems it doesn't matter if it's an auto or a stick. Some guys with steep gears and manual valve bodies start out in second.

[stangbanger]

Bill I've always done it like you described and my trany guy told me pretty much the same thing as your trany guy told you, to do it in second......I kind of wish IndyShiftMan would chime in on this, I would be interested in what he'd have to say.....

Also if you have a 700r4 or a 4l60e, the 3-4 clutch pack is pretty weak, so unless you've upgraded to a Z-pac or the like, I'm not sure if you'd want to put that kind of abuse on those gears............

And another thing, coming out of 3rd gear on my car is somewhere around 135mph......I'm thinking that is a little excessive........Not to mention there is a thing called heating up the tires to much, which is going to cost you traction.......

HUH? just two days ago in the other burnout thread you said:

"I say the TH350, I know my Trany guy isn't afraid to put them behind big blocks.........

And on that note, when I picked up my trany I asked him what gear I should be in while doing a burnout at the track, his response was to start in first gear and then shift to second and do the burnout in second, though he said if you really need to you can shift into drive....."

Link http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...r-for-burnouts

[A/Fuel]

LOL, you're just going to open up a can of worms there.

Since I don't have a manual valve body in my camaro it's always in first, but with 5.13's I can put it in second pretty quickly. Then I just let it rip and let off the brake until I get close to the starting line and stop. It might be the totally wrong way to do it, but it's fun.

[Chad's Dad]

I pull through the water and stop about a foot past. Then set the line loc. Then put the T56 in 3rd gear and make sure the 2 step is in the burnout mode. (6500 RPM) Then mash the loud pedal and dump the clutch. I set my left outside mirror so I can see the left slick. After a few seconds I can see the smoke and feel the engine revs pull down. Then I put in the clutch and roll to the line. Then put T56 into 1st and set 2 step to launch mode. (6500-7000 RPMS)

[TC]

HUH? just two days ago in the other burnout thread you said:

"I say the TH350, I know my Trany guy isn't afraid to put them behind big blocks.........

And on that note, when I picked up my trany I asked him what gear I should be in while doing a burnout at the track, his response was to start in first gear and then shift to second and do the burnout in second, though he said if you really need to you can shift into drive....."

Link http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...r-for-burnouts

Not sure what your getting at.....He told me to start in first and shift into second and do the burnout in Second......His comment about shifting it into drive was more based towards grandstanding......You know like if you were in a burnout contest..........

[CDMBill]

I don't drive around the water box as the Hoosier DR's don't have any siping on the tread. When I had regular street tires on the fornt I did drive around so they wouldn't carry water to the line. It not always possibe at some tracks as the water box is more like a moat.

I forgot to mention the line lock which I do use in a convetional setup, that is mash the brakes hit the line lock button which holds pressure to the front brakes releasing the back. I've thought about the other method which uses the solenoid to prevent pressure to the back brakes when activated and you sue your left foot to hold the car. That is the ideal technique for long burnouts like the legendary Blackout Steve video.

I'm hopeful that this is an exchange reagrding otpimal racing technique not show boat 101. I'd like to hear more about PG techniques.

[milner351]

Bill - sorry - a bit of a sidebar on the AOD:

What valve body is in your AOD? I've heard you have to be careful about going into overdrive with the aod at higher throttle angles. I have very little experience with the AOD, but I'm using one with a traditional 3 speed shifter (hurst quarter stick)
in the ranger. Since the aod is a four speed with three shifter positions - (to hold 2nd you have to shift back to first), how do you keep it from going into OD after shifting into third, when you back off the throttle after going through the traps? OR - do you shift to N?
I thought the AOD was supposed to prevent the upshift to OD when at WOT - assuming proper TV cable adjustment of course.

[CDMBill]

My hope is that we'll have side bars on different transmissions.

My AOD was built by Lentech in Canada He uses a revised valve body archetecture to address some of the issues you mention plus the trans has a single larger input shaft as it does not have a lock up converter anymore, the OD still works fine however. Finally for racing there is an electrically engaged solenoid that locks out the OD function and ensures full line pressure. Without the switch on the trans wants to go on into OD after a burnout. The AOD has been great, four Drag Weeks without an issue and the .66 OD ratio makes the highway drives much better. The TV adjustment affects part throttle driving around town so that you get smooth easy upshifts and downshifts when street drving. They warn not put more than 400 ft/lbs into in in OD or it'll scatter. So I don't.

Lentech sells their valve bodies separatly as well as all the other fancy parts. The one peice input shaft is billit 300M. What they don't have is a combo full automatic with a transbrake which I'd really like to be able to run to get my pro-tree reaction times closer to competiitive.

[JeffMcKC]

Bill I was addressing the Question the guy asked on the turbo350. I dont know on yours,,,,,, or on doing it with a 2.25 rear gear that high gear gives you the wheel speed of a land speed car.

[Dignlif]

I have a reverse manual valve body 3 speed C4. I get past the water box, pump the brakes and hold the line lock (on my shifter) - when cleared I shift down to 2nd and mash the gas, at about 5000 I shift to 3rd. As the wheel speed slows, I let the line lock go and drift forward toward the beams. Let off the gas to stop the spinning and the car, shift up to Neutral, and then back into 1st to stage.

[CDMBill]

I have a reverse manual valve body 3 speed C4. I get past the water box, pump the brakes and hold the line lock (on my shifter) - when cleared I shift down to 2nd and mash the gas, at about 5000 I shift to 3rd. As the wheel speed slows, I let the line lock go and drift forward toward the beams. Let off the gas to stop the spinning and the car, shift up to Neutral, and then back into 1st to stage.

Rich, what tire and rear gear do you run? I know the tires are big, but how big? Do you have a GV unit?

[JeffMcKC]

I think the best set up for Drag Week and Street driving is a Shorty Glide with a GV behind it.