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crank trigger set up

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  • CDMBill
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Yup, and the weirdness continues. I had a high RPM 3rd gear only miss very briefly at 6000 RPM that went away after, yes you guessed it, suspension tuning. Details to come after the autiposy tomorrow. No, it didn't break but I want to kill it sometimes. The 10.12 at 140 has suspended its sentance for now. :-\

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  • horsewidower
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Thanks for keeping us up to date.

    We had power coupled issues until the last rewire. We have so much shielded wire on the car now, its ridiculous. We separated the high voltage from the low voltage when we ground the sensors and went to the lug system, like the OEMs use, instead of the nice neat racecar block systems. The lugs look like ass compared to the neatness of the blocks, but is supposed to help with sensor offset issues. We basically tried to follow the directions in the Bosch Automotive Handbook.

    I assume the voltage swing is a drop in voltage?

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  • CDMBill
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Yes, I'll admit I've been lurking on this thread as we've worked through the power coupled noise issues I am having.

    The current setup is the black LS1 sensor GM P/N 12560228 oriented such that the attachment bolt hole comes before the sensor itself in terms of crank rotational direction and is therefore mounted 90 degrees away from the factory postion. Gap is .039, it puts out a pretty square wave which we are driving with 12 volts and the ground. The signal wire is connected to the EMS-Pro Tach In and we are using the VR input, inverted with 2 turns off base on the R28 pot inside the EMS unit.

    We are still chasing a brief mystery miss that occurs between 5800 and 620 and which we attribute to a vicious voltage swing we see under load at that RPM. More to come when its eliminated.

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  • dieselgeek
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    just got an email from Ricky

    He's got "vroom!"


    Way to go man, keep us posted on your tuning progress. And some other user here might like to discuss how/if your crank trigger is working OK. With much help, we figured out that the VR input might be the better choice on the EMS-pro for your LS1 sensor, if you have misfire / strange rev limit / going on. Let us know when you ease some load and RPM tuning,

    -Scott

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  • dieselgeek
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Low = 0. High = 5. Good question, sorry I didn't explain that...

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  • 93stang
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    It's a good idea to use your scope or voltmeter to make sure there's LOW voltage on the IGN A-B wires on the EMS before you hook them up.
    low voltage =5V or no volts

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  • dieselgeek
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Originally posted by horsewidower
    Originally posted by dieselgeek
    One HUGE thing I forgot: you MUST power the coils with a relay that is triggered by the Fuel Pump output. Otherwise, the coils will bake themselves when you first power them up. In other words, only have the coils powered up when the fuel pump runs.

    -scott
    Yep, I've got four smoked coils cause I didn't know this, and neither did the guy that was supposed to know.
    that's probably not because of the power wiring, but the "spark output inverted" state on the EMS itself. Those coils want LOW voltage at rest. It's a good idea to use your scope or voltmeter to make sure there's LOW voltage on the IGN A-B wires on the EMS before you hook them up.

    Sucks to boil those coils. they're awesome when they're working.

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  • 93stang
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    missing tooth period is at HIGH voltage

    OK had too reed again got it !

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  • 93stang
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    yes coil relay is controlled by fp relay


    my crank sensor connector is facing down (5.3 Chevy) harness connector plugs in direction of rotation

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  • horsewidower
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Originally posted by dieselgeek
    One HUGE thing I forgot: you MUST power the coils with a relay that is triggered by the Fuel Pump output. Otherwise, the coils will bake themselves when you first power them up. In other words, only have the coils powered up when the fuel pump runs.

    -scott
    Yep, I've got four smoked coils cause I didn't know this, and neither did the guy that was supposed to know.

    Leave a comment:


  • dieselgeek
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    That'll work fine. The question isn't the tooth mounting, anything will work if you config it right. The question is sensor orientation. If you are using a scope to test it, make sure the missing tooth period is at HIGH voltage - not low. If it's inverted, you can either turn the sensor 180 degrees on it's axis, or use the Opto-in for your tach input.

    One HUGE thing I forgot: you MUST power the coils with a relay that is triggered by the Fuel Pump output. Otherwise, the coils will bake themselves when you first power them up. In other words, only have the coils powered up when the fuel pump runs.

    -scott

    Leave a comment:


  • 93stang
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    I'm confused by your trigger settings. You won't use trigger returns, so those will be zero. You want to pick the TWO teeth that are 60 degrees before TDC of your cylinder pairs. If that means the cylinder pair for ign A is at 60 degrees BTDC when on tooth 36, then yes - you have it right.


    i mounted my sensor 9 teeth before missing tooth engine at tdc per msns extra manual here's linkhttp://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex....htm#wheeldecr scroll down to (Where to mount the sensor and wheel) is this right??

    Leave a comment:


  • Matt Cramer
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    Scott's covered the basics; I just have one thing to add. I happen to like trigger returns myself - they make for steadier cranking time. To use them, you simply set crank timing to Trigger Return and set the returns to the point where each cylinder is 10 degrees BTDC - or 5 numbers after the original trigger positions. I take it you're using an LSx sensor?

    Leave a comment:


  • 93stang
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    here`s link for coil connection [ftp]http://www.034motorsport.com/article_info.php?articles_id=161
    [/ftp


    used my scope too get the correct mounting of hall senor
    sensor is mounted 9 teeth before missing tooth
    so i would use time base not trigger return

    Leave a comment:


  • dieselgeek
    replied
    Re: crank trigger set up

    What did the diagram show for the coil wiring, that came with the coils? there's a link on his site. Post a pic or something and it'll be easier to help you. I don't commit coil terminals to memory - not even my favorites!

    I'm confused by your trigger settings. You won't use trigger returns, so those will be zero. You want to pick the TWO teeth that are 60 degrees before TDC of your cylinder pairs. If that means the cylinder pair for ign A is at 60 degrees BTDC when on tooth 36, then yes - you have it right.

    Dwell: Running, 4.0ms. Cranking, 5.0ms. Min discharge, .5ms.

    One thing that's not in the manual: you must ground the Optoin wire. Do you have a pic of how you mounted your sensor? it's *critical* that it's oriented properly. It doesn't go the way it mounts in the GM cars either, it must be turned 90 degrees from that. Best way to describe it is: the harness plugs into the sensor in the direction the engine is turning...

    Leave a comment:

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