So here's the plan ....

[dieselgeek]

what kind of lap top and cable ? someone else may be wondering about this as well

Any old laptop that works and runs some version of windows, avoid Vista if possible. Bonus points for one that had a 9-pin serial port, saves you from having to buy a USB-Serial adapter. Can be a Mac too. In fact - I was blown away how well Tuner Studio worked on CDMBill's macbook with the EMS-pro (which is an MS1).

[TheSilverBuick]

DIYautotune.com sells the USB adapters if you don't have a serial port. Best price on one too. TunerStudio runs off javascript, which is essentially what internet applications are.

The only trouble I had with Vista is the firmware loader didn't work right for me. Which IS a big deal on the first install, but otherwise I didn't have any issues with it.

[STINEY]

Guys, I'm a caveman.......but I've been following along with great interest trying to educate myself. I would really like to do the MS thing and learn the process as well.

Mind if I ask a rather simplistic question? On DYIautotune site, there is a MS-230-C and a MS-2357-C..........what is the difference?

[TheSilverBuick]

Those look like pre-assembled part numbers.

MS-230-C is MegaSquirt-2 (as opposed to 1 or 3)- 3.0 board - Complete (assembled)

MS-2357-C is MegaSquirt-2 (^^^^^^^^^^^^)- 3.57 board - Complete (assembled)

The difference in the boards is the size of the components. The 3.0 board is like mine where you see full sized resistors and capacitors, etc. The 3.57 board is the same except it's machine soldered and all the components are much much smaller. Cleaner look, less likely to have a bad solder joint, etc. Exact same software runs on each, and do exactly the same thing. You can't buy an unassembled 3.57.

*Oh and the 3.57 board has a second 9(?) pin connector on it for extra inputs and out puts, where the 3.0 board you have to make jumper wires from the board (which I've done for a knock sensor input on mine).

[STINEY]

Thanks Randall. The only difference I could see was the second port, glad to know I wasn't missing a larger part of the picture. There is hope for me yet...

(I would never have gotten the machine soldered thing, but it makes sense now.) I have no doubt I could assemble one, but knowing WHICH one to assemble was a mystery, its getting clearer now.

[TheSilverBuick]

You can't beat the 3.0 board. Simple and easy to modify. The 3.57 board is tougher to modify because the connections are smaller. Plus in the event you "happen" to short something out, replacing parts on the 3.0 board is much easier. What is also cool about the megasquirt 3.0 board (and I'm sure others) is how easy it is to trouble shoot bad connections (or not) on the board. Like say a sensor isn't reading, it's very easy to follow the electron path through the board and components from the plug to the processor. Like super simple. You learn all this on assembly because you assemble it pretty much one circuit at a time, so you know when something isn't working where to look on the board and what parts to check.

[TheSilverBuick]

The one thing that confused me the most by far are the ignition options. Then it turns out just install both, use jumpers to select what you want and just use the VR circuit practically no matter what the input signal is (pickup coil, coil negative, hall sensor, etc. because the VR circuit has the most resistors/protection).


(I think I got that right =p )

[oldsman71]

thanks for the info guys!!

[STINEY]

This site is like a Black Hole........ sucks me right in everytime.

(Just finished talking with Santa, he's bring me a MS230-K.....)

[STINEY]

Any updates Bamfster?

[Bamfster]

Unfortunately not yet .... pesky holidays and an overload at work. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll get the MS kit on it's way.