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AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

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  • 2k3Chevelle468
    started a topic AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Guys I have been a BBC guy for quite some time. After my last 454 blew I installed a spare 355 that I got from a co-worker. The engine has performed well and has forged pistons but is two bolt mains. Last year I purchased some AFR 1034 Elminator heads. Should I install them on this engine and if so with what cam? Or should I just hold on to them and build a 383. My goals are to run in our 1/8 mile 7.50 index class. My car weighs about 3400 pounds and I have a well built th350 and a 4000 8inch A-1 converter. I also has 4:10 gears with 28 x 11.50 MT ET Streets with SSM liftbars. I'm not opposed to changing anything just posting what I have. I guess I should add that I have a couple of nitrous kits to include the 100 hp Edelbrock setup that is currentlyu on the engine but I have yet to use with my current setup.

  • 2k3Chevelle468
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Combo looks good. I can only hope that my combo performs close to that. Last night my wife ordered the Voodoo 60104 cam kit for my Christmas gift. I'm going to get a 3000+ stall to go with it. Here are the cam specs -

    Advertised Duration IN/EX: 276/284
    Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 233/241
    Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .504"/.525"
    LSA / ICL: 110/106
    Valve Lash IN/EX: Hyd/Hyd
    RPM Range: 2200-6400

    Leave a comment:


  • DiscoNova
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Food For Thought
    355 SBC
    11 to 1 Ran On Pump Fuel
    Comp Extreme Energy Hydralic Cam .507 .510 lift
    Box Stock Dart Pro 1 200cc aluminum
    Team G Single Plane Intake
    Pro Systems 780 cfm Carb
    GM Lower end
    4.10 Gear
    275/60/R15 Drag Radials
    Jegs 9" Convertor 3400 stall
    Car with driver wieghed just shy of 3400lbs
    1.62 Sixty
    12.10 @ 110
    this was all done with a Stock 4 blade fan and a Stock Fuel Pump from Auto Value for a 1971 Z28

    Leave a comment:


  • 2k3Chevelle468
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Revolutionary - I'm going to try and come close to your hydraulic flat tappet combo with this build. Hopefully it will "feel" fast enough to tide us over for the season. Then again I don't install my motors without at least a small shot of N20. Just in case. ;D

    Thanks again all.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2k3Chevelle468
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Thanks for your opinions guys I think I will change my plans and shoot for a more obtainable 12 second combo consisting of something like a Voodoo hydraulic and my AFR's on our current 350 and a 3000 stall converter. I'm going to give Lunati a call and see if they can shed some light on the situation. I would rather spend more time at the track teaching then in the garage tuning for a change. I'm going to turn my soon to be 16 year old son loose this year and let him get started with some bracket racing. Then we'll rethink the combination up after he has some seat time.

    Leave a comment:


  • JeffMcKC
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Save your stuff do the 383, and put a nice roller in it, in this day and age why use a flat tappet that more than likely will flatten a lobe and you will be starting over again. You will get a better grind and it wont cost that much more.

    Leave a comment:


  • MadmanMark
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    With 249/254 duration and a very tight 106 lsa, I'd guess that cam might be a bit too big for the 355 but might work well with a 383 and your gearing as long as you don't need vacuum for brakes. Also, I've done a switch from Dart IEs to AFRs on a 400 sbc (before the Eliminators), and the AFRs were noticibly stronger. I think a lot of the Eliminators have the lighter LS valvetrain, so they might be good to 6500-7000 right out of the box (sping combo 8019 I think).

    Leave a comment:


  • 2k3Chevelle468
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    Thanks for the input guys. I talked with the guys at Lunati a while back. They recommended a solid flat tappet cam that should put me in the mid 12 area with decent heads. I then went a step higher after talking with a relative whose Chevelle was running 12.20's in the quarter with Dart IE heads and no and purchased a Lunati 40146. The current motor has flat top pistons that the previous owner claims to provide a 10 -1 compression ratio with stock 882 heads. How do you think this cam will perform with the AFR's in a 355 or 383?

    Leave a comment:


  • revolutionary
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    They are pretty decent heads. We recently built this combo;

    383 with the new AFR eliminator 195 heads (they flowed 265/217at .600 on my stingy-ass sf600), 10.7:1, 240/246 @ .050 hyd flat tappet on a 110lsa, with an old 3310 carb and it made right at 480hp and 455ft-lbs. Not quite what the mags suggest for the combo but very respectable and with an average torque of 417ft-lbs from 3500-6500rpm it would really help a big slug of a car get moving with a little converter and gear behind it.

    Leave a comment:


  • MadmanMark
    replied
    Re: AFR 195 Eliminator Build Recommendations

    IMO, I'd stroke your 355 before adding the AFRs, although they would work well on the 355 too. To really use the AFRs, you'll want to push roughly .55-.6" lift.

    I'm not sure what crank, compression, or cam you have in the 355, but if you want 7.5 in the 1/8th, I'd shoot for a 355 combo that could rev 6500-7000, most likely solid roller or solid flat territoritory (unless you're willing to pay for an AFR rev kit or some comparable valvetrain upgrade). If you're reving to 7000, forged crank/rods/pistons are a good idea.

    A 383 combo (pistons/rods/bearings/rings) w/ forged pistons (really should do this for the N2O) ranges from $900-1900 (based on Eagle kits from Summit), depending on whether you go with a forged or cast crank. I don't think I'd trust the cast crank too far past 6000rpm in a 383, but if you have lightweight forged rods/pistons, you might be OK to 6500.

    For cams, call Comp and get their input. You might want to consider a small core if you go with the 383 to avoid having to clearance the rods.

    Obviously, the easiest path is to throw them on what you have and run with it. I don't think you'd get close to 7.5, but it would probably run really strong on the street.

    I have a 69 Chevelle and have been down this same path. I started with a 250. Got the 1st junkyard V-8 (turned out to be a 307). Then got the 2nd junkyard V8 (a 350), followed by a built 355, then a 383, and now a 427sbc. This has been spread over more than 20 years of ownership (with it never being off the road for too long - I got it with 30k miles and it has 250k now). I've just reached 7.5 in the 1/8th with the latest 427 (w/ 210 AFR Eliminators), but my ride is heavier (about 4000lbs with me in it and full tank of gas). With the heads you have, I'd say you'd never go back to a 350 or smaller small block if you started the journey to bigger displacements.

    Leave a comment:

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