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  • Clutches

    I've done it "just because that's how I've always done it"
    But seriously, why not simply knock the glaze off the pressure plate and the flywheel and only replace the clutch disk itself? (this is presuming no hot spots)

    I know the BMW needs clutch - however, it's not slipping, it's just worn -, but honestly, I don't want to spend $1000 on parts for a car I'm going to sell 6 months later.... and everyone knows my "if you don't get out of my driveway" warranty (I'll help push after I put my money away).
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 8, 2014, 08:00 AM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

  • #2
    My credo has been "do it like I'd do it for myself" which means I won't under-do something (that for example I thought I was going to sell), or...over-do it.

    If the wear is even and flat and as you say no hot spots, yep I would just knock the glaze down (again, evenly) so a new disc can get the right bite and call it good.
    ...

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    • #3
      Right or wrong, I scotchbrite the glaze/haze off my flywheel every time I've had the engine out. Some day I might get it turned.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #4
        You can do that, it may or may not work well, depending on the condition of the parts. If the parts cost more than your time is worth to do it over, give it a shot.
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        • #5
          I've scotchbrited the surfaces and installed used clutch discs.. In a pinch, used a slowing disc (new) on the angle grinder which was a little rough... Sometimes when the parts place is closed and used is all that is there, gotta get creative.. .. Everything flat and without hot spots, a simple scotchbriting would suffice.. I haul stupidly heavy loads with my flatbed, deglazed flywheel and pressure plate and a used disk off another rig that had a windowed block..11 or 12 years now..

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          • #6
            I can imagine why the "replace clutch and pressure plate" came from the days when the arms on the weights would wear out - but there's no way the springs on the clutches suffer more abuse than the valve train; so the question. I'm sure Mr. Square exhaust will think it's stupid, but that's just him looking in a mirror.
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • #7
              Nice flat DA and call it a day.it will take about a week of driving to get the turned marks.

              Last flywheel I cut was the one I got from a junkyard off a truck engine so I could use a bigger clutch and have less pedal pressure. they didnt turn them 25 years ago, as long as that car has sat, needed to go to a surface grinder.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                I can imagine why the "replace clutch and pressure plate" came from the days when the arms on the weights would wear out - but there's no way the springs on the clutches suffer more abuse than the valve train; so the question. I'm sure Mr. Square exhaust will think it's stupid, but that's just him looking in a mirror.
                I have taken my die grinder to both pressure plates and flywheels before being the broke ass person that I am.
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                • #9
                  only reason they started replacing the whole works, is it's better for the shops, they make more money(parts mark up) and less chance of a car coming back and having to be redone.. and the biggie,, shops that don't have returns, get good word of mouth.. That said.

                  The small scotch disc 2.5-3" that go on an air drill(any drill) for cleaning gaskets off.. works great..
                  Last edited by NewEnglandRaceFan; May 14, 2014, 02:04 AM.

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                  • #10
                    the pressure plate may have taken the disc.

                    always replace the plate and disc together.

                    the first I have seen in my own eyes to possibly just replace the disc is one of those stage one Spec clutches. they went as far as realistic can to stay friendly to many city shifts, yet hard clamping..
                    if going oem plate and just replace disc, kiss another disc goodbye sooner than later.

                    unpainted pressure plate (clutch can) is another reason to chuck it with a zoot suit on...
                    and lastly the millions of oem clutches cranked out like cupcakes, there is lucky to see 1 in 10000 balanced exactly.

                    "new old stock" is another reason to give up oem entirely.. they lose just sitting around.

                    flywheel is the only keeper, depending on the "rock paper scissor" deciphering. (The flywheel should be bigger and heavier than all other parts to keep it.)

                    ..and a guru, depending on weight of flywheel, can tell you alot about what clutch can be used.
                    I still refer to the crazyass ten geared subaru..
                    43 pounds in the flywheel, a company like Spec got it right. Treat big as it does...with parts given.
                    Last edited by Barry Donovan; May 14, 2014, 04:23 AM.
                    Previously boxer3main
                    the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
                      only reason they started replacing the whole works, is it's better for the shops, they make more money(parts mark up) and less chance of a car coming back and having to be redone.. and the biggie,, shops that don't have returns, get good word of mouth.. That said.

                      The small scotch disc 2.5-3" that go on an air drill(any drill) for cleaning gaskets off.. works great..

                      Absolutely. Its similar to brakes. You can simply throw a new set of pads in and the car will still stop, but the more (of the recommended stuff) you do, the the better they will work without squeaks, pulsing, etc.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by yellomalibu View Post


                        Absolutely. Its similar to brakes. You can simply throw a new set of pads in and the car will still stop, but the more (of the recommended stuff) you do, the the better they will work without squeaks, pulsing, etc.
                        yes but, we resurface the flywheel - why wouldn't simply resurfacing the pressure plate suffice?
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • #13
                          Can you buy just the disk? The last time I had brake rotors turned they warped right back in short order. I put pads on, if the rotors look bad or dont stop smoothly I just replace them. Is there a way to mount the pressure plate in the resurfacer? I have never had a flywheel resurfaced. The one out of my 89, and the one that came with the 5 speed kit I put in the 79 had small cracks in the surface, I replaced them.
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                          • #14
                            Most clutch kits I've seen give you the clutch and can together.
                            As for resurfacing, some shops use a lathe, some a Blanchard grinder.
                            There's a definite difference in surface finish, but both work about the same.
                            I straight edge the flywheel, if it's fairly flat I use 60 grit on a DA at med speed.

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