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MegaSquirt For Dummies......

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  • MegaSquirt For Dummies......

    Well since tomorrow I'll be receiving my MegaSquirt DIYPNP EEC-IV engine controller I figured I start up a thread about my adventures with it........I also figured I'd just put this in the general tech section since newbee's like me might not think to visit the efi section for such introductory information........

    I'm actually looking really forward to doing this, it's a whole new field of the automotive industry that I haven't fully begun to understand......which I always say, I love the quest for knowledge and I'm sure there is plenty to be had with learning to tune an efi system.......Not to mention the hands on assembly of the unit!!!!

    So the plan....., I have a 1988 ThunderBird Turbo Coupe, it has a 4 cylinder turbo motor with a 5 speed manual transmission, the MS kit I got utilizes the factory wiring harness so that the MS unit will plug right into it.....Pretty cool IMO and takes out a lot of headaches in having to wire stuff up........So back to the plan, I'll assemble the unit, test it, install it in the car, and get the car up and running to best that I can........Then after I feel I've got it all sorted out, I would like to install coil on plug ignition and go to sequential injection...........and then do a cam swap with a bigger turbo and intercooler.........

    Well first things first, lets get this puppy built!!!.........
    Last edited by TC; December 14, 2011, 09:11 PM.

  • #2
    Sub'd.

    Like I told you before, from what I've found looking into MS, I think you'll be more than capable.
    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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    • #3
      TC, is your kit based on a megasquirt-I or megasquit-II? we should get you familiar with the correct version of the mega manual.
      www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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      • #4
        Says the Spider to the Fly
        2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
        First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
        2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
        2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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        • #5
          google sez "At it's core, the DIYPNP is based on the MicroSquirt Module which is a MegaSquirt-II Processor based ECU on a credit card sized PCB"
          My fabulous web page

          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by squirrel View Post
            google sez "At it's core, the DIYPNP is based on the MicroSquirt Module which is a MegaSquirt-II Processor based ECU on a credit card sized PCB"
            I think the DIY-PNP is different than this kit, which is just a regular MS board with an "EEC-IV Adapter Board"

            It can get confusing, but no worries, plenty of folks here to help him out.
            www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
              I think the DIY-PNP is different than this kit, which is just a regular MS board with an "EEC-IV Adapter Board"

              It can get confusing, but no worries, plenty of folks here to help him out.
              oops, scratch that, I see they DO have the DIY-PNP set up for an EEC-IV computer now. My bad!! this should be relatively easy on Alex. The assembly part is a blast!
              www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
                TC, is your kit based on a megasquirt-I or megasquit-II? we should get you familiar with the correct version of the mega manual.

                It says this...

                Based on MS2/E Firmware Version 3.0.3 or later
                So I'm figuring it's a MS2, but the "E" I think stands for Extra, do you know what the Extra means??

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
                  oops, scratch that, I see they DO have the DIY-PNP set up for an EEC-IV computer now. My bad!! this should be relatively easy on Alex. The assembly part is a blast!
                  Easy is what I'm shooting for........

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TC View Post
                    It says this...



                    So I'm figuring it's a MS2, but the "E" I think stands for Extra, do you know what the Extra means??
                    You have it correct, "E" means it runs the "Extra" firmware. Firmware is the same thing as an Operating System on your PC. It's the operating software program that runs on the Motorola CPU inside the megasquirt. When you change tuning paramaters, like adjusting fuel quantity and spark timing, you're not actually "programming" anything, you are just changing vaciables. But, when you download the new Firmware (sounds like yours comes preloaded), then you are doing the same thing as replacing or upgrading the Operating System on a PC.

                    So the Firmware is like a Windows operating system: MS2-Extra might be like Windows 7, and MS2 BG (Bowling and Grippo - the BASE firmware that comes on a megasquirt 2 cpu) might be like Windows XP. The Extra firmware adds a boatload of enhanced options that don't come with the basic, B&G firmware. You definitely want to run the Extra code - all the race features are in there.
                    www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                    • #11
                      BBR MS Tech Tip: A good variable temp soldering iron/station with the wet sponge wipe is nice to have and affords good solder consistency.

                      I have this one:
                      Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                      1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                      1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                      1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                      1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                      1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                      • #12
                        Thanks DG for clarifying that!!!

                        And BBR, I was already eyeing one like that......It's adjustable from 5w-40w..........Figured it would be good enough since DG said to get a 25w one.......

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                        • #13
                          A variable temp iron is nice to have. BUt I think what's really important, is the wet sponge! good call BBR.
                          www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                          • #14
                            ANd while we're at it, really the only thing you need to know about soldering:

                            The goal is to complete the joint with a MINIMUM of time spent holding the iron to the components. What you want to avoid is having to sit there for more than a few seconds with the hot iron touching the component you're working with: you DON'T want to sit there for 10+ seconds with the iron burning up your capacitor, resistor, etc. Just try to get it done as quickly as possible.
                            www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
                              ANd while we're at it, really the only thing you need to know about soldering:

                              The goal is to complete the joint with a MINIMUM of time spent holding the iron to the components. What you want to avoid is having to sit there for more than a few seconds with the hot iron touching the component you're working with: you DON'T want to sit there for 10+ seconds with the iron burning up your capacitor, resistor, etc. Just try to get it done as quickly as possible.
                              I did take electronics in high school, and one of my neighbors growing up was a DeVry graduate and complete electronics guru, with the stuff I learned from the two, I'm fairly confident on the soldering part....... Also, use just enough solder to complete the connection, don't "gob" it on there, right??.....

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