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  • GM Starter and Alternator Question

    I really need to get me another car. I spend way too much time working on my friends junk. Okay, enough of the rant...

    Here's a couple of question for the GM guys. First question...What internally regulated alternator has the highest amp rating and what vehicle could I get it from? This alternator will go into a 1971 Chevy C10 with a 350. The truck is already wired for an internally regulated alternator, but the one that's in it is a POS. The lights (internal and external have a noticable flicker while the thing is at idle and it barely keeps the battery charged. I've checked the wiring and it's all good (the guy who did the installation did a really good job). I did a voltage check an it's putting out around 13.5 volts, but I didn't do an amp check (didn't want to put a break in the wiring to insert an amp meter). The amp meter in the truck barely reflects when I rev the engine.

    Second Question...Along the same lines, what late model starter is best and will work with an earlier model engine like the one in the truck? The starter that's in now suffers from heat-soak like no one's business. I remembe the later model starters were more resistant to heat-soak and was looking to go that route, but can't remember which ones will work. I don't know if the truck has the 154 or the 163 tooth flywheel and neither does my friend. Also, what wiring changes, additions, deletions, or whatever would I have to do to make the later model starter work in the earlier model truck (if any)?

    This truck is a true beater, but runs like a dream. I've tried to buy the truck, but my friend won't sell it. I do get to use it whenever I need it though, hence why I work on it with him all the time. I figured if anyone could answer these questions, it would be my fellow car junkies around here. I know most of you like to scrounge junkyards like I do and have probably already done this. Any help and advice you can give me will be much appreciated! ;D

  • #2
    Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

    Not sure I can help too much but here goes. The alternators with interal regulator came in a wide varity of amp outputs. I think I had a 81 Chevrolet wagon with every option available including a diesel engine and it had a 100 amp alternator on it. Maybe 105 or so. As for the starters unless you get into the gear reduction starters, and I'm not sure they will work with your flywheel, the best to use is the high torque. You can tell them by the fact they have a spacer between the terminal coming out of the starter housing and the lower terminal on the soleniod. These were on 454 and 455 inch engine and will about start anything if the cables and battery are good. On the alternator, the amp output should be stamped on the round part of the housing. Good luck with the truck. I drive a 61 that looks like a bunch of crap, but has a L82 Corvette engine and a 700 trans and a 3.73 posi. It also has suspension from a 87 truck complete with control arms, steering and box and sway bar and disc brakes. Makes a nice sleeper.
    Jim N.

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    • #3
      Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

      This website has got a lot of info & mega-low prices.


      It'd probably be quicker, cheaper & easier to get both

      from them with their guarantee out of a box, versus

      the time & effort scrounging, rebuilding, etc.


      Have visited their public facility & am running their equipment

      in 4 varying vehicles.Top notch/high-quality pieces w/incredible

      low prices. 100%-positive feedback. Lightning fast shipping.

      Nicest group of very knowledgeable & friendly helpful staff around.

      (Mention you're in the military & you'll likely get a "G.I." discount.) ;)


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      • #4
        Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

        I have a Delco Remy 120 amp alternator on my Impala. I bought it at a swap meet, but the part # on the box is 1101308. Don't know if it's accurate.

        I have an aftermarket 100 amp one wire alt on my Caprice's 454 replacing the externally reg alt. It works great. This is probably the more logical replacement for your truck.


        As for the starter. Factory high torque starters are easy to spot by the one inch copper tube or rod that sticks out of the solenoid and grounds to the starter case. Non-high torque starters have a 1/4 inch copper rod. See the pic below.



        Check what kind of starter mounting set up you have (are the bolts diagnal or straight) then get a starter for a vette. They always have a high torque even in the low compression smog era. Vettes also get larger higher volume fuel pumps.
        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

        Resident Instigator

        sigpic

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        • #5
          Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

          Here's the LT4-style mini-starter: --> http://www.db-starter-alternator.com...00%20-%206562?

          Here's the alternator page: --> http://www.db-starter-alternator.com.../?sck=16872313

          Get them to help choose the correct unit & amperage for the intended usage. You can go 200a, but may not "need" it.

          (Don't forget to upgrade the alt pwr wire to the battery) --- HTH

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          • #6
            Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

            the original ammeters on those trucks are a weird shunt type...they have fuses under the hood somewhere....and if you have 13.5v it's probably charging ok. Might have some flaky wiring in the main power circuit somewhere? although it's possible the alternator is flaky.


            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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            • #7
              Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

              One easy cure for the heat soak is installing a remote solenoid. Mounting a ford type solenoid by the battery or on the firewall has always helped me out.

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              • #8
                Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

                If you will look at the wires running along the radiator support right next to the fender on each side should be an inlne fuse. If either or both of these fuses are blown the ammeter wont work. Also due to there location they sometimes loose contact inside the fuse holder. The ammeter reads the voltage drop across this length of wire between the fuses and interprets it as amps.
                By the starter having a heat sink problem is it not working at all when it gets hot or is it just turning slowly? If it fails to work at all then this tech article I wrote a while back will cure it. http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...tart_Problems/
                If its turning slowly it might just need more amperage. Make sure the battery cables are large enough and use a 800 cranking amp battery. The cheapo 550 cranking amp batterys dont cut it in a lot of cases.

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                • #9
                  Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

                  Thanks everyone for the advice. The ammeter works as advertised. That's what led me to the alternator issue. A couple of posts jogged my memory about the Ford solenoid. I remember my dad doing the conversion to alot of our GM vehicles when I was a kid. I'll probably do the coversion on my friend's truck this weekend. I also did a little hunting on the internet and came across this article by MAD Enterprises concerning GM internally regulated alternators.

                  http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml

                  An alternator for a 79 Buick Regal with a 301 should do the trick. It's a 63 amp alternator and should be more than sufficient for the truck. I'll upgrade the wiring and fusible link to handle the extra load, and I'll give the ammeter wiring another once-over just to make sure everything is good to go. I may even do away with the ammeter altogether and go with a voltmeter.

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                  • #10
                    Re: GM Starter and Alternator Question

                    The way I understand it the output of the alternator is determined by the stator installed. I installed what is supposed to be a 100amp stator in mine. I dont have a amp gauge to check it but it keeps up with all my power accesories and AC just fine.

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