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"This" Close to FIing my FE

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  • "This" Close to FIing my FE

    Ive loaded my shopping cart at DIYAuto with this....


    JimStim v1.5 MegaSquirt Stimulator w/ Wheel Simulator -Unassembled 1ea

    GM Closed Element CLT / IAT Sensor with Connector 2ea

    MegaView-II UnAssembled Kit 1ea

    755 Piece Weather Pack Kit 1ea

    MegaSquirt Wiring Bundle - 12' Long 1ea


    Bosch 42 lb/hr injectors - flow matched set of 8 1 set


    Lead Bending Tool 1ea


    12' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness (MS1 / MS2 / MS3 Ready) 1ea

    IAC Valve Connector 1ea


    MegaSquirt-III w/PCB V3.0 - UnAssembled Kit with black case 1ea


    Innovate LC-1 Serial Cable - 3746 1ea


    USB cable for MegaSquirt-III 1ea



    Fuel Injector Connector - Bosch EV1 8ea


    MegaSquirt Relay Board - UnAssembled Kit 1ea


    Im planning to use an Edelbrock EFI ready intake,fuel rails and Accel throttle body (I have no parts now)

    Areomotive Phantom fuel pump/sump and regulator.

    From my research the MSIII will be overkill at first because I will take baby steps with fuel only bank/bank then add timing (can I lock out a Ford duraspark and use that pick up as a cam sink without a crank sensor,or is a crank sensor required for timing control? Do I need an ignition box such as an MSD to fire a single coil to distributer?


    68 Mustang TKO 5spd,3.70 gear
    433ci FE
    Edelbrock Heads
    Custom Cam Research cam [email protected] ~.560 lift 110lsa
    Normal performance stuff 450-500hp
    I have an inovate LC1 installed now (pruff one needs FI IMHO)

    how does my list look? What is missing?
    I know the double wire harness' are a lot of wire but I;d rather have it.

    The weather packs will be used but are mostly for "stock".

    do I need more injector for future E85?


    I have a Mustang wire harness should I repurpuse that or am I just trading time for time?

    I would like to build "finished " looking wire harness' is there a good under hood temp wire wrap or sleeve. Good high temp heat shrink. Im thinking the sealing type but the stuff my local electronics supply has gets rock hard underhood.

    Im an Aircraft Avionics/Electrician so the fab is no problem,except for welding bungs,machining rails and setting up the crank sensor,its an FE not SBC so it has to be fabricated LOL .

  • #2
    There is an Edelbrock Victor EFI intake for the FE. That might save you some fabrication. Sounds like a great project.

    Comment


    • #3
      I would hold off on the MegaView until you are up and running and are sure you want it. You may want to check out this digital gauge that fits into the standard round gauge bracket http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...p?f=67&t=48208 . It can be cycled through a couple variables and it's programmable.

      I'd skip the lead bender. I got one and never used it. A small pair of needle nose pliers is what I used most commonly followed up by small flat head screwdriver.


      From my research the MSIII will be overkill at first because I will take baby steps with fuel only bank/bank then add timing (can I lock out a Ford duraspark and use that pick up as a cam sink without a crank sensor,or is a crank sensor required for timing control? Do I need an ignition box such as an MSD to fire a single coil to distributer?
      I'm confused by this statement. You need a crank and cam sensor for sequential. They make dual sync distributors that provide both signals though they won't be as precise given timing chain slack. Without a crank sensor or dual sync distributor I don't see how you can do coil packs and sequential, if you are not looking to do sequential stuff and just run it batch/alternating fire style then you can just have the tach in wired into the distributor. I ran a long time with the megasquirt tach input wired directly to the pickup coil of an HEI, and I'd expect it to work exactly the same on a duraspark pickup coil. Then I had my spark out routed to an MSD box, but it can be wired directly to an ignition coil.
      Escaped on a technicality.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the input,Ill hold off on the Mega View for now,saving a few bucks allways helps.

        My ignition question was geared more to running a simple single coil with programmable timing curve,but using the the 8 tooth relucter and distibuter to distribute the spark. Electronic timing control I guees,I was hoping to run a simple rpm/map based timing curve without springs.

        I can see the CPU not having a clue where TDC is would be a problem.
        Last edited by Cyclone03; September 29, 2013, 06:17 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          For simple fuel and ignition control the ECU doesn't need to know where TDC is, just needs a signal every 45* (the 8 reluctor points) to do it's thing. Running a single coil is straight forward.

          This is how I wired my HEI for timing control by the MegaSquirt well before I installed a crank trigger. Dead nuts simple. The MS ignition output wire I wired to an MSD 6AL box, but you should be able to wire it directly to a coil.

          Last edited by TheSilverBuick; September 29, 2013, 06:33 PM.
          Escaped on a technicality.

          Comment


          • #6
            Cool,Im using a duraspark to control an MSD 6al now.

            So I can lock the mechanical advance and set up a cpu controled timing curve.

            Comment


            • #7
              Im I currect in assuming the MS will not read a wide band O2 sensor without the LC1?

              Comment


              • #8
                Yup. You see on mine where I drilled and roll pinned the advance plate. BBR made a nifty aluminum plate with 4 holes in it to non-invasive lock his timing out.

                Getting the initial timing setup can be a headache, plus then you have to worry about rotor phasing, but its doable.

                Basically set the engine up to TDC on #1, see where the rotor is pointing, then rotate the housing slightly counter-clockwise (the rotor normally turns clockwise right?) so the rotor is pointing just past the tab in the distributor cap. Then make sure the reluctor and pickup coil points are lined up with each other. This will make it so TDC and the reluctor points are in sync, and the rotor phasing will be decent when the ignition advances the rotor points at the tab in the distributor. Set the trigger angle in MegaSquirt to something like 5* and the engine will likely fire up. Then check the timing and adjust the trigger angle until you get the timing light to match the commanded timing. If it's looking like you are going to need negative trigger angle numbers I'd pop the cap off and rotate the pickup coil counter-clockwise a hair (it doesn't take much) and recheck the timing. I personally try and get the trigger angle for this setup between 1-15* and move the pickup coil when it's outside that range.

                You'll wire the MegaSquirt spark output wire to the points in wire on the MSD box and it'll behave like a normal MSD box.
                Escaped on a technicality.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You need a wide band controller that has a 0-5v output for the MS to see. Do you have an android phone or tablet? You can use the Shadow Dash app as a screen and datalogger if you get a bluetooth dohickey on the MS3. Thats how I have been doing it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Cyclone03 View Post
                    Im I currect in assuming the MS will not read a wide band O2 sensor without the LC1?
                    It needs a wideband O2 controller to read the AFR. So you cannot wire a WBO2 sensor directly to the MS, but the LC1 box is the controller in that case, so yes You need the LC1 or another brand equivalent.
                    Escaped on a technicality.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                      It needs a wideband O2 controller to read the AFR. So you cannot wire a WBO2 sensor directly to the MS, but the LC1 box is the controller in that case, so yes You need the LC1 or another brand equivalent.
                      cool,allready got that.
                      Thanks for the timing overview.

                      I have Matts book but I need to reread it,its been over a year.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        is the closed temp sensor good for air temp,or is the open better?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Either will work. Use what you have. I've always scavenged my air temp sensors from the junkyard and used the open ones. That's just personal preference.
                          Escaped on a technicality.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                            Either will work. Use what you have. I've always scavenged my air temp sensors from the junkyard and used the open ones. That's just personal preference.
                            WHERE is the best placement of it, up stream near where the air enters the pipe/ducting or right before it enters the engine, no idea if the air temp would change enough from the 3-5 feet difference in placement to even warrant thinking about this. but could see it coming into the picture if you run water/alky injection system (snows/etc)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My Buick's is mounted in the air filter housing, which is a simple open element Edelbrock air filter housing which I drilled a hole in the base and installed a rubber grommet for the IAT sensor to slide into. Then I have it sit towards the front of the engine. The Thunderbird just has it literally laying in the engine bay not mounted to anything. The Firebird naturally aspirated will have it in the filter housing like the Buick and eventually moved to the intake charge tube before the throttle blades when I go turbo. That one will probably be closed element and threaded in.

                              Lots of people complain about heat saturation issues with their IAT sensor, and I'm guessing they are mounting them in contact with metal or in right into the intake manifold. Air is moving a couple hundred feet per second once it crosses the throttle blades, so can't be picking up too much heat, so I figure it's a good spot just before the blades.
                              Escaped on a technicality.

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