Fuel Pump Eccentric for a cam sensor.

[TheSilverBuick]

The sprockets are cast iron. I do plan on running one of those wheels on the balancer, at least eventually. Ideally the sensor would be on the backside of the sprocket (and timing cover) and the issues with that are clearances with the valve cover/cam housing. Even making a small tab of metal would have to be really thin gauge and hold up to rpm without bending from centripetal force.

[BKBridges]

For the pontiac how about a small bracket connected to the two front valve cover studs for the sensor. Then you could add a protrusion on the back of the cam wheel to sense on... No messing with the cool cam belt cover. I was thinking that a cam sensor could be made to sense the fuel pump pushrod on some motors... remove the mech pump and cover the hole with a cam sensor. AL housing with a spring and bore for the rod and a sensor built in... It would sense the rod as it moves in and out. Easy to replace too. I might have to make one for the Jensen.
BKB

[milner351]

BKB treed me - I agree - keeping the front of the engine clean looking would be nice - so create a cam position sensor bracket that bolts on with the valve cover bolts (use longer studs instead of bolts with two nuts - one on valve cover, one on bracket) and sits behind the cam cover - passing through it to read the cam gear, with the wires running along the valve cover bolts in harness hold down clips.

[dieselgeek]

What are the gears made of, they look like plastic? If so you could embed a metal or magnetic slug in one of the teeth and read it from below the underside of the cam gear. You only want one trigger per revolution anyway. Since the belt drive is external you don't have an oil impregnation issue. If the cam gear is metal, is there some gap to the cover? And, if so what if the tab was mounted to face of the cam gear and extended just a bit beyond the belts running circumference and again read from below between the belt paths?

On the crank sensor, why not a 36-1 wheel in front of or behind the damper? Like maybe one of these?

Are those thick enough? Better set one up on the bench grinder and do a little proofing first...

[CDMBill]

Funny you say that. Those pictured are rejects from failed Ebay EDIS wheel orders of the past. The thin ones didn't read, the thicker one did but was a lot of mass to add for just the trigger wheel not mention its resemblance to running a Skill saw blade in front of the damper. But they served the purpose of illustration I guess. I should have my new water jet cut version of the thick Escort wheel in a couple days and then it'll go back together.

My buddy Nick can make a custom size wheel at a reasonable price if that solves any issues Randall.

[dieselgeek]

Funny you say that. Those pictured are rejects from failed Ebay EDIS wheel orders of the past. The thin ones didn't read, the thicker one did but was a lot of mass to add for just the trigger wheel not mention its resemblance to running a Skill saw blade in front of the damper. But they served the purpose of illustration I guess. I should have my new water jet cut version of the thick Escort wheel in a couple days and then it'll go back together.

My buddy Nick can make a custom size wheel at a reasonable price if that solves any issues Randall.

So check this out. By accident, on Sicilio's landspeed car, we got ahold of a genuine Ford EDIS wheel that comes only in the LIghtning engines (same as your truck).

It's lightened by a lot, but it still has thick teeth. See if you can find a pic of one online... it's working good for us so far and no concern of it grenading, from what I can tell. The guys looked at it a little funny, but it worked.

[CDMBill]

I am pretty sure that the fragged P/S belts are what led to the fractured powdered metal 4.6 EDIS wheel on mine, that's why we are making one from 4340 plate on the water jet, copying the the 4.6 pattern but at .375 thickness at the teeth.

Randall, this out there but what if you duplicated those pulleys in aluminum? Has anyone done this? Is there a market for them? Is this just crazy?

[dieselgeek]

I am pretty sure that the fragged P/S belts are what led to the fractured powdered metal 4.6 EDIS wheel on mine, that's why we are making one from 4340 plate on the water jet, copying the the 4.6 pattern but at .375 thickness at the teeth.

Randall, this out there but what if you duplicated those pulleys in aluminum? Has anyone done this? Is there a market for them? Is this just crazy?

Your picture kinda looks like the EDIS wheel didn't like being press fit... maybe it was a little tight on there?

[CDMBill]

It wasn't press fit, just about .0002-3 of interference to keep it square and true while it was welded. I'm still sort-of amazed that my hacked up mig welded version never had an issue while the fancy water bath tig process failed right across gap between two of the four stitch welds. I did the lathe work on the first version for better or worse but it's still one piece.

Randall is there space to mount some sort of trigger for the cam sensor and the sensor itself between the cover and belt/gear or could the cover be spaced out to give that room?

[GH]

Randal, I just found this thread, I was thinking about using a distributor on the GMC 6 banger for a cam sensor. I ground of 5 of the cam lobes and was going to use a Pertronic magnetic pickup instead of points. That way there would not be any wear on the points with just one lobe. So far we haven't went to sequential EFI.