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Joes Furys ingnition woes

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  • Joes Furys ingnition woes

    Okay. The Fury is in the driveway now awaiting some much need attention.

    I parked it out of disgust. It would only idle and run well at WOT....after a few years of thinking I decided that the distributor was the culprit.

    I popped the cap off and grabbed the rotor. After twisting it left to right there is almost an inch of play in either direction. Now, I am no car wizzard but I suspect the shaft is work causing the timing to jump all over the damn place...


    I have been shopping for a ditributor and I am pretty sure I can source a stock one and install the electronic conversion from the old Mallory dual point set up thats in it.

    Now, the queston I have is do I really need vacuum advance? I can get one with and one without...is there any benifit to adding the advance?


    Thoughts?
    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  • #2
    These 3 are the ones in my price range (with VA)...any input is appreciated





    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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    • #3
      Free Shipping - Davis Unified Ignition Dodge Street/Strip D.U.I. Distributors with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Distributors at Summit Racing.

      pricey , but 1 wire

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      • #4
        yeah. thats worth more than the whole car...Lets think cheaper....LOTS cheaper.
        If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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        • #5
          Vacuum advance gets you a little more gas mileage, that's about it. Probably not a big deal for you, since you don't need to drive the car too often.

          RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.


          My fabulous web page

          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by squirrel View Post
            Vacuum advance gets you a little more gas mileage, that's about it. Probably not a big deal for you, since you don't need to drive the car too often.

            RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.


            I thought of this option as well. I can get one local for the same price...The reason I posted the others is they would have new electronic parts...I am just a little concerned about the ones in the car now...they have been sitting...

            I guess if it doesnt work I would put it back together and hold onto it just in case....
            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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            • #7
              Need to rebuild the carb as well....never done one before...I have a kit...guess now is as good a time to learn as any....
              If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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              • #8
                vaccum advance is for magnets that lose.
                not even points benefit until insane rpm racing (when it outdoes the "realtime" it is most likely floating anyway)

                my dream for the old cars is optical, but if still running points, magnetic has no long term weirdness yet, even at 50 years old.
                it does catch up...when it does it is undiagnosable and terrible.

                and the next time spell check looks up at my superior English..so help me...

                if newer style magnet, use advance. A single diaphragm is good for shock absorbing at low speed to keep a nice tune low rpm, to 5k or so, hence tricking you into thinking it is advancing once rpms climb.. the engine smoothed on its own.

                A double diaphragm can carry that magnetic pickup into ten k rpm, one just needs a progressive port on the second one.


                optical just simply annihilates old school mentality. I lived all of the designs in one engine.

                optical on a digital interrupt ignition (msd, etc). Nothing proven better for me.
                Last edited by Barry Donovan; August 26, 2013, 10:28 AM.
                Previously boxer3main
                the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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                • #9
                  Got 2 things recent to add...
                  #1... kid's 455 powered Skylark runs a HEI, with the vac advance disconnected.. No matter what we did.. It ran best with it disconnected.
                  #2.. the beast derby motor seem to run little erratic..so he bought a MSD system, upon pulling the old HEI, the gear was worn to sharp points.. New dizzy really livened it up! Old dizzy had the best guts and coil in it.. New one is getting pulled over winter to check it out.. This motor never runs vac advance..

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                  • #10
                    If this was a race only type car I'd say get rid of the vacuum advance, but since it will be street driven I'd go with a vacuum advance, it'll give you better cruise performance/throttle response.

                    And what kind of carb is on it?
                    The Green Machine.
                    http://s1.postimg.org/40t9i583j/mytruck.jpg

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                    • #11
                      I'd look at your timing chain,
                      if the shaft is moving left and right (in the housing) you can pull it and install new bushings/bearings , instead of a new distributor.
                      I'd keep the vac advance, with todays crap for fuel,

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                      • #12
                        currently no vac advance, only runs on premium, 750 Holley dual feed...

                        I think i will pick up the el cheapo reman stocker and swap stuff over...It is an old mallory dual point that was converted...I may have a stocker in the garage too...I will have to look thru my junk.
                        If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                          currently no vac advance, only runs on premium, 750 Holley dual feed...

                          I think i will pick up the el cheapo reman stocker and swap stuff over...It is an old mallory dual point that was converted...I may have a stocker in the garage too...I will have to look thru my junk.
                          Could be all you need is a shim kit for current distributor to get rid of the play. Much cheaper than any new dist. If the dist gear is worn, you are halfway to a new dist in cost. GM's are in the $50-60 just for a gear.

                          Give me a call if you need help with the carb.
                          BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                          • #14
                            Mopar gear is not part of the distributor, it sits in the block in it's own bushing, there's a slot in the top of it that the dist shaft fits into.
                            My fabulous web page

                            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                              Mopar gear is not part of the distributor, it sits in the block in it's own bushing, there's a slot in the top of it that the dist shaft fits into.
                              Shows my knowledge of Slopars.

                              I would still check it.
                              BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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