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  • Roll Bar and Chassis Paint...Thoughts?

    So I am painting my roll cage, some of it is old and already painted and most of it is new pipe. I am going with a satin black finish and I am talking spray-bomb, rattle can epoxy paint. What have you had good luck with? Looking for durability against scratches and nicks mostly. I was looking at these...

    http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/rollbarchassis/

    and the more expensive...

    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-chassis-b...sol-14-oz.html

    or the way more expensive...

    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-extreme-c...sol-14-oz.html

    Any guesses as to how many cans needed for about 50ft of tubing (12pt cage)? I was thinking 5 cans and having extra for the inevitable touch-ups down the road.
    Last edited by Joe Grippo; March 7, 2012, 09:13 AM. Reason: revised - added epoxy description
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  • #2
    Krylon from walmart?

    Whatever you use, good prep helps. sand with 220-400 grit, clean and degrease well
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    • #3
      Scotch bright and lacquer thinner wipe down ....

      I'm cheap! ... I like ACE hardware's satin black, plus it comes in oversized cans (22 oz I think). 3 to 4 I think would do the trick.
      Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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      • #4
        Rustoleom appliance epoxy paint.
        I'm still learning

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bamfster View Post
          Scotch bright and lacquer thinner wipe down.....
          That's the prep plan!
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          • #6
            I'm usually cheap, but a friend of mine turned me on to the Eastwood "diamond clear" paint for wheels, engine parts, etc....

            I've probably gotten 6 intake manifolds worth out of one $15 can.... it sounds crazy to spend $15 on a spray can of paint, but this stuff really works. It keeps a sand blasted aluminum intake clean and easy to clean for a long time.

            If the quality of the eastwood chassis paint is like that clear, it may be worth the extra money.
            There's always something new to learn.

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            • #7
              Epoxy paint will definitely stand up. There was a recent thread on Corner-Carvers about this, many guys reported success using epoxy paint on roll bars and cages, as well as engine bays, etc.


              cheers
              Ed N.
              Ed Nicholson - Caledon Ontario - a bit NW of Toronto
              07 Mustang GT with some stuff
              88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe 5-speed

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              • #8
                Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                I'm usually cheap, but a friend of mine turned me on to the Eastwood "diamond clear" paint for wheels, engine parts, etc....

                I've probably gotten 6 intake manifolds worth out of one $15 can.... it sounds crazy to spend $15 on a spray can of paint, but this stuff really works. It keeps a sand blasted aluminum intake clean and easy to clean for a long time.

                If the quality of the eastwood chassis paint is like that clear, it may be worth the extra money.
                Yup. I used that on an intake before and you are following my line of thinking on the quality of the Eastwood stuff.
                And they are local to me...

                I was thinking of useing something that hopefully was a step up from regular Krylon type paint...
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by fast Ed View Post
                  Epoxy paint will definitely stand up. There was a recent thread on Corner-Carvers about this, many guys reported success using epoxy paint on roll bars and cages, as well as engine bays, etc.


                  cheers
                  Ed N.
                  Right. The VHT and Eastwood stuff is epoxy paint and I have also heard it stands up well...
                  Last edited by Joe Grippo; March 7, 2012, 09:15 AM.
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                  • #10
                    we have been useing Rustolem hammer finish in the can(brush on) but I don't think this will help lol. Good prep I use dupli color for a lot of stuff I want to look good and hold up.

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                    • #11
                      POR sells a cleaner called AP-120 that has really helped with getting good, longer lasting paint jobs form rattle cans. I use a lot of the Krylon satin high heat black these days.

                      I ahve no good advice on paint as the cheapie stuff I've used to touch up my cage hasn't held up well. With the convertable I was able to fab the cage then have it powdercoated and then weld it in.
                      Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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                      • #12
                        I really like VHT's Roll bar paint. Its an epoxy and goes on well. Dries reasonably fast. You can get it at the chain parts stores for $8.00 a can. Yannick uses it on all his cage and chassis mods. I used it on the floor board fix in my Caprice.
                        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Joe Grippo View Post
                          Yup. I used that on an intake before and you are following my line of thinking on the quality of the Eastwood stuff.
                          And they are local to me...

                          I was thinking of useing something that hopefully was a step up from regular Krylon type paint...
                          You may laugh, but i have been using John Deer Blitz Back. I used it on my Monte Carlo's and now my 66 Impala. Any J. Deer supplier has it, also comes in high Gloss and holds up to most anything.
                          Why dance when you can rock and roll?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                            I really like VHT's Roll bar paint. Its an epoxy and goes on well. Dries reasonably fast. You can get it at the chain parts stores for $8.00 a can. Yannick uses it on all his cage and chassis mods. I used it on the floor board fix in my Caprice.
                            This stuff holds up well
                            2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
                            First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
                            2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
                            2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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                            • #15
                              What do I know? My cage is still naked. I have a couple of welds to finish (gotta pull the windshield that needs resealing anyhow) and then sand a little and paint.

                              Keith Turk recommends brush-on Rustoleum. Easy to apply and as important, easy to touch up. Many folks find that they need to add a bar or otherwise modify the cage and it's nice to be able to spiff it up easily. I suggest that you rethink the black, too. At Maxton I've seen MANY black roll bars that are too hot to touch from being in the sun. Not too bad if you're wearing a race suit but murder in a T-shirt and shorts - and hard on the tech guys as they tighten you in the car. I'm probably going with off-white.

                              Dan
                              Last edited by DanStokes; March 8, 2012, 01:51 PM.

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