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  • High volume/ high pressure...

    Most Chevy people put a "high volume" oil pump in their engines whenever they get the chance, it seems.
    A Pontiac buddy of mine says that they don't make a "high volume" oil pump for Pontiacs, only a "high pressure".

    I have a layman's understanding of hydraulics, pressure, volume, flow, and so on... but the difference between high volume and high pressure pumps has me a bit confused. I've been told that the "high pressure" (sbc) pump just has a stiffer spring inside it, though I'm not 100% sure what that means. I've also been told that the bearing clearances (and oil thickness) determine the oil pressure, not the pump.

    I realize the physical difference between a high volume and a standard pump is the size of the rotors that suck/force the oil into the system; larger surface area sucks/forces more oil... but if you force more oil through the same size hole, wont that raise your pressure as well as your volume?

    I'm under the impression that high volume pumps aren't a good idea if you are doing the land speed thing, as they can suck your oil pan dry, but "extra insurance" if you have a drag car that only blasts high rpm's for short periods. I also understand how and why a high volume oil pump is a greater drag on the system, reducing the power output of the engine.

    I'd like to know if a "high volume" oil pump is ever really necessary in a real world engine with proper bearing clearances.
    Is it completely unecessary unless your bearings are wearing out and you wish to postpone a rebuild? I realize that each brand, type, or generation of motor has different requirements. My curiosities lie in the small block chevy... but I'm certainly willing to learn about what any engine guru has to say about other engines.


    Your thoughts...
    Your experiences...

    Please discuss:

  • #2
    Re: High volume/ high pressure...

    No more high volume for me. I had a fresh engine with a HV/HP oil pump that would fill the valve covers faster than it would drain back. I had to be pretty careful not to hold it at high RPM for much more than the length of a 1/4 mile pass.

    That probably kept me out of a lot of high-speed trouble...

    So, I'll run high pressure, but stick with the standard volume. My $.02
    The official Bangshift garage door guru. Just about anything can be built using garage door parts, trust me.

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    • #3
      Re: High volume/ high pressure...

      yea the stock SBC oil pump is fine, trick is not to force theoilthroughthe system so fast it can't pickup some of the heat on the way by the parts.

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      • #4
        Re: High volume/ high pressure...

        High pressure pumps have a higher bypass pressure, so they only show that high pressure when the oil is cold.

        High volume pumps move more oil, so they usually make more actual pressure...more oil forced thru the same "leaks" results in higher pressure.

        You need enough oil flow to keep all the parts lubricated. The thing is that it's usually hard to tell where that limit is that the parts are not getting lubed...so it's usually wise to err on the side of safety, and get more oil flow if you're going to rev the engine high.

        Most of us can't afford to do the destructive testing that will tell us exactly how much pressure/flow we really need.

        I think Nick Scavo said "you don't need any oil pressure thru the lights"
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        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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        • #5
          Re: High volume/ high pressure...

          i heard a engine builder say 10 psi per 1000 operating rpm . ever seen what to much oil pressure will do to cam, dist gears ,or the roll pin holdingthe dist gear on. seen race motors you could not even think of revving up cold start because when you blip the throttle cold it would shear roll pin holding dist gear on . when you peg a oil pressure gauge on cold start you think ya got a little much pressure?????????????????

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          • #6
            Re: High volume/ high pressure...

            You guys could just run a Buick and tune the External Oil pump to the engine's needs ;) I've done the HV test, the Booster Plate test, and on the 231 the HV and Booster Plate test. Takes about 15 minutes to swap them around. They even make an adjustable pressure regulator, but I've just stuck to the springs.

            Turns out my Centurion likes the straight forward standard pump installation and 10w-30 fossil oil.
            Escaped on a technicality.

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