I always set the backlash a little on the tight side on the initial assembly. I think the last time I did mine it was .008. I figured after a couple of hard launches, it would settle in and end up just about right.
I was surprised by the amount of backlash in the gears of Quick Performance 9" rear end I got from them. It was very cleanly assembled, and I assume they know what they are doing (came highly recommended from folks here). I didn't measure it, but it sure had a lot more play in it than I have left in my gears, and I've set mine to ~.015".
I was taught .011-.013 for street cars and .009-.011 for racers, and never go outside those specs no matter how may shims you gotta swap out. The only diffs I've worked on were 8.8's, so there may be different specs for others but I wouldn't think the variance would be huge.
Here's a quick and dirty explanation of the clutch trick for anyone that's interested.
The spec I use for fms was .008-.012. The last time I redid the clutch pack on my 89 did SCSCSCS. Same number of clutches but a diffrent order. I thought the steel on steel did not make since. And I did not want to buy two kits.
I hit the link button and it would not let me post until I gave it a website
For derby rears, I give them no play.. As tight as I can without binding... Reason is reverse-forward many times is at rpm..
Street and long distance rears need more play to grow with heat..
If it s too tight, it will bind if it grows..
Derby rears do get warm in 15-45 min of hitting..
I have broken and seen rears broken when set too loose..
Yes, best i can tell it good, the car has other noises (water pump or FED) and general older car sounds but no clunks or whines from the rear far as I can tell I made the frist drive Friday
Last edited by Russell; January 5, 2015, 03:15 PM.
If it's rotaty noise, I'd go with idler or alternator ... all the Ford junk I've had, a noisy water pump without a Valdeez size coolant leak means it's out of water.
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