so how much pressure would you say its safe to pump the coolent system up to? I would hate to blow out a good gasket!
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The hand pump will take you a little higher than your radiator cap will blow to the overflow tank, so 15-20 pounds tops. You want to be able to regulate the pressure to see if it holds at 15 pounds because any leak, especially a cold block that has not expanded will start losing pressure right away. You need a gauge to see what air you are losing. so 15 psi thru a regulator, close the valve so you dont lose air thru the regulator and see if pressure drops.Last edited by anotheridiot; July 23, 2013, 10:56 AM.
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The radiator is old and has a seeping hole at the bottom. I have a cooling system pressure tester but because of the seepage I haven't tried to pressurize the system.
compression test
1 -- 135
2 -- 135
3 -- 130
4 -- 140
5 -- 135
6 -- 140
7 -- 130
8 -- 135
I didn't annotate the vacuum reading but iirc it was in the 19-22 area and steady.
And to clarify spewing, let's say that translates to what happens at the geyser park in Yellowstone. The coolant came out of the radiator and hit the garage wall, up high, and the only other time I have seen that action is when a head was cracked. In my experience a head gasket between cylinders would cause adjacent cylinders to be low or one would be lower than the rest if the gasket was leaking into the coolant passages or to the oil return/crankcase.Last edited by 68scott385; July 23, 2013, 11:21 AM.
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Originally posted by anotheridiot View PostI can see you have mcgyver in you...
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Originally posted by 68scott385 View PostThe radiator is old and has a seeping hole at the bottom. I have a cooling system pressure tester but because of the seepage I haven't tried to pressurize the system.
compression test
1 -- 135
2 -- 135
3 -- 130
4 -- 140
5 -- 135
6 -- 140
7 -- 130
8 -- 135
I didn't annotate the vacuum reading but iirc it was in the 19-22 area and steady.
And to clarify spewing, let's say that translates to what happens at the geyser park in Yellowstone. The coolant came out of the radiator and hit the garage wall, up high, and the only other time I have seen that action is when a head was cracked. In my experience a head gasket between cylinders would cause adjacent cylinders to be low or one would be lower than the rest if the gasket was leaking into the coolant passages or to the oil return/crankcase.
As for spewing.. Never saw that, have seen the water in the radiator bubble..
Every motor is different, even with same brands
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostDunno why most guys jump into the " cracked head" or headgasket band wagon..
Yes it is possible the head cracks.. But in 25 years of getting motors so hot they don't run no more, I've seen one cracked head and am not sure it was cracked to begin with..
99.9% it's head gasket or warped head
A buddy had a leaky radiator in his 455 Olds powered FSjeep.. He claims he trained it to run without water...lol drove it several years like that..
Edit: nice run stand!!
Next day, he was shooting antifreeze out of his tail pipes. One head was warped so bad you could stick a screwdriver between the block and head in three places. The other head was cracked in 42 places before we gave up counting. No, he didn't have a temp gauge.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostMy main gearhead buddy in HS had a 75 Ford Elite that he built up a 302 to put in. But, it wouldn't beat my 71 Impala sedan with a mostly stock sbc 400. So, he borrowed a plate nitrous setup from someone. Obviously, he beat my car real good that night. Then we cruised the whole night and emptied the bottle twice.
Next day, he was shooting antifreeze out of his tail pipes. One head was warped so bad you could stick a screwdriver between the block and head in three places. The other head was cracked in 42 places before we gave up counting. No, he didn't have a temp gauge.
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I'm thinking it near melted the exhaust valves on that side. Most of the cracks we saw without magging originated from the exhaust valve seat. Many went seat to seat. I'm pretty sure cylinder pressure was way up there too and contributed to warping on the other side. Bob got the setup without any of the other jet pills, so he just ran the engine with the 250 shot. It was stupid fun while it lasted.Last edited by Scott Liggett; July 26, 2013, 11:07 AM.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Originally posted by SpiderGearsMan View Postwhy olds ?
If you guys like long, agonizing, painful learning experiences, say the word and I'll give you the 18 month run down on what is tentatively being called the Blue Turd(le).Last edited by 68scott385; July 26, 2013, 07:44 PM.
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Simply, Olds small/big blocks do not exist..it is all one physical size.. Internally...different..
Badge it as a 350.. Only those who know to look under the head at the driver side front cylinder on the block will see it's true size..
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostSimply, Olds small/big blocks do not exist..it is all one physical size..
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This is from a Marlan Davis article in the March 1986 Hot Rod page 54.
Most of the article in readable form...
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb....php?f=23&t=19Last edited by 68scott385; May 29, 2014, 09:54 PM.
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Well Spidey, you asked for it so here it goes.
I needed a family hauler, not some cookie-cutter mini-van, micro-bus, cross-over crap that everyone runs around in. I found an '88 Caprice wagon in real good shape, at least the body is. For some reason, probably more to do with supply depletion than anything else, GM chose to use the 307 Olds motor in these cars. The 307 Olds was put in most other large B-body platforms of the day except the Caprice coupes & sedans.
Not really wanting a hot rod look or feel from the car I thought it would be subtle to put a 455 in place of the 307 since most on-lookers don't know the difference anyway and if it winds up be a sleepy looking wagon with a surprise, so be it.
When I started this thread I was looking for a motor to replace the 307. At the time I was willing to take almost anything that would be usable and better than a 307 Olds. After three or four months of patiently watching eBay and lurking the local wrecking yards I found what I was looking for, "a rebuildable, and relatively unmolested, Oldsmobile motor."
I had hoped that the engine and transmission would both last for a year or two so I could have time to get decent replacements for them. I found a warmed up Grand National transmission that the builder wasn't fully compensated for his efforts and the customer needed to unload. The builder is going to warranty the transmission and says it is built to hold 600hp. That's equivalent to a "level 3" from BowTie Overdrives with a price I couldn't pass up.
There has been unforeseen pitfalls along the way and in the quest to have a dependable driver have put off building an engine as long as possible. Yes it would be cheaper to throw a small block Chevy at it because, well, doesn't everyone have three of those sitting around with nothing to do? I just thought it would be something different that than expected.
So here I am a year later and the 307 has given up the ghost and the 455 will get a lot of attention in the coming week or two.
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