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  • Intake injector bungs, odd ball question

    Ok, The 350 I'm installing in my truck, that I'm piecing
    together now.. I have the intake off. while it's off, I'd like to install injector bungs, not a big deal, here is the rub. I'll be starting with a carb then down the line add the efi ,
    can I drill the holes, mount the bungs, epoxy or weld(if epoxy what type) and then using a little smaller bolt, put a couple o rings on it making receiver grooves for the o rings, and stuff it in the injector hole.. to close it up until I get to the efi part?
    I'd think because the intake is under vacuum, the bolt head that would be larger than the hole would keep from sucking them in, and unless it the engine back fired they'd never be pushed out.. could even add a little locktight blue to under the bolt head, for that extra insurance.
    WHAT SAY YOU
    Last edited by NewEnglandRaceFan; July 10, 2013, 05:20 AM.

  • #2
    HRM or CC did a test of Carb vs. EFI where they just put injectors into the bungs when they ran the carb. Could get a set of worthless 4yl units or something else from the yard and put them in... Just a though
    Central TEXAS Sleeper
    USAF Physicist

    ROA# 9790

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    • #3
      are you saying plug the injector bung with an o-ringed bolt? Is the bung threaded or do you plan on putting a bolt head in the middle of the runner? I'd consider not putting anything in the runner that could potentially fall into the mill, or jack the runner distribution. You can leave the injectors in there disconnected. Ugly, but effective.

      Have a look at BBR's intake page...

      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

      Comment


      • #4
        Here's what I did many years ago. I ordered some high temp rubber plugs from Mcmaster-Carr, drilled 4 holes, tapped them and made 4 aluminum hold-downs. Simple and clean.
        Attached Files
        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
        1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
        1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CTX-SLPR View Post
          HRM or CC did a test of Carb vs. EFI where they just put injectors into the bungs when they ran the carb. Could get a set of worthless 4yl units or something else from the yard and put them in... Just a though
          i'd think the weight of the injector(top heavy) and nothing at the top(no rail) they'd flop around when car moves,stops,etc

          Comment


          • #6
            BBR for the win on both the installing of the intake bungs and the plugs.

            The bolt and o-ring could work, but you do run the risk of the steel bolt gouging the aluminum bung. I wouldn't put any loctite or other sealants on it.
            Escaped on a technicality.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Beagle View Post
              are you saying plug the injector bung with an o-ringed bolt? Is the bung threaded or do you plan on putting a bolt head in the middle of the runner? I'd consider not putting anything in the runner that could potentially fall into the mill, or jack the runner distribution. You can leave the injectors in there disconnected. Ugly, but effective.

              Have a look at BBR's intake page...

              http://bigblockranger.com/Intakeconversion.html
              no, picture the bung and a bolt with o rinds on the threaded part. and the bolt head sitting on top of the bung, not in it, the bolt shaft in it , the bung not threaded, the o rings would keep the threads away from the inner machined bung walls,
              and seal the intake, and the bolt head(larger than bung hole) would keep it from even being sucked in the engine..
              I like your bracket and threaded hole set up. but think just stuffing a o ringed bolt would do the same thing.. without the need to plug up the bolt holes for the bracket later..

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                BBR for the win on both the installing of the intake bungs and the plugs.

                The bolt and o-ring could work, but you do run the risk of the steel bolt gouging the aluminum bung. I wouldn't put any loctite or other sealants on it.
                that's why I said 2 o rings one near the bottom and one toward the top so the bolt never touches the bung walls at all.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bracket holes were blind, so no real need to ever plug them.
                  Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                  1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                  1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                  1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                  1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                  1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BBR View Post
                    Bracket holes were blind, so no real need to ever plug them.
                    mcastercar is a huge catalog, any pointer on what area you found those things you used

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
                      that's why I said 2 o rings one near the bottom and one toward the top so the bolt never touches the bung walls at all.
                      There is still the wiggle factor when installing the bolts. O-rings are usually pretty tightly installed.
                      Escaped on a technicality.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        fwiw on a Ford manifold, the injector o-ring is down the hole and it's a tight fit. They don't really "flop" around, you have to be intentional when you remove them.

                        I think I see what you are saying on the bolt. I think it could work. The o-ring would probably keep it in place and seal it, but I'd want something to hold it down myself.. I'd also think about drilling a hole in the middle of the hex (through two flats opposite of each other) so I could stick a screwdriver or ice pick in there to pull them out. If you get the diameter and o-rings right, it's a tight fit.

                        If I understand your description, there won't be any threads on the bolt, you're using just the shoulder? You can round the little end and it shouldn't hurt the aluminum.
                        Last edited by Beagle; July 10, 2013, 06:39 AM.
                        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
                          mcastercar is a huge catalog, any pointer on what area you found those things you used
                          try #0 stopper in your search, that's probably about the size you need.

                          /edit - maybe a size 00. Hobby store will have them in the chemistry lab section, or hit up your local meth cooker.

                          Age, heat, and oil do ugly things to rubber. I hope this is a temporary solution.
                          Last edited by Beagle; July 10, 2013, 06:44 AM.
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by NewEnglandRaceFan View Post
                            mcastercar is a huge catalog, any pointer on what area you found those things you used
                            I may still have 2 in a pack with the part number at home and I think I might actually know where they are. lol
                            Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                            1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                            1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                            1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                            1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                            1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BBR View Post
                              Here's what I did many years ago. I ordered some high temp rubber plugs from Mcmaster-Carr, drilled 4 holes, tapped them and made 4 aluminum hold-downs. Simple and clean.
                              Great idea and cheap!
                              Nick Smithberg
                              www.smithbergracing.com

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