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  • struts

    I did work on kc135 aircraft..big pressures, serious procedure for the struts.

    I have a hack job that needs to take place, and cars and parts tell us jack squat.

    I found my little subaru likes to not just break the little rod internal to the strut to make annoying rides..more annoying.

    I have an oem one with a physical steel blowout the bottom, (WTF?!) and a kyb gr-2 with the thicker part of rod broken internally.

    yes, breaking these at the wrong time is life and death..like an airplane.

    my quest led me to toyota...4runner front struts. Big weight difference.

    How do I find exactly what dampens what at what pressures? should I care?

    I am grabbing a pair of them to throw in the old densified welded wagons back end.

    curious if anyone knows how to get more info, or is it always just try and err later. bigger is always better, I don't mean changing heights, the yota strut fits nearly perfect...just bigger duty in the tube.
    Last edited by Barry Donovan; May 21, 2012, 08:54 PM.
    Previously boxer3main
    the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

  • #2
    Adjustables are generally a restriction or an orfice change..
    Weight wise, they are pretty close? With that in mind.. I'd just bolt em in and do the "best school there is" Trial and Error and Error..
    Seems to me, lighter viehcles have smaller orfices.. Or it is a paradox and has larger...
    Good luck and post results...

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
      Adjustables are generally a restriction or an orfice change..
      Weight wise, they are pretty close? With that in mind.. I'd just bolt em in and do the "best school there is" Trial and Error and Error..
      Seems to me, lighter viehcles have smaller orfices.. Or it is a paradox and has larger...
      Good luck and post results...
      will do. that is what I was wondering too, the dampen strength.
      I watched a vid after posting, a guy changing the front strut in the 4 runner on you tube.
      proportionally,it is a correct appearance for a wagon with 500 pounds supposed to to be added in stuff.

      hefty. I then spotted the springs for 4 runner, and that is where I figure the spring is the damper as much as the strut. Funny enough, the 4 runner strut on a sube has a straight spring, no shrunken ends to fit. (it looks more real to see them with a subaru spring on top of them).

      there is a 181 foot pound version of my tin can, I had to decipher the path to stronger stuff. Strut is the last thing to go, the back ones. the sheer pin on the crank pulley was just one of the things to figure out (they spin the pulleys off beyond 140 foot pounds)..and the wheels, and steel. the runt version of these can go to midget hell.
      Previously boxer3main
      the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

      Comment


      • #4
        some info..
        looking struts compressed length etc.
        the oe subaru is a retarded problem. its got more rod out of the strut than in.

        I wanted to step up the game a little, not only a bigger strut..but one that at least adds someting related to weight or hauling.
        the cheap vote goes to kyb again:
        Click image for larger version

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        these are monomax, do something for hauling. the car is hauling itself today, no flexible tinny games anymore. That alone killed the strut. damn that nitrogen getting out. I also found ranchos with an 18mm rod..but I won't doing baja witha 84hp trucker wagon.

        it can haul its own engine, fully dressed (265 pounds) and all my tools, and I always have more than that if hauling an engine. spare clutch or something. the spring has more rate than the front of a mustang, further evidence they did not think the strut enough. I never bottom springs..in fact I want less rod out of the strut. the more I analyze, the more the 4runner hack I found is an exact match.

        I still don't know brands..
        Last edited by Barry Donovan; May 23, 2012, 05:57 AM.
        Previously boxer3main
        the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

        Comment


        • #5
          just put in for some "sensen" not the best for a 4 runner, but the sube is not in the same weight realm, this purpose is a physics conquer. should be plenty. 4lo, and the way a boxer dishes it out like a tractor...and the weight of 15 inch tread on the other side of the signal, no longer 13 inch.

          in fact, my decision to go ahead with this was today at the car wash. looking at back end of car, cambered, wide..tough as freaking brick. the tread is 9.5 inches wide in a 60 inch wide car. the work is definitely tire/wheel side more than the car.

          I also noted "sensen" version being the cheapest has the dreaded seals I avoid, but with a metal dust cover, should be alright.

          if you are an old sube builder reading this, the rear crossmember I have is the "up to 12/86", the later loyale does the stumpy struts just fine, the first gen I have does not. I don't even know if they would fit a loyale proper.

          the jacked up subes by factory can do this, 1985-1993. just have to figure it out on your own. this does get dangered if not correct, the old subes used a gained rear wheel turn by a few degrees as travel squats, rally stuff I presume (impreza early years does this too)

          my own needs the bigger to be normal. go at it your own risk.

          an easy way to tell, if the car has rear camber, jacked all the way up, you got the universal rx/gl/dl rear end. big struts welcome.
          thanks to loyale27turbo, shared his version of fixing the only mismatched struts in history I have encountered.
          another really bizarre thing for me local? ordering 4wd struts gets me 2wd height..twice in a row.
          bad source? northern conspiracy? there is a dealer story to tell no doubt.
          Click image for larger version

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          I not only never got the 4wd height (where srping sits on strut, mine are mounted too low,) the little strut went with it. double negative. explains 4 pounds of mig wire in the rear end. An interesting note..he lives near equator, breaks the top of strut...local, they blow out the bottom. I bet the engineers don't need to strain the pea sized brain over that one physic, never minding the other simple facts that go with this stuff..

          if this is not enough, there is an 18mm rancho "aircraft landing gear" strut awaiting.
          Last edited by Barry Donovan; June 1, 2012, 07:50 AM.
          Previously boxer3main
          the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

          Comment


          • #6
            Any chance that your wheel and tire/axle half shaft (not sure which you have) tried to to occupy a space shorter than the fully compressed strut? Meaning is there some kind of upward mechanical travel limiter, bump stop etc. or is the strut your compression travel limiter?
            Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by CDMBill View Post
              Any chance that your wheel and tire/axle half shaft (not sure which you have) tried to to occupy a space shorter than the fully compressed strut? Meaning is there some kind of upward mechanical travel limiter, bump stop etc. or is the strut your compression travel limiter?
              as of now, spring would have to compress entirely, still plenty of room. tire right up in the well.
              there are models of this same car that can bury a 13 inch to rubbing, the one I am working is not in that realm.

              I am looking forward to the thought of a bump stop, strut side, versus nothing at all.(it would have to use spring prior to this)
              that was my first indicator this little suby is the tractor trailer version. No bottom out ever.
              funny enough, no sway bar either..I took this down the highway a few years ago (recorded it) broken crossmember and freighted...85 mph with a little wiggle.

              remnants of B-rally insanity? hard telling. I only guessed it was.

              another old factor making new subes an asshole.

              just kidding. I have watched pros analyze it via the net for ten years. I'd rather the two bars like a 60s coil spring pickup, or the old bimmer 2002. It took me a long time to come to that conclusion.

              there really is ony one right setting..after all the babble..only one setting gets it.

              steel fails like everything eventually. weld it and go again. At least it is weldable.

              Click image for larger version

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              this was also the facts getting me to another strut. as factory up front, the strut is taller than the other subes, and some other tricks by oem I could not identify, even as the welder. the exhaust hung real low strangely...engine must sitting different, while suspension sits way up.
              anyway, on oem rear strut replace, I still could not let oem front sit where they put it..car looks like a droopy ass. A mistake in the back struts from day one. Right now I have front springs squatted nearly 4 inches to align with 4wd back struts. 2wd struts..this car would look lke a freighted..well..suby.

              I look forward to letting this sit up like a little truck.

              85-87 seems to be the culprit, after 12/86 it is a different setup.
              Last edited by Barry Donovan; June 1, 2012, 12:46 PM.
              Previously boxer3main
              the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

              Comment


              • #8
                hockey puck

                back end needing to gain 3 inches to be normal..

                the strut looks like it is a gain of a couple but not sure. Awaiting delivery..
                if america got the struts loyale27turbo did..a few more of these would be on the road.

                anyway, found a hockey puck is 3 inchs o.d

                spring can be jacked/spaced with those.
                nhl approved, 1.29 a piece.


                a peculiar design this one.

                being maine, just one ride out can see a 20 year newer sube with positive front camber hillbilly looking lift. I am feeling confident in my quest.

                the reason I share this here, it was too odd to even gain a reality at forums claiming to know this stuff.

                I did find some white pearl iridescent under the current paint, that means subaru changed it along the way. the sticker for current paint code was still on the car. All subaru, nobody else. Someone even claimed it was primer. No. it is not. Upon digging about this, they had a short run of jacked up wilderness subies, some were for olympic skiers. of course they were white and stripes. This very well may have been on the same line and shipped not quite right.

                the front end crossmember is the real machining to measure, and it is odd, designed for an engine sitting very low to keep suspension high..I have had 3 of these. This is the only one that needed a custom header to tuck. It needs a theory as to why the odd rarity, and that was a good one.

                will share shots of this sitting normal. it may even be taller than a modern outback.
                Last edited by Barry Donovan; June 4, 2012, 06:50 PM.
                Previously boxer3main
                the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Obviously it was modified sometime in it's past...

                  I love leaf springs and coils too.. Shocks to dampen...
                  Have no experience with struts...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                    Obviously it was modified sometime in it's past...

                    I love leaf springs and coils too.. Shocks to dampen...
                    Have no experience with struts...
                    the years of subaru I am playing with, it is comical. the factory did the modding. this one was not outrageous, but close.

                    got one strut in, the gain would have been 2 inches or more if i did not take one rubber washer out (I could not wait to take that out of place extra).


                    Click image for larger version

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                    gained about an inch and 1/2 hard, non pretentious gain of lift. Alot beefier as one might guess from photo..and gained a few degrees towards positive camber (it was a bit to "too bimmer" if you know what I mean), and lastly the fender gap matches the front.
                    the 205/60/15 almost look stumped, like little wheel tire combo. Right where I want it. I also second guessed an extra spring seat needed, was not necessary. 3 inches to bottom out, strut only has 4.3 anyway. not meant to be squishy squashy, exactly what I am after. this silly car is supposed to take the little 200 pound tongue and 2000 pound trailer. All was willing but rear suspension. All good to go.
                    Last edited by Barry Donovan; June 5, 2012, 02:05 PM.
                    Previously boxer3main
                    the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      complete


                      this is more like a dual range AWD. fender gaps the same, and it is a hard setting. Terrain cannot make a pretentious appearance. A quick run, found a speed bump at a hospital. Very much what I wanted. Ready for trailer hitch. All the chores just to look normal in a photo. haha. It actually handles even more like a sports car..not that 90hp needs that for much. the winter will be interesting.

                      no more animal 12 inches of travel on the droopy pants back end.


                      doesn't look like I did anything abnormal. That is the silly goal.
                      Previously boxer3main
                      the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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                      • #12
                        Looks like you nailed it! Looks good stance wise..

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                          Looks like you nailed it! Looks good stance wise..
                          yep.
                          this car was so bad (like my other two of this model), I knew to keep it dropping squishy until sure of steel. Welded the hell out of it in the past 3 years.
                          funny enough, I brought it up to their own specs. I have never seen one in their own specs, because they suck.

                          anyway, glad i got it done. driving around is a slight less stiff than a 3/4 ton truck...just right. No swaying, no wondering..just drive.

                          and no back bone snapper anymore either.

                          with this done I am hoping for a sale to feed an american project. It was like I was at war with a kamikaze.
                          Previously boxer3main
                          the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            changed body

                            a whiff of fuel from an old sube with no leaks..can only mean one thing. the body moved the long way, or a signal changed. of course, the little brick I made would have to be the latter excuse. jacked at least 3 inches beyond the saggy ass swaying weirdo it was…and it still looks just right. fender gaps the same all the way around the car. A ride on maine back roads today, I have not done any length of, revealed I did get a big change. I got one creak out of the right rear…the most welded part of this car. Although, that is not easy to determine. I went wild with the mig at 36 pounds of wire gone throughout the chassis. I wondered how that went together so quietly back there. It was the stupid squashy rear oem struts not letting a strong line happen. The right rear wheel well is larger, and was completely destroyed. I even built up the strut mount, all the factory pinches from one arch root to the other. subframe skins upgraded to thicker (the whole car), etc. it is nice to have struts holding up this little beast in the square framing I made.
                            This should be the summer to sale. the facts put it past the value of a 356 speedster…not sure how to deal with that.
                            the strut madness went on for so long I forgot what I was waiting for.

                            it is a real pleasure to drive. I got this "steel butt" feeling the rear end is going to last for 50 freakin years getting this geometry correct.


                            struts does a body good.
                            Last edited by Barry Donovan; June 11, 2012, 02:16 PM.
                            Previously boxer3main
                            the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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