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Brake help....WTF is the issue here?

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  • #31
    If you don't fix the rest of the brake system, then you probably need a dual master cylinder. If you fix everything else, and keep it maintained, then a dual cylinder is not so helpful.
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    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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    • #32
      I successfully failed to even lift the hood on the truck today....tomorrow I attack!
      That which you manifest is before you.

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      • #33
        You got a lot of travel to recover from, eh?
        My fabulous web page

        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Brian Lohnes View Post
          I successfully failed to even lift the hood on the truck today....tomorrow I attack!

          Lazy bum!!
          BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

          Resident Instigator

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          • #35
            SACKER! Setting a bad example for your followers! ..... I totally understand the registering/not be able to register kills ambition! .. My dualie crew cab got back burnered for the same reason... Hope to start in Sept when derby is OVER!

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            • #36
              I'm not much help on the single pot master cylinder systems, I'd second getting duel pot and starting over. I've had problems before with rubber lines collapsing inside and thatrod not being reset in the master cylinder and not giving pressure to work the front brakes. And if you don't have a booster on the master is fix that too.
              Previously HoosierL98GTA

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              • #37
                If the booster has been wet with brake fluid it's VERY suspect - the fluid can eat up the big ol' diaphragm. And it's a good idea to change the lines as has been suggested. Done there been that......

                Dan

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                • #38
                  check the feed hole in the master that feeds the piston from the bowl.. dirt blocking it. will give you zero pedal.. iirc this tank is a stick.. so with the silly low gears.. I'd say the single pot master is fine and no real need for a dual.. as you can down shift to stop if needed, and then the e brake..
                  you did bench bleed the master?? might want to try that again...
                  if the rubber lines are swelling when pushing the pedal you'll see it.. if you watch as someone pushes pedal
                  if rubber lines are collapsing internally, you'll have a pedal but no brakes
                  booster that's failed you'll still have a pedal just no boost...
                  g.m. truck masters, have different depth piston plunger type pin that connects the booster to the back of the master piston.. compaired to a manual brake master.. wrong one and you'll never get a pedal.. and with you having issues after parts store master.. I'd be eye'n this.. as you'll get fluid movement when bleeding brakes but not enough piston movement to make enough piston throw to make pressure and move the shoes enough if at all. or it could be just a new master that the rebuilder put the piston seal in backwards..
                  good luck..

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                  • #39
                    Sooooo....did you ever figure out what the deal is?

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                    • #40
                      The push bumper was lonely. It happens when a wrecker sits to long.

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