alternator question

[Barry Donovan]

this must be simple to somebody.

symptoms:
gauge climbs nearly to 18v at 3k rpm and beyond
gauge stays above twelve but the little charge light on the dash is almost on..not on all the way at an idle.

belts tight, connections good.

accepts load at idle, charge light almost goes out entirely.
volt regulator is doing something. charge light comes on not all the way, after shutting things off.

swap alternator or give this a chance. it does get warm, alot more amps than previous alternator.

goofy volt regulation, but working.

smack the alternator with a hammer?

very dynamical..seems to tell me not to just swap it.. but drive along trip or something.

fresh clean brushes at the slip rings.

[CDMBill]

Internal or external regulator?

[Barry Donovan]

Internal or external regulator?

internal.

I have finally given up. this is alt #4 and I made 3 of them in my own way. I still have one that works..but something is so damn slow it kills the build.

I have since browsed around to find which other ricer matches it...
a 9k rpm rotary alternator fit the bill. Even has the same plugs as my 87 subaru.


cn you imagine a oem alt ready for a 2.3 to 1 rotation?

that is a 20,000 rpm alternator..(and my sube gets damn close to 9k.)
no fanblades either.

10 more amps to boot.

(if you are reading this in doubt, I am aware of the .25 inch grind on two of the ears)

1/8th inch off each of the two bottom ears, bolts right in.

[SuperBuickGuy]

sounds more like a regulator problem then an alternator problem

[Barry Donovan]

sounds more like a regulator problem then an alternator problem

a permament factory one.

I found the other modern (even early 80s, late 70s) compact attempts have fins for rectify, a more robust in the compact.
this one I am running.. I should take it aprt one more time and give photos.

something just way way too primitive. Something hugely entirely missing even when it is exactly correct.Can't quite explain myself, I'd need to be the engineer who built it...as me and most asian stuff goes. if not decipherable, scrap it.

I found I can step up to late 80s, several of them. they look normal, and I can simply refer to my own memory of them in daily life. Just not subrus version.

this subaru play with -12v. that is insanity..crazy as a 486pc.I think even the alt ended up in their butt first with a volt meter mentality.

I get it set to go as forward as a gm now.. time to get a normal charge.

edit:
This morning got a plug at the alternator change, tighter fit.
did nothing...but noticed the cold start is alot liverlier. maybe it is a 60amp where a 55 was, and battery has to challenge until it is ready.
that is something I remember froma dead cell. drove alternator crazy.

I still don't lke it..the rectify part. all hidden or something, even the fron of the alternator gets hot. all quiet.

I'll just drive until it explodes or whatever is next.


I made a clean alternator.

[Beagle]

mount a Delco Remy 1 wire, stop f*ing around? I went through this crap years ago with bad grounds, found god. Clean at least 1 good engine to frame ground. 1 good ground from your DC power storage thingy. Anything computer controlled - really - just about any of them will get you a fat new alternator and you don't have to sweat it any more. I've run junk that would stay charged with 45a alternator... but it doesn't make sense if you're wanting ignition juice, stereo juice, light juice, any kind of juice? I'd check on an EFI cheap as you can find junkyard deal. I preferred the one wire AC stuff (delco) for simplicity. I changed a few diode trio's in my day but they hold UP.

13.8 at the battery is what I like to see...

[Barry Donovan]

mount a Delco Remy 1 wire, stop f*ing around? I went through this crap years ago with bad grounds, found god. Clean at least 1 good engine to frame ground. 1 good ground from your DC power storage thingy. Anything computer controlled - really - just about any of them will get you a fat new alternator and you don't have to sweat it any more. I've run junk that would stay charged with 45a alternator... but it doesn't make sense if you're wanting ignition juice, stereo juice, light juice, any kind of juice? I'd check on an EFI cheap as you can find junkyard deal. I preferred the one wire AC stuff (delco) for simplicity. I changed a few diode trio's in my day but they hold UP.

13.8 at the battery is what I like to see...

as it turns out, there is no -12v or strangeness. got a dummy light, and charge gauge...and the bouncing is new brushes (I swapped some very hard old brushes..for the same age). the fact that it is dynamical, .. I actually made it that good. Normal ones don't stay dynamical. they build most of it, but it was like a lack of quality assurance before shipping. I ended up with three weird ones, mostly good, but needed my help.

I found two pairs of brushes for ten bucks, and they have a brand name. will have this going sweet in no time...a turning point was finding the volt regulator for 6 bucks, needs a soldering guru, no problem. the stator, rotor, rectifier is so primitive and simple..many decades go by.

the 60 amps comes from proper setup. 55 must be the leeway for error written. (they are all the same)
to go one generation older, at 50 amp..no ecu allowed. power is refined where I am at and years after this model (most of these cars had ecu and injection)

...and the monojet is a genius. I am not swapping for that draft of classic runtime anytime.