Multitools for sheet metal cutting on cars

[CDMBill]

Has anyone used this kind of tool for cutting on the sheet metal in car bodies? I've never used one at all but the configuration and ability to cut tight in corners seems useful. Do they hold up, are they fast? I have other Makita 18v stuff that I like and some batteries so this isn't a huge expense at $88 on Amazon.

[SuperBuickGuy]

how would you cut sheet metal with it? Are you thinking of these?

unishears work fine, but they tend to deform the metal

or maybe these?


nibblers work fine, but they are not easy to keep in a straight line (when you're freehanding).

[STINEY]

Has anyone used this kind of tool for cutting on the sheet metal in car bodies? I've never used one at all but the configuration and ability to cut tight in corners seems useful. Do they hold up, are they fast? I have other Makita 18v stuff that I like and some batteries so this isn't a huge expense at $88 on Amazon.

I use one like that on houses....they are the cats-hiney for trim work, especially when flooring.

I don't see, from my experience, that I would want to use it much on metal. Especially metal that I would like to remain flat. Demolition type metal cutting maybe...?

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

get a body saw... it's basicly a saber saw, but on the idea of a mini sawsall .. I'd think a battery powered saber saw would be ideal if they made one with the speed of the body saw.. I'm sure someone makes one of these in cordless..

[CDMBill]

I wasn't clear about the tool configuration. These occilate at a high rate of speed in a very tight circle the net being they can cut cleanly even while making a plunge cut. The different blade types handle wood, metal, ceramic etc. The shapes and indexing allow work on tight places and odd angles.

So for making an old school spaced in mini-tub on my current project I could cut along the radial axis of the tub inside the trunk with this tool because I can hold it very close to the work with the blade perpendicular, and they cut equally in both directions. At least according to the videos. Again I have never used one.

Hopefully less distortion than shears and less NVH and ease of access than the nibbler.

[CDMBill]

get a body saw... it's basicly a saber saw, but on the idea of a mini sawsall .. I'd think a battery powered saber saw would be ideal if they made one with the speed of the body saw.. I'm sure someone makes one of these in cordless..

Thank you. I have a pnuematic version of one of these, but the issue is the ability to cut close to an adjacent vertical surface, to cut in limited space above the cut and to make shallow cuts so the blade doesn't get into other structures beneath the cut line.

[squirrel]

If an angle grinder with a 5" cutoff wheel won't work...then try the multi tool, and be sure to let us know how it works.

I assume the blades are all saws? not abrasive?

[SuperBuickGuy]

I wasn't clear about the tool configuration. These occilate at a high rate of speed in a very tight circle the net being they can cut cleanly even while making a plunge cut. The different blade types handle wood, metal, ceramic etc. The shapes and indexing allow work on tight places and odd angles.

So for making an old school spaced in mini-tub on my current project I could cut along the radial axis of the tub inside the trunk with this tool because I can hold it very close to the work with the blade perpendicular, and they cut equally in both directions. At least according to the videos. Again I have never used one.

Hopefully less distortion than shears and less NVH and ease of access than the nibbler.

learned something new (I didn't realize you could cut metal with them) - thanks

[TheSilverBuick]

I've never tried them on straight metal, but I've used ones to trim drywall and it ate through nails pretty easily too.

[CDMBill]

The circular and semi-circular blades are recommended up to 20 gauge steel. I'd like a bit more but we'll see how it goes, the scraper looks to be great for removing the factory version of dynamat.

As Jim says I'll cut what I can with the cutoff wheel and body saw but some places need something else so I can avoid the dreaded plasma cutter.

[SuperBuickGuy]

dreaded? fire is good... fire in the 5th state is even better.

[squirrel]

We ended up cutting most of the rear floor out of my Chevy II with the plasma cutter. And used it for cutting the new panels to splice in, too. Not many butt welds, though.

[milner351]

I got a plasma cutter off ebay - new in the box for under $400 shipped to my door - yea it's from China - awfully hard to beat it for occasional use.

I second Jim's comment on the butt welds. Plasma cutters leave a nice edge but it is somewhat contaminated and doesn't weld nicely without thorough clean up first. Overlapping then welding is much much easier and faster.

I am interested in the friction blade life vs fine tooth steel blade life and performance on this type of tool. I've found the milwaukee "torch" metal blades for the sawzall work very well - better than the friction blades.

Put on those safety glasses!

[CDMBill]

I'm a big fan of those Torch blades too. Same issue though, there are some places you just can't get to with a Sawzall. This weekend will be the test. I want to cut and move the existing inner part of the fender well and make the whole thing look as stock as possible inside the truck rather than conventional fabricated mini tubs. Just my particular foolishness.

[DanStokes]

I used my Fein tool on aluminum and it works great. If you look on my build thread you'll see the gage holes that I cut with it using the half moon shaped blade. I don't have the blades for sheet steel but I'd think with the right blades they should work well. Put on your ear goggles!

Dan