Broken starter mounting ear on a small block Chevy

[Matt Cramer]

So, the starter on the C10 was binding up. I figured it was a bad pinion gear and pulled the starter - only to find my starter was still in good shape and the block wasn't. There's a chunk about the size of my fingernail missing from the outside of the boss where the outer starter bolt goes. Enough metal missing that a normal starter bolt won't tighten down. It looks like I could get it with some sort of extra long starter bolt, but haven't seen such a thing available with the right outer diameter to locate the starter. (I suppose I could have one made on a lathe...)

Are there any good fixes for this that don't involve pulling the motor?

[SuperBuickGuy]

picture would be helpful, but if I understand you correctly, the ear is almost broken off (there is a crack through the bolt hole)

There is a fix - heat it with a propane torch to 400* and weld it with a mig using stainess wire. It goes without saying that it has to be clean (fortunately, the heating to 400* does a pretty good job of this)

Whatever you do, don't try a longer bolt - that's probably what broke it to begin with (the hole doesn't go completely through the block)

[Dan Barlow]

Never had this problem but if it had I would try epoxy. I think Supers idea is best your going to get though.

[Matt Cramer]

It's not almost broken off, so much as there's a small part of it already broken off at the bottom and the remainder of it is still on the block. That would preclude trying to weld on the missing piece, but not trying to fill the space with epoxy.

This hole does go all the way through, but I'm not sure if it is tapped for its entire length.

[squirrel]

get another block. btdt

[TheSilverBuick]

If you're in it for a block, might as well try and JB Weld a stud of appropriate length on to it first. Kwik Weld works good and takes about five to ten minutes to get sticky enough to support it's own weight and keep from dripping down.

[squirrel]

If you attempt that, make sure the stud has the proper knurl at the junction of the block and starter nose.

[TheSilverBuick]

Once you're at JB Weld on the block, to any of the rules of 'proper' apply? Probably could cut down a long starter bolt and thread the end for a nut.

[squirrel]

the long starter bolt is the one he needs to use, so that won't work easily. The starter nose needs to be properly located, if the stud is too small diameter, it won't be.

Another "fix" I've seen is to run an older manual trans and early bellhousing that uses the 3 bolt starter, which bolts to the bellhousing rather than the block. Makes it fun for the next guy who owns the car and wants to swap in an automatic.

[Matt Cramer]

Not mine, but this guy has a similar issue:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3262

Except in my case, imagine the cracked bit has broken off about as far as the yellow goes down the hole, and the lower crack is closed to the outside of the block.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've been there, and in my case, the crack went all the way into the block. It's why I suggested welding - however, I've not seen it all so YMMV

[Scott Liggett]

There are machine shops that specialize in block welding to fix this exact thing. To fix it right will require removing the engine. Otherwise there are a lot of ways to attempt a temp fix. And, thats what jb weld and other stuff is, just a temp fix.

[anotheridiot]

you can get a grade 8 bolt at any industrial supply the correct length, you might want to try drilling the hole up thru the casting and tapping a few new threads where the extra length bolt would go.

[Barry Donovan]

that error is a result of something else.

I could not figure why they left it so weak to begin with..
it is a fail sign for something. flywheel, starter guts wobbling, all kinds of ways to kill that silly spot.

[yellomalibu]

Think outside the bun.

If you wish to get the bolt deeper in the hole, yet you must use the special starter bolt that has the knurled shaft that locates the starter - perhaps grind away 1/4" or so of the starter, essentially making your bolt 1/4" longer.

Just a thought. Not seeing if you have the long/long style or the short/long style or the other specifics of your situation, I don't know if that will work.

Like others have said, you're into temp fixes or shade tree engineering (or any number of less pc terms) at this point...