Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

[TheSilverBuick]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Only the TBI injection, which is basically a carb with electronically controlled metering.

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

So is Michael saying an individual port EFI makes more HP than a carb because dry air is in the distribution manifold? A 4-hole and carb are similar regarding wet fuel distribution, no? I don't want to get this subject mixed up so when we say "dry air" we are only talking about a TPI? ???

[Dynoroom]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

One thing you might be forgetting is the air is dry in the intake ;) turns corners better that way.

Agree about dry air but the 4 hole injector is wet fuel, no? I missed the point. ???

No it's not (most of the time) most systems have the injectors in the runners near the intake port, do some searching. The throttle body injection is only good for low hp engines ~500 max.

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Ok, Mike. I got it and we are in sync. I wasn't sure if you were talking about both 4-hole or individual port EFI. You were talking about dry air distribution to an individual port. So which makes more power at a high end rpm range (6,500-9,000)? Carb or EFI? Some say a carb does? Do you agree? Dry air has less inertia than wet air. Even though a individual port EFI has dry air to it will its VE be as great as a carb ramming wet air down the pike?

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Scott: since you were on your back for 3 days chasing salt-caused problems; can you share some ideas you learned? What brand are good or bad connectors? Lube for connections? what kind?

Mike: If this thread hasn't bored you and are still here; how do you salt-proof your EFI?

All help is more than appreciated . . .

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?


RACE GAS AND THE O2 Sensor
I was tempted to start a new thread, but by now, you guys are probably tired of seeing my byline on the home page. ;D Still appropiate for this thread and not hijacking ...

Since the Wide Band (WB) is an integral part of the EFI feed-back loop, how have you solved the death-rate of the O2 sensor? My understanding is that lead kills it in short order. Usually, in less than 50 hours. Do other fuels (methanol or nitro) have the same effect? What is your experience? TIA

[Dynoroom]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

RACE GAS AND THE O2 Sensor
I was tempted to start a new thread, but by now, you guys are probably tired of seeing my byline on the home page. ;D Still appropiate for this thread and not hijacking ...

Since the Wide Band (WB) is an integral part of the EFI feed-back loop, how have you solved the death-rate of the O2 sensor? My understanding is that lead kills it in short order. Usually, in less than 50 hours. Do other fuels (methanol or nitro) have the same effect? What is your experience? TIA

1. I have a Fel-Pro system on my race car. Later the company became Speed-Pro, then FAST, now FAST XFI. I got box 003 from John Meany as he was the designer of that system with Lance Ward if memory serves, that was back in '96.

2. O2 sensors last a lot longer than they say, the one I use on the dyno is 5 years old now.

3. If your worried about it take it out after you tune it!

4. I've used the one on the dyno for alky & nitro too, no issues yet...

5. Because I have an engine shop I've run many types of EFI systems. AEM, FAST, Carbine, EFI Technologies, Accel DFI, Motec, etc.
Hope that answers some of your questions.
As I type this I have and 540" Arias Chevy/Hemi with an 8-71 on the dyno right now. The customer went to the parts store to get a v-belt for the water pump. This engine is running a FAST XFI system.

[dieselgeek]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Scott: since you were on your back for 3 days chasing salt-caused problems; can you share some ideas you learned? What brand are good or bad connectors? Lube for connections? what kind?

Mike: If this thread hasn't bored you and are still here; how do you salt-proof your EFI?

All help is more than appreciated . . .

;D

best advice? make it SERVICEABLE. Things I have run into: first, sometimes soldering is NOT better than a simple crimp connector, so long as the crimp was done with the right tool, using the right connector. Solder joints can fail if they flex or vibrate. Terminal / barrier strips are handy if located properly. Always run an appropriate fuse as close to the battery or power supply, as possible!

Next? grounding!! all grounds are not created equal!! ground your "noisy stuff" (lights, pumps, ignitions) AWAY from the grounds for your "quiet stuff" (delicate electronics). Same with the power supply - I did a lot of research on OEM electrical system design, they're very careful to avoid "power coupling" and try to put the noisy devices primary power as close to the alternator output as possible, while powering the delicate stuff, they go as close to the battery positive as possible. IF no alternator on the engine, then use separate power and ground runs to the battery. Make sure the block has a LOT of grounding to the chassis, and the chassis has a THICK grounding to the battery. 99% of the time, even on carb'd applications, CDI ignition problems can be attributed to bad grounding or power coupling problems.

Do you have a copy of the Bosch Automotive Handbook? It's right up your alley!! check it out, published by Bentley. It's a good read on these topics.


-scott

[Dynoroom]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Mike: If this thread hasn't bored you and are still here; how do you salt-proof your EFI?
All help is more than appreciated . . .

A good harness will cost more than the EFI system.
I also put everything in a box...

The box in the right of the picture in bolted into the passenger side of the car and carries the ECU, MSD, fuses, Relays etc. even has it's own battery. Works for me. ;)

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

Because I have an engine shop I've run many types of EFI systems. AEM, FAST, Carbine, EFI Technologies, Accel DFI, Motec, etc.
Hope that answers some of your questions.
As I type this I have and 540" Arias Chevy/Hemi with an 8-71 on the dyno right now. The customer went to the parts store to get a v-belt for the water pump. This engine is running a FAST XFI system.

Invaluable experience! The only thing I can offer is a cup of coffee at the Red Flame! . . . ;D

[Saltfever]

Re: Nitro and EFI: Will it work?

. . . . best advice? make it SERVICEABLE. Things I have run into: first, sometimes soldering is NOT better than a simple crimp connector, so long as the crimp was done with the right tool, using the right connector. Solder joints can fail if they flex or vibrate. Terminal / barrier strips are handy if located properly. .

Amen to that! In a former job we ran fatigue experiments on (1)stranded wire, (2)solid core wire, (3)and soldered connections. Stranded wire always survived longer than any other type in a fatiguing environment. The soldered joint failed sooner than a solid core copper wire! The soldering converted a stranded wire to an equivalent solid wire but was also more brittle than an annealed Copper wire. I almost never solder a connection on a vehicle.