I'm just thinkig turbo heat and it's going to be looped right in front of my trans pan and passenger floor board/firewall.
Yep you have to imagine that whole pipe as being a big red-hot-glowing radiant heat source and figure what that would do to whatever component it's near, including your oil. I have similar routing on my on-again/off-again '67 Camaro project, the solution here (besides 1/8" wall steel pipe) is heat shielding between the pan and pipe that will get some airflow to each. I imagine it's better for performance to not have anything including air leaching off heat energy between the heads and turbo also but it's a matter of choices and compromises as always.
I agree that header wrap is wrong for steel pipe, but it's awesome for stainless headers.
With that said, define "cheap" - since it costs ~ 50 a roll, and a normal header job takes 2 1/2 rolls - you're within $50 of getting the headers ceramic coated and solving the issue in a different way.
I've heard many bad things, but wonder if it is such a bad thing...why is it so widley used. There are many different types as well, fiberglass, titanium, copper coated, composites, lava rock. I wonder if the advancement in material technology has helped eliminate the fabled issuses wraping your pipes cause.
I have a spacer on the carb so that is covered, I suppose there would be a way to fab up a heat shielf for the headers but that would look like shit. I've read a few articles about the carb heat shields and they seem to have been pretty common way back when. I may go this route, I do have some aluminum and snips and time so maybe I will fab one up for the front bowl....I have an idea in my head...
the 1/4 1/2 and 3/4 is all 45.00 a sheet. Pretty rigid stuff the way they glue the honeycomb between the two thin sheets. if you install it with the honeycomb horizontal you would also get some cooling air going thru the fins. I have actually anodized the stuff before and at this cost, you can almost make an interior engine cover to separate the headers from the path of the fuel. The plastic spacers are good for the heat transfer from the intake, but I like that holly kit that has the extended plastic that stops the heat at the bowls too.
Their shipping is awesome too, they use backup board to sandwich the material for ups. shipping is honest and very reasonable too.
Last edited by anotheridiot; May 20, 2014, 08:11 AM.
There is a shield that fits under the carb that is larger than the carb.. That works... We use the layered wood ones.. They work great! .. I have seen headers on derby cars glow red about 6"-2' from the heads.... Exhaust manifolds soak heat, headers are supposed to remove that soaking, wrapping will mimic heat soak?
Ron, you and I's is some smart fellers, cuz I did wrap the line. However, I am going to spring for some sleeving insulation rather than the wrap. We use similar stuff on the aero-planes and it works well. I also wonder if the heat from the engine is boiling the fuel in the bowls....thats why I am looking at a heat shield for that as well....we have a high ethanol fuel out here, I kinda thought the spacer woulda helped...not so much.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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