84 C10 Clutch woes

[milner351]

yea - that's scary - that could fail and really put a bad end on the day -

[yellomalibu]

That is exactly what I was going to ask the welder to do. It wouldn't be very hard to take a piece of steel and whack it a few times with a hammer to put that curve into it, then clamp and weld it in place.
He had mentioned, before, just welding a 5/8 washer over the busted out area and calling it done - but seeing how bad it looks, I'm going to ask him to be a bit more thorough.
Even though I still have a currency deficiency, I want it done right rather than cheaply.

[Bamfster]

I agree w/milner ... add re-enforcement. the problem with just welding up the crack is that the frame material is annealed, and when welded it becomes more brittle and will then crack on either or both sides of the weld.

3/16 drill hole on each end of the crack (to stop it), plate one or both sides.

[milner351]

Can you reinforce that section of the frame with a flat plate bolted through some frame holes on both sides of the crack?

That would be a nearly free fix that would lend a great deal of support to the area, even 1/8" plate would be a huge improvement with 2 bolts on each side of that crack. In fact - even if it's welded - I'd like to see reinforcing plate on one side - and I'd do the other side too - if one went, the other probably won't be too far behind.

[yellomalibu]

Thanks for your kind use of the word "brave".

[OldMachinist]

You are much braver than me if you are continuing to tow with a crack like that. Doesn't the hitch mount behind that crack? Wow!

[yellomalibu]

The last couple months, a guy I know has bought two old tractors, and paid me to go pick them up and deliver them to his house. It did a number on my bumper mounted receiver... I don't think this bumper is rated very high. See how the ball mount is pointing down and the center section of the bumper has separated from the other part?

I was trying to wait for my tax return, so I didn't have to use a credit card to charge the new class III receiver...


But tractor guy calls me the other day; he bought another tractor- this one is further away than the last two, so he'll pay me more to go get it. Um, well - I need a new hitch. I don't trust my bumper any more... can you wait a week? Turns out that he couldn't or didn't want to... but I got a new, safe, hitch anyway.

Had to grind off a couple factory rivets for the center bolt on each side - and managed to grind the skin off my knuckle (who needs a gaurd!) ... and have a dozen mini-blisters from the metal shavings from drilling new 1/2 holes.


While I was at it, I figured I'd take a look at my shock mount that's been rattling around. I picked up a 5/8 washer, maybe I could use that to buy some more time until I have the money to have the busted out shock mount hole welded up... Um, yikes - I better come up with some money to have my frame welded up sooner than later. Bouncing the truck with my hands, I can see that crack in the top of the frame rail flex/ move.



I wonder how much that frame flexes when I tow...
On the positive side... look how rusty this 29 year old truck is!

[milner351]

Keep in mind I had less than ideal prep - pretty much just a power wash from the local $0.25 car wash, then drive to shop and let dry for a couple days, then spray.

I used a 50/50 mix of water and deoxy - and put it on pretty heavy.

I waited a day - and put on another coat - I did not see an even coating after the first time - some white splotching, some black oxidation.

I let the second application dry a couple days (over the holidays, doing front end work on the truck, etc)

Then I sprayed on the eastwood rust encapsulator coating without thinning, using a cheap HF HVLP gun.

That was about a week ago - it's been snowing here and the truck is filthy again - the plan is to take it to the carwash again - then take it in to have ziebart do it's thing to the underside. I wanted to get the "good stuff" on the frame before they put the "tar" on top.

Only time will tell.

I think it works good - but my application was far from Ideal given that I didn't take anything apart and didn't get too picky about how clean anything was. I have not put it in a bucket to dip parts in - that's my next attempt at using this stuff.

[tardis454]

- it would haul anything anywhere ..... if you were patient)

How'd the Deoxy work out for you?

Well, how did it work milner?

[milner351]

Drive it as is till it gives you a reason to make the swap - self discipline is a biatch sometimes.... but hey - if you're hauling heavy up a grade holding your foot on the floor and being passed by 18 wheelers.... just think of how cheap it is to operate - and smile.
LOL

(that's how I felt driving my IDI diesel truck with no turbo - it would haul anything anywhere ..... if you were patient)

[yellomalibu]

But you can... a few companies make an adapter to use a 2 piece seal crank in a 1 piece block.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-38315...055#vi-content

Pricey! I was aware of them, but forgot about them - and didn't know they were almost as much as a new crank.

[Bamfster]

I just realized (or remembered) that a vortec motor has a 1 pc rear main seal - a fine carbureted 350 that would make, but a 383 with my 400 crank, it cannot.

But you can... a few companies make an adapter to use a 2 piece seal crank in a 1 piece block.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-38315-Rear-Seal-Adapter-/140896521055#vi-content

[yellomalibu]

Yup. Since the gutless 305 runs so good, I'm not in a big hurry to make the swap. Since I'm not in a hurry to make the swap, I can keep my eyes open for a vortec/ roller block. Were any of the vortec motors drilled for a fuel pump push rod, or would using one of those motors mandate an electric fuel pump? I guess plumbing an inline universal pump wouldn't be a big deal.

I just realized (or remembered) that a vortec motor has a 1 pc rear main seal - a fine carbureted 350 that would make, but a 383 with my 400 crank, it cannot.

[yellomalibu]

If the 305 is a gutless wonder while towing,
like the 88 F150 I had with a 302 EFI and a SROD 4spd trans swapped in for the ill fated mazda 5 speed
that was a bitch to tow heavy with due to the HUGE gear ratio steps....

I would not blame you for building a mild 350 on the cheap since you can use the intake, carb (up the jets?), distributor, manifolds, etc....
it's not like the 302 to 351w Ford guys have to put up with (different intake, distributor, oil pan)

But - if the 305 is healthy - it's sure a lot easier to drive it until it starts making death sounds while building up parts for the 350, and wouldn't the vorted heads and intake make alot of sense in that swap?
(there goes the project creep again - vortec block with roller cam, etc)

Yup. Since the gutless 305 runs so good, I'm not in a big hurry to make the swap. Since I'm not in a hurry to make the swap, I can keep my eyes open for a vortec/ roller block. Were any of the vortec motors drilled for a fuel pump push rod, or would using one of those motors mandate an electric fuel pump? I guess plumbing an inline universal pump wouldn't be a big deal.

[milner351]

If the 305 is a gutless wonder while towing,
like the 88 F150 I had with a 302 EFI and a SROD 4spd trans swapped in for the ill fated mazda 5 speed
that was a bitch to tow heavy with due to the HUGE gear ratio steps....

I would not blame you for building a mild 350 on the cheap since you can use the intake, carb (up the jets?), distributor, manifolds, etc....
it's not like the 302 to 351w Ford guys have to put up with (different intake, distributor, oil pan)

But - if the 305 is healthy - it's sure a lot easier to drive it until it starts making death sounds while building up parts for the 350, and wouldn't the vorted heads and intake make alot of sense in that swap?
(there goes the project creep again - vortec block with roller cam, etc)