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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
    we were about to try a different intake again when my son decided to look down and see the injectors, two corners were spraying, 2 were dribbling. Put the first sniper back on and all 4 were spraying and guess what, it works again. Just like with the cam swap, super fat at start up again, fuel popping up off the throttle blades, out the rear throttle shaft.

    I am seeing a 522-361S replacement available now. Guess we give it a few weeks and see if she finds happiness tuning itself.
    dribbling is bad. I had that issue with FiTech in my FJ40 - that said, FiTech, when I told them the problem sent me new injectors and 2 spares (now you know why I'm conflicted in my relationship with them)

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  • anotheridiot
    replied
    we were about to try a different intake again when my son decided to look down and see the injectors, two corners were spraying, 2 were dribbling. Put the first sniper back on and all 4 were spraying and guess what, it works again. Just like with the cam swap, super fat at start up again, fuel popping up off the throttle blades, out the rear throttle shaft.

    I am seeing a 522-361S replacement available now. Guess we give it a few weeks and see if she finds happiness tuning itself.

    Leave a comment:


  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    put it on 1,2, 7 or 8. There are some people who run 8 sensors.... one is just fine.
    Eventually I am sure we will go to the intake with 8 injectors. Just using this as a learning curve. There is are a couple guy with a Pro Flow 1 setup, mainly less wiring, one for 300 one for 600 that I can see using all 8 to really fine tune, but its a way away. I figured there would be more heat in the Siamese cylinders that would probably read hotter, but I guess we will decide. The trans needs a little shim to bring everything up a bit, I think I got the front seal oil leak taken care of but the valve covers are still dripping, so we will probably drop a header and see what the huggers look like when we get it up this weekend. It struggles in first, but screams in second, so its little things now. Finally getting temperature so its getting closer.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
    well, vacuum seems to help. We were readjusting the rockers, knocked the check valve off the brake booster and it sounded like we cut a tire.
    Did find the block hugger headers we have had for 8 years or so, look like 1.5 to 2 1/4 collector, we can probably up that to 3" ball socket and get the O2 sensor about a foot away in stead of the long tube hooker headers. Do the math and 4 1.5 are the same volume as the 3" pipe so maybe enough?

    Do not know about just putting it in one tube. Just little advances as we go, trying to let it learn, but first fire up it was popping lean, tried to let it learn on its own but the exhaust was smoking within 3 minutes. I am sure there is a bunch of residue burning up in there, it is getting more of a hollow sound. Went back to new setup and tried to let it learn again but it will not enrichen enough to stop popping on its own, but still hesitates.
    put it on 1,2, 7 or 8. There are some people who run 8 sensors.... one is just fine.

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  • anotheridiot
    replied
    well, vacuum seems to help. We were readjusting the rockers, knocked the check valve off the brake booster and it sounded like we cut a tire.
    Did find the block hugger headers we have had for 8 years or so, look like 1.5 to 2 1/4 collector, we can probably up that to 3" ball socket and get the O2 sensor about a foot away in stead of the long tube hooker headers. Do the math and 4 1.5 are the same volume as the 3" pipe so maybe enough?

    Do not know about just putting it in one tube. Just little advances as we go, trying to let it learn, but first fire up it was popping lean, tried to let it learn on its own but the exhaust was smoking within 3 minutes. I am sure there is a bunch of residue burning up in there, it is getting more of a hollow sound. Went back to new setup and tried to let it learn again but it will not enrichen enough to stop popping on its own, but still hesitates.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

    I was asking where you installed it. Advanced, retarded?
    Comp cams grinds 4 degrees advanced in their cams - so 'straight up' which is, on a dial, 4 degrees advanced.... otherwise it doesn't clear the pistons....

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  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    It's the cam in the Corvette.
    I was asking where you installed it. Advanced, retarded?

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    It's the cam in the Corvette.

    Leave a comment:


  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    I'm racing my BBC with this cam XR292R 292/298 .666 lift and 110 duration and a Sniper. I wish I could eyeball your setup, but it does work.

    WITH THAT SAID, the IAC on mine has been a constant source of irritation because if it isn't exercised enough, it will stick
    we won a contest for Magnacore wires that is supposed to reduce the signal wires interference that short out the IAC, but we replaced that three times on the original unit.

    What did you install that cam at?

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I'm racing my BBC with this cam XR292R 292/298 .666 lift and 110 duration and a Sniper. I wish I could eyeball your setup, but it does work.

    WITH THAT SAID, the IAC on mine has been a constant source of irritation because if it isn't exercised enough, it will stick
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; April 2, 2022, 08:30 AM.

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  • anotheridiot
    replied
    well, I officially call bullshit on these things will run with any cam profile.

    Went with around .525 lift, 270 duration on a 114 LSA and the car was sucking vacuum like a new hoover. Ran about 5 seconds and died. Held finger over IAC and it ran better, the thing was just wide open all the time and had nothing to suck. When it did keep running, the headers all started to smoke. AFR was 19 area. So started over to let it learn and it quickly dropped to 13.5.

    Of course, haste made waste and I cut the upper radiator hose with the new alternator belt configuration so the night ended without getting her outside. we also moved the temperature sensor to the head, which might have helped, but really tried to limit the changes to learn what worked.

    I just wanted to update, let you know I do not feel like a complete failure anymore, but did all this tough stuff and bite on the simple radiator hose, so the idiot is still in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    I'd be interested in hearing the why... it's not like the air is reverting through the plenum.... not saying he's wrong, but I'd also have the MAP sensor displaying to verify what he's saying makes sense.... thumpr cams mess with the exhaust to give you that lumpy sound - so it DOES affect the O2 sensor, especially if it's too far downstream from the exhaust
    o2 is in the header side of the collector, so easily within 22". if it were any closer it would only be in one of the header tubes.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I'd be interested in hearing the why... it's not like the air is reverting through the plenum.... not saying he's wrong, but I'd also have the MAP sensor displaying to verify what he's saying makes sense.... thumpr cams mess with the exhaust to give you that lumpy sound - so it DOES affect the O2 sensor, especially if it's too far downstream from the exhaust

    Leave a comment:


  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Finally talked to a cam guy at Brian Tooley Racing, said the thumper cam we have is going to be making the MAP sensor read erratically making it think that it is always under power so it wants to keep adding fuel.

    I asked my son if there was a way to cheat the MAP sensor until we can get a different cam, like the terrorists in Die Hard 2 when they changed 0 elevation and drive planes into the ground. (Yeah, I am really ready for the high tech hot rodding). He thinks the entire scale could be moved, but looking at a day of 60 then back into the 40's and 50's so we probably wont be learning anything. The TKX should be here by then and give us time to spend while we are waiting for weather.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

    at least you explaining this helps make sense why the AFR looks good when it is running this rich.

    So, is it a 1976 chevy pickup truck that we need to put a piece of cardboard in front of the kick ass aluminum radiator to get heat in the motor?

    Is it even possible that fuel can cool an engine this much?

    We did check the thermostat, replaced it with a new 180. Just got a 195 to see if it would stay closed long enough where it gets to 195 then cools to 175 ish. I would just rather have a fun car to drive and use the battery to cool anti freeze with the kickass fan and shroud instead of an extra gallon of gas per 7 mile trip. Did all the thinkable things, like unscrew the sensors, (the sniper temp sensor is at the front of the block, the gauge is towards the rear) to see if there was an air pocket.

    We have tried to start over, let it learn on its own, but it always gets to the same rich result. How do you find out if an injector is just stuck open?
    sure - that said, I'd worry about hot spots.

    you'll see it dribbling when the motor is 'off' and only in one venturi
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; March 20, 2022, 08:06 AM.

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