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Panel forming using a bead roller

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  • #61
    OK, enough of the practice pieces, time to finish the rest of the bends. Just to make sure we don't need any "tweaking", I'll cut a profile sample out of the center. This spot weld one the inner flange is far enough away so I won't need to grind out a spot weld, and still have enough of that flange for a good measurement. In other words, removed with minimal effort where it still holds it's shape accurately.

    Our profile template:

    Just to compare to our test sample, looks like the inner flange was bent down a bit much in the manual hammering, will have to ease up a bit...

    Outside profile looks good enough to leave alone!

    Following the measurement used on the test sample, the panel is run through the bead roller's tipping wheel nice and slow to give us an initial mark for the bend, then repeated to tip the flange downward...

    This looks about all we'll get without distorting and pulling, so then it's off to the custom anvil...

    Then for some manual tipping...

    ...and comparing to our profile sample......

    Ready to cut off the old next time...


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    • #62
      The next task is to remove the bottom detail of the lift gate and sandblast the remaining structure in prep for epoxy primer. The lower edge did have a flange folded up, so a slit was cut along the edge and the door skin vise grips were put to use...

      Next, the spot welds inside were ground out.....

      Media blasting..... nice to finally see through the glass!

      The media blasting revealed a few more holes, and numerous pits, many of them close to breaking through.

      With all the other new metal going in the bottom, there's only one thing to do. Using the tipping wheel..........

      Comparing to the pitted version.....

      Next we'll need to add the hole pad details.

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      • #63
        Now to address the mounting pads for the window molding....

        Here's the new "anvil", made from some phenolic sheet.....

        Put an alignment mark on the anvil, fitted it to the originals, and added the mark there as well. Then transposed those marks to the new piece...

        Anvil was located, and clamped in the vise to hold it's location

        Started with the barrel end hammer.....

        For the ends, I used a rounded tip chisel....

        ....and then another "anvil" to clean up the hammer marks a bit...

        Here's all the tools used....

        Touched up a bit with a sanding disc, looks close enough.... One down, 4 to go...


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        • #64
          Finishing up the pad details on the inner structure of the lift gate.... The center one was wider, so I used the same phenolic and just added a wider detail to the opposite side. I missed showing this earlier, but a handy-dandy battery saw works well to remove the bulk of the material, sawing parallel cuts and then just working the saw side to side to clear out the remaining....

          Once cut out, the sanding disc is used to cut down the angled sides and touch up the bottom..

          This compares the two, showing the difference in width...

          Alignment marks transposed from the original, and guide marks indicate the area in need of hammering...

          I had a request to show the hammering procedure, so here's another video attempt. The first one is using the phenolic anvil clamped against the work piece in the vise, the second uses 1" square stock as an anvil to clean up the hammer marks a bit...

          ...also sounds like I have a loose hammer handle, something for another day.... ;)

          Then the sanding disc was used for final cleanup. Here's the finished piece, just needs a couple holes drilled....


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          • #65
            Continuing, the spot welds in the bottom piece were drilled out. This revealed a couple more pits, which were media blasted and MIG welded to repair.

            All cleaned up, the new piece is plug welded on....

            Then the inner panel is fitted up and tacked in place....

            Top flange clamped to check the fit.....

            Finishing up the welding of the inner bottom panel....used a 3/16 hole for the plug welds this time. I normally use a letter A, but the flange here is a bit narrow, so a smaller hole it is. To make up for it the heat on the welder was cranked up a bit to insure a good weld.

            Looking at the back side, these should hold well.

            All the plug welds done, then on to the corner seams.....

            and after cleaning up the welds.....

            Then we'll clean up the plug welds on the flange, media blast the inside for good paint adhesion and some epoxy primer before closing it up..

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            • #66
              Here's the last installment for the Studebaker Pickup's dash panel. This piece is to hold the heater/AC controls and DIN radio. The owner had made up a sample piece to make it from:

              I wasn't too comfortable making something to match this piece as I didn't think these corners and the elliptical radius was correct. This is what I get for someone not wanting to bring over the truck to work from..

              Looking at the picture he had sent of the dash, the piece this was replacing appeared to have straight sides and about a 1/2" radius.... (the piece under the orange panel)

              So I had him bring that panel over to have a "more accurate" sample so my work will have a better chance of fitting.. a bit different from his sample...

              What I could only guess was him wanting 3/8 hardware, was actually 10-24 studs with a 3/8 nut.

              You've got to love it!

              Here's the layout, and cut out on the band saw....

              I use some modified lower dies in the press brake to fold the 1/4" flanges around the perimeter....

              The folds were stopped shy of the corners, and a 1" diameter "anvil" was used to form each corner radius.

              The process is shown in this video on a similar piece....


              Finished radius....

              Then, to add a radius along the bottom, I used the Baileigh magnetic brake, adding a 7/8" steel rod to form the radius...

              ....and then the front was folded up...

              The front was squared up, then sides were clamped, and spot welded in place....

              DIN hole cut in place..

              Hidden studs added....

              Note anti-seize on threads to prevent galling/stripping of the threads while the nut held the studs in the vise during welding.

              Welds for the studs cleaned up, and the radio test fit...

              Some holes will be added to the rear of the side panels to attach support straps for the rear up to the dashboard during install... For now, All ready to go!!
              Superhero BangShifter
              Last edited by MP&C; November 11, 2013, 08:22 PM.

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              • #67
                Great work and excellent detail! I need a couple of those diamond shaped pieces for the windshield molding on a 55 dash that is going to hang on the wall. I made a crude one with home depot sheet metal. You have any interest in hammering a couple out? I need two furthest out from the center.



                • #68
                  amazing work


                  • #69
                    Had a request recently to fabricate some drip rail. I know that in many cases, rusty drip rails are seen as a major obstacle and most result in shaved drip rails as a person's only option. So I thought I'd add this here to show what is possible with a bead roller and various dies.. that perhaps some drip rails can be saved!

                    Here is the sample I received:

                    We start off with the offset joggle, which is done with step dies. To get the correct offset, these step dies were fabricated in the South Bend..

                    I used a "backstop" die behind the bottom roller, and after some trial and error, had to go back and trim a bit more off the width of the lower die to get the drip rail height correct.

                    Then the "backstop" die was radiused to use with the skateboard wheel in providing the radius for the front face...

                    Then a few passes with the tipping die to fold up the front face... I used the tipping die at the crease adjacent to the radius flange, and in an attempt to keep the vee tighter, I also flipped the piece over and used the sharp tipping wheel on the back side. Once the flange was tipped, I also used the tipping wheel (with backstop) to mark the other two folds.. Then the obtuse angle was folded using the tipping wheel, the 90 was folded using a gooseneck die in the press brake.

                    In using the tipping die with the soft skate board wheel, the ends wanted to fold much more than the rest of the trial piece, so rather than continually readjust the tension, I sacrificed the first inch or so and just cut it off in the band saw.

                    Here is the outer portion formed, the height of the face section is about perfect, this is using die width and back stop to regulate dimension...

                    The sharp bend (Vee shape at the bottom) on mine wasn't quite as tight together. So where it is ever so slightly different, it does show what is possible.

                    Superhero BangShifter
                    Last edited by MP&C; November 12, 2014, 11:50 AM.

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                    • #70
                      Too cool, I love this stuff.


                      • #71
                        It's all magic!!!
                        Escaped on a technicality.


                        • #72
                          Ok, not exactly a bead roller, but close.... Got a "requirement" for some bead detail work and don't need the panels losing any of their shape. The bead roller does a nice job, but the forming process is more of a relocation of the metal from elsewhere, which would cause a panel to possibly lose some crown.

                          The Lennox (Pullmax) as a reciprocating machine does a better job of stretching the metal as the bead is formed, so there is less issue of losing panel crown.

                          Here we're making the female die in the South Bend milling machine.

                          Ball end milling bit clamped in the chuck, square stock clamped in the Aloris tool holder..

                          The ends of the tooling was also turned in the lathe to give a nice round feature that will work better for use with a guide.

                          Test run...

                          Nice crisp lines, the "chatter" should be cleaned up if I can get the feed speed more consistent. The small diameter of the upper die's "punch" provides the needed stretch, with the downside being the marking from too fast of a feed speed. Making the upper die in more of an oval shape will eliminate most of the marking, but it won't stretch as well.. To keep from losing panel crown, stretch is our preference here..

                          This shows how well the die provides stretch, when you can add a bead in the middle of a panel....

                          ......and there's no distortion on the ends of the bead on an otherwise flat panel..


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