Advice! - comp LSx rockers under stock valve covers = fail?

[>>>>head]

Need your advice: I tried to install Comp's Ultra Gold rocker arms (p/n 19024-16) this past weekend on the Goat/LS2. I picked these because both Comp and Summit advised me that they would fit stock heads. Well they fit the stock heads but not the stock valve covers. The rockers are hitting the valve cover oil baffle's rivets that attached to a rail on the top of the inside of the valve cover.

Options:
1) Return the Ultra Golds and have the stock rocker arms rebuilt with Comp's trunion upgrade
2) Install "extra thick valve cover gaskets" (such as Yella Terra's)
3) Install "valve cover spacers" (such as Taylor Vertex) - these are very pricey!
4) any other ideas?

if you have any experience with this problem, please respond

Thanks

[TC]

Need your advice: I tried to install Comp's Ultra Gold rocker arms (p/n 19024-16) this past weekend on the Goat/LS2. I picked these because both Comp and Summit advised me that they would fit stock heads. Well they fit the stock heads but not the stock valve covers. The rockers are hitting the valve cover oil baffle's rivets that attached to a rail on the top of the inside of the valve cover.

Options:
1) Return the Ultra Golds and have the stock rocker arms rebuilt with Comp's trunion upgrade
2) Install "extra thick valve cover gaskets" (such as Yella Terra's)
3) Install "valve cover spacers" (such as Taylor Vertex) - these are very pricey!
4) any other ideas?

if you have any experience with this problem, please respond

Thanks

Return the ultra golds and get the Pro Magnum's.........The Pro Magnum's are steel and thus a sleeker design.......... Though if all it'll take is a thicker VC gasket, that's probably your easiest way out.........

[SpiderGearsMan]

LS uses o ring lace gasket on the valve covers

it was the rockers tom ?

[>>>>head]

it was the rockers tom ?

Long story here Spidey. I suspect, as do you, that the racket was from the valvetrain but I wanted to avoid the initial approach of going after the lifters because of the surgery required.
1) We tried to install Harland Sharpe rockers ($400 - ouch) but they don't fit the stock LS2 head despite what Summit and HS said prior to ordering. At that time we also measured what the correct pushrod length should be (7.35) and figured the 7.4 pushrods were too long. Back to Summit the Harlands went.
2) Next - In the past the lifters were swapped from stock to LS7 lifters (long story) and the swap likely should have included shorter pushrods. The motor seemed noiser after this surgery. There is a .05 height difference between the lifters and we suspect the LS7lifters' plunger was getting pushed too low reducing oil flow. While swapping the pushrods, I looked at each stock rocker arm. For most of them, there seemed to be too much play in the trunions. Also seemed to be some marks where the rockers meet valve stems - 108,000 miles. After we buttoned her up, the rattle was still there but the engine's "sewing machine" sound seems lower.
3) Next - Tried to install Comp's rockers ($500 - ouch). Went with Comp due to the superior trunions versus stock and the roller tips for the scored valve stems. I confirmed with both Comp and Summit that they would fit the stock LS2 head before I ordered them. Well the Comp's fit the head but not the valve cover. When running the engine there was a "hollow" rattle sound. After pulling off the valve cover we could see where the Comp rocker body that holds the pushrod was hitting the oil baffle on the underside of the cover.

So the original rockers are back on and I am trying to figure out what to do?

[CDMBill]

Can you clarify what you mean when you say 'scored valve stems'? Badly worn valve tips will kill your expesive new rockers way before theri time. That may help with the diagnosis although at 108,000 miles lots of stuff gets worn out. If the the change in lifters and pushrod height affected valve train geometry you may being to see a different witness mark on the valve tip. Can the oil baffle be bent, ground on or other wise modified to clear the new rockers. I don't see huge downside to that kind of modification.

[SpiderGearsMan]

you must check the valve installed height and the tips ....
the LS7 has titanium valves with lash caps

[>>>>head]

Can you clarify what you mean when you say 'scored valve stems'? Badly worn valve tips will kill your expesive new rockers way before theri time. That may help with the diagnosis although at 108,000 miles lots of stuff gets worn out. If the the change in lifters and pushrod height affected valve train geometry you may being to see a different witness mark on the valve tip. Can the oil baffle be bent, ground on or other wise modified to clear the new rockers. I don't see huge downside to that kind of modification.

Bill, 'scored valve stems' may have been overly descriptive but I could clearly see 'wear marks' on the top of certain valve stem tips (and my mechanical knowledge/experience is below basic). This car is my DD and I am just trying to fix what I think are past mistakes which are creating a 'rattling' sound from the valve train. I am inclined to try the extra thick valve cover gaskets with the Comp rockers as the Comps only appear to be hitting the rivets where the oil baffle attaches to a rail on the inside of the valve cover (in other words the full top side of the rocker body was not hitting the baffle).

[>>>>head]

Update - 2 weeks ago installed valve cover spacers (UMI brand, smaller fabricator/manufacturer in eastern PA) along with the Comp rockers.

Good news - Comp rockers no longer hit valve covers' oil baffles and there are no leaks from the spacers.

Bad news - the rattling sound from valve train is still there. Which probably means bad lifter(s)? Also for the last year or so the Goat has had inconsistent oil pressure at idle - ranges from 35/40 psi (normal) to 15/20 and occasionally lower (scary when sitting in traffic on the way home from work!). I suspect past mistakes include debris falling in the oil passages with some trapped in the oil pump's pressure relief valve causing the valve to stick open.

I think the next step is finding an engine rebuilder with LS motor experience. She now has over 111,000 miles so the timing might not be 100% premature. If any of you can recommend a rebuilder with a zip code in the North Jersey/NYC area, I'd be much obliged.

[1956NY150]

I would suggess a new engine or a rebuilt from a shop who specializes in LS engines (or new junk yard low mileage motor)
Have your local guy change out engine
sell the old motor
i KNOW this is the cheapest way out
bob