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  • Will These Work?...

    I'm getting back on track w/the MS for my Chevelle. I'm looking for a "budget injector and came across these:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271058804703...S:1123&vxp=mtr

    So, all of you EFI guys out there, is this a decent injector? Will I be limiting myself using these?

    Based on MPH, I figure I'm somewhere in the 420 to 440 HP range. Throw some idears @ me ......
    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

  • #2

    Re: Will These Work?...

    I have ZERO experience with aftermarket EFI, but have been researching this stuff for an upcoming project.

    I've found a ton of calculators like these: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/InjectorSizeCalc.html

    They've been helpful in creating a plan of attack for what I'm working on.
    "First I believe if you keep the RPM's high enough, ANYTHING is possible." PeeWee

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    • #3

      Re: Will These Work?...

      can't read the damn thing because of the background! Man the price is right!!

      They are a little too small for a legit 440 hp if you don't want more than 80% duty cycle with 8 injectors at 43psi. Get the bsfc down, or duty cycle or fuel pressure up and they would work is my guess.

      http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

      50.00 , I may buy a set for the hell of it and let you know.
      Last edited by Beagle; September 19th, 2012, 07:35 AM.
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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      • #4

        Re: Will These Work?...

        the motor I need those for won't make that many oats, but will be too much for the 24's I have, so they are perfect for me. I just bought a set (10 or more available) and will let you know when they show up what they are like. They are OEM Coyote injectors, so should be freaking awesome for 50.00!

        Hell, I may be 16 more for a staged injector / turbo'd thingy I am emulating TC on (talk shit, collect parts, never finish)!


        Some of the EFI folks on here who have cranked up the pump to get more fuel out of the injector may want to speak to these, but if it's a for real 440hp, I'd be thinking 39's or 42's and get some growing room out of them.
        Last edited by Beagle; September 19th, 2012, 07:42 AM.
        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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        • #5

          Re: Will These Work?...

          I would crank my pressure up to 60 if they ran close
          2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
          First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
          2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
          2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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          • #6

            Re: Will These Work?...

            Beag's I got the middle finger for ya......

            I went with 36lb injectors(rated at 43.5psi) which will cover 525+hp at 60psi fuel pressure at a 80% duty cycle.....

            The injectors you posted are basically the same as 36lb injectors that are rated at 43.5psi........

            So in other words yes they will work......

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            • #7

              Re: Will These Work?...

              Cranking fuel pressure to 60psi is not always a great idea.

              First, the math hardly ever works out in practice. Second, you're upping the workload on your pump and regulator, Third you are heating your fuel more than necessary.

              Most guys I know including some in this post, bought "just the right size" and shortly after needed something bigger either to run e85 or support dry nitrous (dry is safer/better if you use standalone EFI controls), or they figured out how to get more power out of their combo.

              Buy them oversized IMO. Especially if you are using a standalone to run them.
              www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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              • #8

                Re: Will These Work?...

                I've been thru all the online calculators ..... but it is the internet ..... just looking for the real world opinions from those that have been there done that.

                I'm kinda thinkin' like Beags .... for that price it'd get me up n running a lot sooner.
                Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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                • #9

                  Re: Will These Work?...

                  I've been thru all the online calculators ..... but it is the internet ..... just looking for the real world opinions from those that have been there done that.

                  I'm kinda thinkin' like Beags .... for that price it'd get me up n running a lot sooner.

                  That's cool, but count on learning and doing your own tuning so that when you step up, you aren't paying someone else to do the whole tune from scratch. Plan on allowing yourself a little bit of "learning time" to get up to speed on it. Tuning isn't hard, after all Randal does it. :-)
                  www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                  • #10

                    Re: Will These Work?...

                    That's what I have planned .... learning this stuff. As soon as the snow starts flying, I'll be getting on it. I'm not counting on it being a walk in the park, but I think I have a good amount of research/reading/and question asking that I should be able to tackle it .....
                    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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                    • #11

                      Re: Will These Work?...

                      would data logging and watching for it to go lean at upper RPM be okay?

                      It shouldn't start running out of fuel until the top of the RPM range was what I've gotten out of it. This also assumes a .50 bsfc which is pretty fat for a decent head on a SBC from what I understand. I've been wrong before, very wrong before in fact... just tossing it out as fodder. I'm planning to stay at probably 5400 rpm peak on a 387, it doesn't need to be fed so much when you don't buzz it.

                      Ford rates their stuff at 39 psi too I think. They are comfy with this in a 412 hp mill, so I am betting they have a bit of bluff built in. Who knows... but if I thought I was gonna get much over 400 in the 387 or go up to 6k rpm with it, I would want bigger.

                      I'm also wanting to consider in a longer (much) term goal, a knock sensor and meth injection, which would supplement fuel (right?)

                      What we need here is somebody with a six cylinder to buy a set and sell the extras!

                      Bamfster, are you doing a manifold conversion? The 13" long runnered OEM junk I'm using will limit my RPM severely. A converted Victor Jr. 5" runner is another story...
                      Last edited by Beagle; September 19th, 2012, 04:47 PM. Reason: 5400 hp...hahahhaha. ooops.
                      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                      • #12

                        Re: Will These Work?...

                        It's a Vic Jr (at this point) .... BUT .... I have a friend that wants to try his hand at building a sheet metal intake. Maybe a tunnel ram concoction w/twin throttle bodies. Not that I have the engine for it, but it may be cool. I can always fall back on the JR if it doesn't pan out.
                        Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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                        • #13

                          Re: Will These Work?...

                          I'm with D/G, get enough injector to cover what HP you plan to have in the future. You hit the bottle, so I'd definitely get enough injector to cover that.

                          Tuning is pretty straight forward. Get the free rev pretty clean in, slope the higher load cells upwards a bit and take it for a drive. If it's lean, add fuel, if it's rich subtract fuel. Piece of cake. Then ease into WOT tuning. Once the cruise tuning is decent, make a good sized increase in fuel map from the cruising part of the table to account for all the extra air of more throttle bodies/etc. Then watch an AFR gauge when you go into WOT and watch for it to critically lean out (go into the 14's+). If it doesn't cool, if it does let up and add fuel. Datalog the whole thing on the WOT. If you are confident you have it going way rich, then go to the track, run hard while datalogging. Pull some fuel out, and repeat until the AFR is where you want it. Cake, and even easier if a passenger (kids or wife?) want to watch the fuel table while you are driving and make appropriate tweaks to the fuel table.

                          I've used the autotuning function on my T-bird with pretty good success from a drivability standpoint, and could be good to get a decent base map going too.
                          Escaped on a technicality.

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                          • #14

                            Re: Will These Work?...

                            BUT .... I have a friend that wants to try his hand at building a sheet metal intake. Maybe a tunnel ram concoction w/twin throttle bodies. Not that I have the engine for it, but it may be cool. I can always fall back on the JR if it doesn't pan out.
                            I would definitely avoid trying to learn EFI setup and tuning on a "my friend built it" tunnel ram of any kind. To end up with something that's tune-able and drive-able, the designer needs to do a lot of engine dyno testing with individual O2s per cylinder, etc. I'd recommend saving yourself hours or months of headaches wondering why you can't get your EFI setup to run right, versus the 11hp gain (again, if lucky).

                            Tune it on a known good EFI combo so you can spend your time making progress instead of being frustrated, IMO.
                            www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                            • #15

                              Re: Will These Work?...

                              I see a few kits on ebay with 8 injector bungs (Looks like a length of AL pipe with the O-ring seat machined in) and a pair of fuel rails...

                              I know this has ben discussed before - who sells the "drill bit" to cut in injector seats?

                              scott - In your experience - are the cast in "pads" I see in the runners of most newer aftermarket aluminum intakes thick enough to take an injector seat - or are we pretty much stuck tigging in a round piece of ~3/16"ish plate and machining?
                              (I'm thinking a pre - machined pipe would distort while welding)
                              There's always something new to learn.

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