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Forgive Me,For I have Sinned: F.A.S.T. ez 2.0 install

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  • Forgive Me,For I have Sinned: F.A.S.T. ez 2.0 install

    I've talked for year on the forum about efi,ing my stroked FE Ford.
    The tinkerer in me was all over MegaSquirt I think I made 2 post here about it ,I still like the idea and I understand the power.The tuning did hold me back,then my laptop died,my wifes ate a hard drive and the desk top also lost it's HD. I KNOW me,if I did MS I would never be done tuning I would always be messing with it.

    I was at GoodGuys Ft.Worth and F.A.S.T. was running a sale on ez 2.0,about $250 less than Summit.

    I got the Kit about 2 weeks later. The hardware is top notch and comes well packed. The instructions are also well done and easy to understand.

    I began my install with the fuel system ,I decided to use my existing 1/2" fuel line as the return and added a 3/8" feed line. I used a Tanks Inc sump kit with the fuel pump included in the FAST kit. Pump is in the stock tank.
    The Fast kit comes with a small 10 micron fuel filter but I felt it was too small so I reused my RobbMc Large fuel filter with a new 10 micron filter element. I then screwed the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel pressure sensor manifold and clamped them both to the inside frame rail forward of the rear axle. Ran hard line forward outside the sub frame, and along the forward frame rail in the left front wheel well and into the engine compartment. The regulator is mounted low on the left front inner fender apron.

    Of course the Throttle body is mounted to the intake manifold,I added a 1" open spacer instead of the 4 hole I ran with my 850 Demon. The first proplem came when I tried to install my air cleaner.

    Im running a Spectra Pro Fab 14" dual snorkle set up that Im quite proud of. The ez TB moves the throttle blades up about an inch. The top of the linkage is about 1/8" above the air filter mount base and it has a TAB the sticks outward about 5/8" and it will not come close to clearing a drop base air filter. I have both a Moroso and what seems the normal GM type drop base air cleaner and everything hits the linkage. I first cut the TAB off and reshapped the inside of the drop base hit then just barely hit. In the end I cut the large hole off the top of the arm to ensure nothing hit.So if it has to be warrented I may be screwed.

    After the hardware was installed it was time to wire it. The selling point is of course how few connections required,just click,click,click and run power and ground to the battery. WELL.... The problem with universal harness' is they dont fit anything. The other problem is me. I've worked hard to hide the wires in my engine bay nothing crossing over ,everything routed as clean as posible. The TB has a harness coming off the back center,it's about 36" long. The Computer harness has a TB harness about 18" long. In total they reach to the right upper kick panel fine. (Computer is mounted to right kick panel inside car). The problem is the harness on the back of the throttle body needs to be about 10-12" long to fit my sense order,With a nice 48" long one off the CPU.No problem I wire airplanes I'll just shoten the TB harness and use the wire to lengthen the CPU harnes....Nope. All the TB sensor wires are spliced in the TB harness includding 8 to 1 injector power wires,the splices are well spaced and very well done but no way to shorten that harness and lengthen the other without more wire. In the end I ran the TB harness through the firewall,basicly hard wiring the TB to the car,and connected it to the CPU harness. I ended up removing all the sleeving from the CPU harness and moved all the breakouts. After I know it all works Im going to go in and remove the unused wires from the harness to clean it up.

    The kit uses a O2 sensor of course it also has a nice harness and it to was too short,I added about 16" and routed the harness through the floor to the header.

    I routed the fuel pressure sensor along the right rocker panel then crossed behind the rear seat ,through floor to the fuel pressure sensor,the harnes was of course too short by 18"....

    Power and ground was routed inside right rocker ,over right rear fender then to the trunk mounted battery,again 24" of 10ga wire completed the connection.

    The dual fan control wires and ignition trigger wire to the front mounted MSD and fan relays run in the right fender well then into the engine compartment below the stock battery location,MSD is in the stock battery location.

    The ignition /RPM pick up is triggered by a stock Duraspark distributer with the timing locked out and the roter phased at 30*BTDC. Two wire crank sensor harness is routed along the top of the intake on the right of the TB.

    In the end the install looks like my carbed set up with an extra fuel line. The FAST engine control is just peaking out under the right dash high on the kick panel.
    Thats it for the install details.

    Set up and first drive in next post.
    Last edited by Cyclone03; November 30, 2013, 08:08 AM.

  • #2
    Tell us how it goes, I want to run the EZ EFI 2.0 on my '71 Camaro and use E85.
    The Green Machine.
    http://s1.postimg.org/40t9i583j/mytruck.jpg

    Comment


    • #3
      Right on, pictures?!?!?
      Escaped on a technicality.

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok if this post just ends I'll be back to edit.
        How do I get pics off my iPhone to here again?

        I completed the install disconnected the fuel pump connector and turned the key to power system up.
        The set up screen came on the hand held and I entered the required info,CID,Idle speed,fuel system type,fuel etc. I selected the option for ez to control timing and entered my base timing, total, and all in RPM. Calibrating the TPS was a simple 2 step process. After reconnecting the fuel pump it is tested to verify fuel pressure is 43psi,missed it by 1psi,it's time to start it.

        At this point I wanted to make sure the fans would come on so I left the set up page to the advanced menu, found fan control and set my #1 and #2 fan on points.
        I also input my timing correction.

        The problem with going away from the Set Up like I did is you loose it so I had to redo the set up,not a real problem at all it took me way longer to type this than do it.

        I was ready to start the car. Timing light at the ready. Allen wrench to set throttle angle. All fire Extinguishers at the ready.( Not needed !)

        Turned key and crank engine, throttle un touched engine fired in about 5secs and "settled" into a wavering idle. After about 10 sec the idle smoothed to 875 RPM and I waited for the engine to warm.

        After about 10 min the temp was at 140f and it was time to verify timing. At the prompt I fired up the timing light and pointed it at the damper. The FAST locks the timing at 20* and that's what your looking for on the damper. I was over by 1.5*,no problem just trim it out with the hand held. That done it was time to adjust the throttle blades to get the ICV in operating range. Done, and the TPS idle cal page comes up. Again less than 2 minutes to do the above.

        At this point the hand held is showing that learning is happening and the engine is running very nicely.

        The day all the above was done it was pouring rain so I didn't drive it,but just the way it started and the throttle response was better than I was able to make my 850 Demon with 2 years of off and on tuning with my Innovate O2 indicator.

        Yester day the weather cleared so it was off to the gas station for 10 gals of gas.
        From cold,49f water, I turned the key, let the fuel pump and "pre Squirt" cycle then went to start. Engine cranked about 2 seconds then started. RPM went to about 1600 for less than 10sec then smoothly dropped to 1000rpm over the next 10sec. At this point I just backed out of the garage, selected first gear and drove away.

        I have to stop here because the above start and drive away was incredible to me. My pre start/run procedure required pumping the throttle pre start then constantly working the throttle. Selecting Neutral when coming to a stop and left foot braking with constant throttle work to keep it running. I called it driving with 3 feet. Now yes I had no choke, but even in warm weather I had to pay attention when stopping to keep the engine running. All that is gone now.
        Last edited by Cyclone03; November 27, 2013, 06:51 PM.

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        • #5
          OK more driving/tuning.
          Today I drove my Mustang to work. Water Temp was 52,outside air temp was 34f! This is good cold weather tuning.

          Yesterday I did a little "advanced tuning" before I put the car away for the night,I added 2 clicks to the prestart squirts and extended the warm up.

          Keyed and waited for pre squirt and turned the key to start. It cranked maybe one rotation and fired. Again did not touch throttle. RPM went to 1600 and unlike the day before stayed there about 20 sec. then started to drop over the next 30sec to 1000RPM. I backed out and drove away,nice and easy again no problems. About a mile from the house I hit my first light and the RPM had settled to the set 875RPM,water temp only 120f so no learning but running well. within the next mile the temp got to 140 and learning began. It all happens seemlessly.

          The day before I had reset the idle and Cruise AFR's to 14.0 and 15.5. I have found with the carb it tolerated those mixture numbers ok. The idle was good but the cruise had a surge,no problem a few clicks and the cruise AFR was 15 and smothe again.
          Later in the day on the way home I leaned on it a little and felt a little delay from about 1500rpm at throttle tip. Found a "test spot" and it was repeatable. Instead of adding accell fuel I dropped the idle to 13.9 and cruise to 14.9 drove it around and tested it again flat spot gone.

          The timing is displayed in real time with idle,vacuum and total. I havent started making changes here yet beyound just clicking and changing setting to see how it works. I ended up going back to my carb timing setting for now,seems to run fine.

          The fan controls are working fine.
          I ran the A/C to see how it handled the extra load. I didn't use the A/C sense wire built into the EZ harness because I didn't want the fans running only when the compressure runs. I have my A/C set up with a trianary switch that controls the fans with the refridgerent pressure. So the fans only run when the pressure rises to the point it needs to be lowered. The A/C runs with the defrost and when its cool out the fans dont run with the car moving. This helps warm the engine too. Even in the summer the fans dont run going down the road A/C on. Anyway useing the FAST A/C sense wire the fans are on when the compressure runs,I didn't want that.
          So A/C on the idle counts went up about 5 and the RPM held at 875 no problem.

          I did some higher load accellation checks by leaving the trans in 5th at 1500 RPM and just rolling into the throttle up to 2200 rpm (75mph) seemless it just pulls.

          No real WOT runs yet.

          I have just over 100 miles on it and I'm showing just over E on the gas gauge,Ive used about 8 gals of gas,the mileage is pretty much the same at this point.
          Drivability is incredable.

          Comment


          • #6
            I am a fan of EFI. Now if we can get your Iphone to cooperate on the picture thing. I'm not help there, I always send the pictures to the computer or facebook then link them over.
            Escaped on a technicality.

            Comment


            • #7
              Oh pics to facebook,I can do that...

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              • #8
                Ok heres some pics.

                Still working on it
                Last edited by Cyclone03; November 28, 2013, 05:41 PM.

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                • #9
                  Im thinking one at a time would be better.
                  The pics of the engine are in work.
                  The CPU is mounted upside down on kick panel
                  Wire bundle mess behind glove box,looking up.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Cyclone03; November 28, 2013, 05:50 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Wiring looking up
                    The two marked relays are for the A/C.
                    Two grey plugs are CAN BUS,not used in my install.
                    Grey,Brown and blue wires run to the Ignition control,A/C Sence (Not Used at this time),and the 2 fan control wires.

                    Wrap in that bundle are unused fuel control,Nitrous sence, ignition options,an input and output and some I cant remember I'm sure.
                    Before the install I count 12 wires that could be removed.


                    CPU again at the top of the right kick panel,with A/C and Heater hoses running through firewall into right front fender.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by Cyclone03; November 28, 2013, 06:02 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Ok Left ,Right and strait on shot of engine install.
                      The air cleaner shot is with the carb and my other valve covers,but except for the fuel lines the look is the same.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Looks sharp on top the engine and cleanly mounted under the dash. Got a picture of the user interface?
                        Escaped on a technicality.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No not yet.
                          Maybe Saturday before I can get more
                          Make a list,what else do you want to see,lol.


                          I did have a problem on my first day of driving I didn't mention above.
                          After the engine was FULLY warmed the idle would not come down from 1800 rpm. A quick look at the Master Page on the hand held I could see the TPS was at "000" and voltage was 3.9,throttle was closed. The IAC was 005,max low. I pulled up the IAC window and the "count" was showing left of ideal. I reset the throttle blade,recaled the TPS and idle was again 875. It did take as long to fix as it took me to type. About 2 minutes. I "hunt and peck"

                          I believe the dash is one of the new features over ez 1 (classic) and it is awsome. Having a "problem" then having the tools to fix it is great.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The neat thing about EFI set ups is when something goofy starts happening, you can often trouble shoot it without getting dirty or taking very long.

                            Might as well add a picture of the fuel sump and is that a Vintage Air system I see next to the ECU?
                            Escaped on a technicality.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yea Vintage Air Gen 4. The BEST mod I've ever done! San Antonio,104f 70% humidity. No problem I'll drive the Mustang today.

                              FI will solve the gas boiling out of the carb waiting for the traffic light to change.

                              I'll try to get some pics of the under hood AC install,but I hid it all so well it hard to take a picture of it.LOL

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