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Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

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  • Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

    Who uses what and why?

    I've noticed that Jegs's push lock hose now says it isn't recommended for fuel? That seems weird to me.
    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

  • #2

    Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

    Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

    It will not pass NHRA tech but the areoquip will from what I have been told
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
    2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
    2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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    • #3

      Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

      Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

      The AQP-FC-332 textile braid socketless hose is legal last I checked. My '65 Galaxie is plumbed all out with -8 and a 15 gallon aluminum cell in the trunk with a Holley Blue and regulator. The nomenclatures can be confusing too, the number you order will be like FCN0820.



      But it will still say FC-332 on it. There is black like in the picture, and blue. FCN is black and FCV is blue. The next is the AN size 08 means -8, and the number after that is the length of hose. So FCV0820 is blue FC-332 Aeroquip socketless hose, -8 AN, 20 ft long. FCN0820 is black FC-332 Aeroquip socketless hose, -8 AN, 20 ft long. It is NHRA and IHRA, NSS legal to plumb the whole car. It can't be run in the driveshaft tunnel, and it has to be enclosed in a steel sleeve at the bell housing area. Just good sense really.

      Hope this helps.

      I hope they haven't changed the rules. It has been common on all of the circle tracks, sprints, minis and late models for awhile. To me it is about the safest choice you can make in a wreck as long as you have a master cut-off for the electrical system, and a roll-over valve in the fuel cell.

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      • #4

        Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

        Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

        I have the blue Aeroquip that I am using in the Ranger, but was cruising the Jeg's site and was surprised to see that it said that about fuel.

        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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        • #5

          Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

          Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

          I have the blue Aeroquip that I am using in the Ranger, but was cruising the Jeg's site and was surprised to see that it said that about fuel.

          I just got off the phone with Pat at NHRA tech, and the FC-332 is legal end to end. At the bell housing it has to have a 1/8" thick steel sleeve around it, and it has to be run inside the frame rails and or body supports, but not in the trans tunnel.

          Comment


          • #6

            Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

            Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

            IMHO

            I would stick with whatever brand name hose and fittings.
            I saw alot of car burn up last year and most had the cheap or no name junk.
            Aeroquip or XRP. Saving a few buck isn't worth it.

            Comment


            • #7

              Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

              Re: Pushlock/twist-tite hose VS. Steel braided hose

              IMHO

              I would stick with whatever brand name hose and fittings.
              I saw alot of car burn up last year and most had the cheap or no name junk.
              Aeroquip or XRP. Saving a few buck isn't worth it.
              I would definitely go with Aeroquip myself, they are top quality textile braid. I figure about 4-5 years it will be time to replace it, but safety is number one, and knowing that you aren't drawing a bunch of corrosion into the carb(s) is another. And plumbing the whole car really wasn't that expensive, I have -8 hose and nice cool volume all of the time. The aluminum cell acts like a big cool can back in the trunk. The only heat I am getting is from the regulator (14 down to 5 PSI) to the carb, but it is half what it was with steel lines. It is a deadhead system, but when I put the roller motor in it its going be plumbed for a return.

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