Cam break in machine - cam king / cam research experiences?

[Beagle]

I'm considering having a cam run in on this machine to do a "break in" before putting it in. I know it's a 20.00 cam and a 60.00 service. I wouldn't be able to replace the cam for anywhere near that and certainly not all the bearings, gaskets, and whatever else should the cam wipe itself.

I'm wondering if anyone here has used these guys

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/

and if so what their experience was? I mean seriously, with a name like CamKing 2000, it has to be good? Right?

Flat tappet cam, "aggressive" ramp rates. Seems like a decent bet / investment? I don't want to change springs once the heads are on.

[JeffMcKC]

Big block fords are not known for flatting cams they have a nice lobe on them, use a good break in lube and break in oil and start it and run it up dont jack with adjusting anything till its ran in. I would think you would be fine.

[milner351]

I've used them before and will probably go to them when it's time to cam the 428 FE.... it's $60 worth of insurance.... they also sell the lifters with the EPDM oiling hole in the face, another thing to consider, but as Jeff mentioned - with a mildish cam you may not end up running for a long time anyway - just make sure your carb and distributor, cooling system are in good shape before you fire it the first time - then get the rpms up to 2000 - 2500 for 20 minutes, and change the oil and filter...... don't forget the zddp additives.

[Huskinhano]

FYI Howard racing cams have an option of free life time replacement guarantee on some of their cams. Even if it's totally your fault, like dropping it on a concrete floor breaking into a zillion pieces, they'll replace it free no questions asked.

[Beagle]

I thought about this a lot over the last couple of years. 15 amp 3600 rpm electric motor driving a 2:1 pulley, no plugs, light springs, 1 ring on loose pistons. Basically, build in a break in mule.

I'm still torn. I like the mule idea because it is the engine it will run in. I question a break-in machine sometimes, everything has to be exaclty right for it to mimic your final destination. It is a very mild cam, but I worry about shtuff I can't control. Meh. Mild solid roller!

This engine is destined for a truck in the long run. It's days of light cars and light loads are few. I'd prefer it not need to come back apart for 50k or more. Too many magazines telling me it's gonna wipe itself out if I don't buy a 1000.00 roller setup, I think I'm getting paranoid. lol. It's not like it's got a ton of spring on it, I think the box I have says 987-16 , can't remember. Should be 330 open, 110 closed or something like that.

Break in oils seem like a good idea. Maybe the cam gods will smile? To hell with it, let's find out!

[Deaf Bob]

Why worry so much? Gonna give yerself an ulcer...
Here is a true story to make you feel better....
Guy who derbys "refreshes" his motors every so often...
He does not plastigage
He does not check ring end gaps
He does not break in his cams...
He just puts the motors together and goes derbying...
Doesn't do too bad either.. Was points leader last year...

We do all that stuff and were 2nd cuz he went to one more show than us..
We had one more first than him too..

Morale?: don't sweat too hard.. Just do what you are supposedto and all SHOULD be fine...
If not....you don't know me...

[CDMBill]

I may be behind on some of the background here is this a completely fresh motor or just a cam change. Assuming the first, Jeff is right on about proven ignition components set static to be close and a known good carb with adequate fuel supply. While the flat tappet cam break in is important so are the rings etc. liberally coat the lobes and the lifters with the sticky break in lube, add break in oil, I like Lucas break in oil these days as it has all the special ingredients and is pretty reasonably priced. Fire it up 20 minutes of 2000 rpm+, I like to move it around a little. Shut off, cut open filter, check. New filter and second round of break in oil. Do all your initial driving and testing as you intend to drive it, cut open filter, check, change to your permanent oil and filter. Live happily ever after.

[BBR]

Beags to build a cam break-in mechanism, you would not need to spin the crank.

Me? I'd throw it together and run it.

[Hemi Joel]

It would seem to me that the cam and lifters would have to be broke in on the block you will be running them in. Lifter bore position and angle can vary from block to block due to machining inaccuracies. So the wear pattern will change from block to block.

[TheSilverBuick]

It would seem to me that the cam and lifters would have to be broke in on the block you will be running them in. Lifter bore position and angle can vary from block to block due to machining inaccuracies. So the wear pattern will change from block to block.

Hmm, good point. There are some crazy core shift pictures on the V8Buick forum on just Buick engine that would certainly effect where a lifter is riding on the cam. I'm sure all manufactures of the era have the same "loose" tolerances.