Wheel Spacers

[TC]

IMO if you need spacers, you need different wheels....... Also be careful of the type of spacer you get, some are not NHRA legal.......

[Barry Donovan]

spacer stuff is easy.
the machine line for original inside bead is the keeper. do anything you want after that, unless hub centric is lost.
at 8 lug you could even have a bad center and keep going, that is a tractor trailer for a pickup.

they used to wobble wheels down the road with tons..alot of lugs per wheel get away with it. That is one of the purpose for many lugs..

I played with that stuff. more than even the centric is the back line where factory had the inside bead.. imaginary line. too far out is death.(A Subaru plays with 1/8th of an inch).

your first post is hitting a shock, so it seems you are the reason for spacers... get the line back to normal.

[DanStokes]

The fix to miss the lower shock bolt would be to use panhead bolts (like factory GM seatbelt bolts) but I haven't been able to scare up any the right size and length. The nut end has more sticking out than the bolt end so that won't help. The tires also rub the lower control arms just a tad. I don't think it would take much to fix all the above so that's why I though I'd try a small spacer and see if it helps but I didn't want to go there if they were a bad idea.

New wheels would be a fine thing but I need to put my car money into the S-10 so I want to stay cheaper than that.

Again, thanks for all the great input.

Dan

[Russell]

Dan, I have not had anything worthy of adding until now! There is a plase just up from my office that may have the bolt you need. http://www.automotivefasteners.com/ (252) 291-1736 Call them if they have what you want I can pick up and Bring to OH.

[DanStokes]

I went on their website and had the same issue I've been having - too short. The longest 10 mm button head is 40mm - about 1 1/2 inches. Bummer.

Still, THANKS for looking! Very kind.

BTW - the way I'm currently handling this is when I need full lock (like in a parking lot) I crank the wheel all the way and back off a tad. Fine for me but I worry if someone else is behind the wheel. Any of you who have driven a full-sized Dodge know that turning radius is NOT it's strong point so the urge to go full lock is a strong one. There does not seem to be an external stop either or I'd modify that - I guess the steering box has the limiter.

Dan

[Russell]

Bummer! May have to get one of the guys on here with a lathe mill you a bolt from solid stock, and then have it hardened!

[1badmonkey]

Dan, find a local shop that gets Excalibur accessories, ask for a # 604 spacer, like these

I would ship you these, but I bet you can buy the local for less that the freight would be.

[DanStokes]

Thanks, Monkey! I'll go looking.

Dan

[DanStokes]

None local so I went with Jegs - the "no shipping but $4.95 for handling" deal. Still the cheapest that I found. They were cast with "WS135" I think it was. I'm thinking Jeg's brand is really the same as everybody elses. Anyhow, they're here and installed and seem to have fixed the issue. I did a quick spray of blue paint on the bits that were getting rubbed and I'll put it up when I get back from ECTA and see if there is any paint missing. Pretty sure it'll be OK.

Dan

[Deaf Bob]

Don't forget to check your spacers, Dan!
ECTA has come and gone..

[squirrel]

check lug nut torque again too

[Beagle]

check lug nut torque again too

probably not a bad idea before a top speed run anyway. Maybe there should be a sticky of really obvious stuff...

"Check the lug nut torque AGAIN"

I had to put a note on one of my bikes "Turn on the gas, Turn off the gas" both had very obvious outcomes. Vrroooooom booggg.. crap. Drip drip empty tank... Crap.

[DanStokes]

Got home late last night and I'll put it up once I recover from the road trip. I was planning to check the lugs again but they were OK at the track.

Dan

[DanStokes]

Lugs are still up tight and outta sight! (S. Wonder)

The right side no longer hits at all (tight RH turn) while the left still hits the shock bolt but only slightly. I may be able to fix it with a shock bolt with a thinner head. The factory shock bolt is pretty thick and has a crown on the top of the head. The left also just slightly hits the lower control arm but there are several possible fixes for that including the ol' heat and beat - it wouldn't take much. I'll chew on it for a day or two.

Painting the rub area a contrasting color turned out to be a great idea. The issue showed up easily.

Dan

[Ron Ward]

... including the ol' heat and beat.... I'll chew on it for a day or two.


Dan

You just described my ex-wife's cooking.