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A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

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  • A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

    I have a stock disc brake set up that I got a few years ago that I now want to install on my car. Which is a 67 Chevelle with a big block it currently has the stock drums on the front with a manual master cylinder.

    My question is I don't really want to use a power booster so with that being said I notice that alot of guys run the Strange type master cylinder on their cars. Will this master cylinder work on my Chevelle or is there a stocker that I can buy from the local parts store that will do the same thing. Also will I have to run a prop valve with this set-up.

    Another question is how do I separate my ball joints without destroying them. As I am not ready to rebuild the front end right now.

    Any Advice would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

    dragracebrakes.com Tell him Jeff sent you,Travis sells one for yours too you will not need a prop valve its in the master cylinder
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
    2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
    2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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    • #3
      Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

      GM cars w/ manual disc brakes will have a master cyl you can use, if you ask for a '73-74 Nova (they were all f. disc) w/ manual you should do OK. Make sure it gets poked at the right place, you may need a different push rod (hopefully not). The prop valve will need to be from a contemporary disc car but it could be from a power boosted car, easier to find.

      To separate ball joints without damage, remove the shocks and jack the car up by the frame so that the joints are to where they would want to pull out. Steer the spindle so you have some room to work. Undo the ball-joint stud nuts 3-or-so turns only...not very far. Now take a piece of soft material such as aluminum or brass, 3/16 inch or thicker, place it on top of the stud and take a couple whacks with a medium size hammer...not a large one, you want to "shock" it not overpower it, and not hit the stud directly with the hammer. After a few hits, take a brass hammer or the regular hammer if you don't care abour marring the spindle casting, and hit the casting on the side in the area of where the stud goes through...this sends shock waves through the area where the stud is jammed in and helps loosen it. After a few hits, go back to the stud again. It may take 5-ten cycles of this (or more...just be patient and don't destroy anything) and then you'll hear it when it goes. You will see the spindle casting pressed up against the nut now. This is all a bit clumsy on the top joint but it works.

      With it loose, jack the car by the a-arms now and unscrew the nuts using ALL NORMAL CAUTIONS. If they won't come but instead makes the stud spin then put some pressure on forcing the spindle casting down on the stud again to hold it as neccesary. After that it's just like normal spindle removal.
      ...

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      • #4
        Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

        WAIT!!! dont hit the stud man, back the nut off about 5 turns and hit the spindle with a big hammer on the outside right where the taper goes thru for the ball joint, it will pop right apart without damaging anything, this also works on tie rods too.
        2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
        First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
        2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
        2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

          Different strokes...I don't mean to hit the stud directly...but note that unscrewing the nut very far increses the chance that when the stud is blowing out, it gets enough inertia to strip the nut away when it hits it.

          btw I've had bad luck with old stock calipers (you can swap 'em for rebuilt) and anything except NEW master cylinders. Avoid re-built ones of those.

          And one of the scariest things I've ever had happen to me was when a guy who didn't know what he was doing but just trying to help nearly got his forehead split open by a flying suspension part. It left a grease streak on his skin as it flew past. So be careful.
          ...

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          • #6
            Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

            Originally posted by cal67ss396
            I have a stock disc brake set up that I got a few years ago that I now want to install on my car. Which is a 67 Chevelle with a big block it currently has the stock drums on the front with a manual master cylinder.

            My question is I don't really want to use a power booster so with that being said I notice that alot of guys run the Strange type master cylinder on their cars. Will this master cylinder work on my Chevelle or is there a stocker that I can buy from the local parts store that will do the same thing. Also will I have to run a prop valve with this set-up.
            My discs are off a 71 Olds Vista Cruiser. The master is a manual unit from a 68 Chevy pickup (if I remember correctly). It works great. Like this:

            The official Bangshift garage door guru. Just about anything can be built using garage door parts, trust me.

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            • #7
              Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

              Originally posted by JeffMcKC
              WAIT!!! dont hit the stud man, back the nut off about 5 turns and hit the spindle with a big hammer on the outside right where the taper goes thru for the ball joint, it will pop right apart without damaging anything, this also works on tie rods too.
              <<<<<<<BIIIGGGG HAMMER LOL

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              • #8
                Re: A-body Front Disc Swap (Master Cylinder Question)

                Originally posted by dagenesta
                Originally posted by cal67ss396
                I have a stock disc brake set up that I got a few years ago that I now want to install on my car. Which is a 67 Chevelle with a big block it currently has the stock drums on the front with a manual master cylinder.

                My question is I don't really want to use a power booster so with that being said I notice that alot of guys run the Strange type master cylinder on their cars. Will this master cylinder work on my Chevelle or is there a stocker that I can buy from the local parts store that will do the same thing. Also will I have to run a prop valve with this set-up.
                My discs are off a 71 Olds Vista Cruiser. The master is a manual unit from a 68 Chevy pickup (if I remember correctly). It works great. Like this:

                OOOO. I like those valve covers.

                BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                Resident Instigator

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