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E85- EFI fuel treatment

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  • E85- EFI fuel treatment

    Ok,

    Getting my rig (EFI on E85) ready for first start up for the season. motor and system was fresh from last summer with only a few runs. I didn't do much to winterize it other than draining the fuel cell. Anyway, after changing oil and plugs, I removed the in-line filter (100 um screen) for the first time and noticed some clear residue (kinda looks like snot) in the filter. It wasn't severe, but noticeable and it seems to redissolve once I reintroduce raw fuel. I cleaned the screen and blew out the lines. I did not add any fuel treatment last year when I installed the new system and converted to E85. I am still using the same braided fuel lines that I used with race gas as I was told they would be fine (although I plan to switch over to Teflon this winter). Now I am a tad concerned that this crap got to my injectors. I will not be sure until I try to fire after work. Should I add some fuel treatment? If so, what do you guys advise? Can you clean injectors otherwise W/o taking them out? Any other advice before I fire? I am thinking maybe add some ethanol-based fuel additive and recirculate the fuel pump for a minute or so prior to lighting it off?

    ed

  • #2
    E85 will dissolve many adhesives. We lost our first pump that way.

    We also had our injectors stick after they sat for a considerable period of time.

    Our current thinking is run gasoline through the system when you intend to let the car sit for any length of time.
    Last edited by Bob Holmes; May 11, 2015, 02:08 PM.
    I'm still learning

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    • #3
      I've had injectors stick with the run of the mill E10/15 gasoline left in them. A shot of carb cleaner brought them back to life. My guess with E85 is water absorption and corrosion on parts susceptible to corrosion.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #4
        I thought I did a fair amount of homework before converting over to E85. I bought a fuel lab pump and regulator that were specifically stated as being alcohol compatible. I have not used any adhesives or sealants on any part of the fuel system. I replaced the fuel cell foam with foam that was specific to alcohol and I have only been running premixed E85 that is cut with racing gas from Renegade fuels that is not seasonal. Looks like I should start adding some fuel stabilizer to the last gallon or so and circulating it through the system if its going to sit for more than a week. My injectors are hidden up into the bugcatcher to retain the nostalgic look and its a pain in the balls to get them out if I gotta clean um. we will see in a few hours if she comes to life.

        ed

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        • #5
          She fired no problem! I let her come up to temp and rapped it a few times.....purrs like a kitten.....a blown injected angry kitten drunk on alcohol

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          • #6
            Fantastic.
            I'm still learning

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            • #7
              Hold the phone. The car still starts and idles Ok but its acting lazy on WOT, stumbles a tad and even gives me a few pops (acting lean). The O2 sensor isn't showing anything too off but that could just be the ECU trying to compensate. Maybe I need to pull those injectors out just to be sure. What if I pull the leads off the fuel pump and spray carb cleaner into each injector line while performing the injector test mode of my megasquirt?

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              • #8
                I don't think that could hurt anything, I would do that first if the injectors are a PITA to remove.
                1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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                • #9
                  BIG PITA to remove. I think I will try.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ecorl View Post
                    What if I pull the leads off the fuel pump and spray carb cleaner into each injector line while performing the injector test mode of my megasquirt?
                    You technically don't even have to pull the fuel pump fuse/leads as in test mode there is an ON/OFF button for commanding the fuel pump, you can just leave it off. Though pulling the fuse is safer

                    The injectors in my Firebird are cast off's when I upgraded the Skylark to larger injectors, and four out of six were gummed up and not clicking in test mode. So I pulled them, sprayed them with some carb cleaner until they all clicked in test mode. I sprayed the working ones too figuring they likely have a bit of build up in them too. The story is I did revive four injectors using carb cleaner.
                    Escaped on a technicality.

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                    • #11
                      Ok yea I was going to ask you details of your cleaning procedure. The only advantage of my set up is that I should be able to perform the same kind of test and cleaning without removing them. Since the injectors are in the injector hat, I can open up the butterflies and visually see if they are spraying. And, since each line is coming off of a distribution block separately, its fairly easy for me to spray carb cleaner into the block, set my compressor to 43 PSI and just blow things through the distribution block while powering the injector test. Hope it works cause its going to take a few hours to get those damn things out of the hat. thanks ed

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                      • #12
                        If they are all currently spray, just some poorly, I can see that working well. If you have ones not spraying at all, I think you will need to get carb cleaner sprayed into the nozzle end to break up the gunk. I sprayed mine in both ends, and didn't bother installing the injector back into the bung or rail until it clicked when commanded.
                        Escaped on a technicality.

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                        • #13
                          Yup. I cant access the outboard side without removing them but hopefully the interim step will work. THANK YE SIR

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                          • #14
                            ok, cleaned them and blew them out as best as I could while still in the bugcatcher hat. I then connected them sequentially and listened to them under output test mode. They all seemed to click pretty well with no noticeable differences between them. Started her up and she sounds OK. Bliped the throttle a few times and seems to react better. No pops or hesitations. I think I will take her to the dyno as is and see what happens.

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