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Just started computer tuning for the first time ever with HP Tuners

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  • Just started computer tuning for the first time ever with HP Tuners

    I've been at it the last two days and this is how I feel:







    I've gotten it to fire up and idle until it's almost warm. Then it's very rich and stumbles around 400-500rpm. I think I've figured it out looking at things tonight, but man is the learning curve steep!

    Just a mild 226/232 115 cam on a LQ4 and headers. Granted, it's open-headers right now, so that's not making things any easier, so I think I will be welding tomorrow, then loading my revisions and warming it up again.

    Just wanted to share how I currently feel!
    1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
    1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

    1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

  • #2
    IF your 02 is close to the end of your headers that might cause some problems as well. Putting some exhaust on it will help that AND help you think while your working on it lol.

    I am working on an MS3X setup and I am sure I will feel the same way. The good part for me is the car currently runs well with a carb so I have an idea on target air fuel and timing to get started.
    1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
    1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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    • #3
      I felt the same way when using HP Tuners last year....
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #4
        Hit the books again last night and looked at the log from the previous run. Timing was completely wrong for one thing, and airflow and fuel was a bit off, but not bad. The bank1 02 and injectors were at good levels and stable, but the bank2 02 and fuel injectors were not very stable. No DTCs yet.
        1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
        1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

        1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

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        • #5
          Take a look at this screen shot of my datalog:


          The bank2 02 sensor is all over the place and the bank2 injectors pulse width is much lower than bank1 and all over the friggin place in fuel trim. Do I have a dead injector on that side or a wonky O2 sensor? I'm going to swap the O2 sensors left to right tomorrow and see if the problem migrates. Tonight, I doublechecked all of the wiring for the injectors and everything there is good.
          1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
          1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

          1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

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          • #6
            Also, on bank1, the LT and ST fuel trim is WAY up all the time. This should be closer to 0, correct?
            1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
            1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

            1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm an idiot, I'm too tired and thinking backwards. Bank1 O2 sensor remaining fairly stable low, and the Bank1 injector pulse width being higher, and the bank1 fuel trim being maxed should indicate a bad injector/connection on the driver's side. Be right back, heading out to the garage.
              Last edited by 1970camaroRS; March 20, 2014, 12:08 AM.
              1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
              1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

              1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

              Comment


              • #8
                Checked all of the connections and voltages, all is well. Only thing I see that is different between one side and the other is I have a collector extension welded to the header on passenger side/bank2, but I have a shorter, open header on bank1. It's got to be the unmetered air hitting the bank1 O2 sensor, isn't it? So that sensor is never warming up enough, and is reading fresh air making it add WAYYYYY too much fuel in an attempt to compensate. I think I will clamp on a section of pipe tomorrow and see what's what. I would just go ahead and weld my exhaust up, but I'm waiting for my u-joints to show up to install my driveshaft before I install my x-pipe. Don't want any clearance issues...
                1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
                1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

                1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's probably exactly your problem.
                  1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                  1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep. Clamped on some extra pipe and viola, all systems go. Idles nicely, wideband says idle is just a touch rich at 14.3-14.4. Looking good.
                    1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
                    1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

                    1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 1970camaroRS View Post
                      Yep. Clamped on some extra pipe and viola, all systems go. Idles nicely, wideband says idle is just a touch rich at 14.3-14.4. Looking good.
                      I don't think Id call that a rich idle, just not stoichiometric.
                      www.FBthrottlebodies.com
                      Bruce K Bridges

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BKBridges View Post
                        I don't think Id call that a rich idle, just not stoichiometric.
                        Yeah, it's acceptable, but it is a touch richer than I want. I would like to be right on top of stoichiometric if I can.
                        1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
                        1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

                        1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          any way to drive it a bit? like 30 min? I always let the computer learn a bit before making more changes. Unlike the stand alone setups give it some run time. can give it a bit more timing at idle also.
                          used to be purplecobra, now just myself. I still drive a mustang!!!!!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Paul Whalen View Post
                            any way to drive it a bit? like 30 min? I always let the computer learn a bit before making more changes. Unlike the stand alone setups give it some run time. can give it a bit more timing at idle also.
                            Tried a bit more timing and it killed a bit of vacuum and fattened the mixture. I think it's good where it's at for now, so I won't be making any changes. As far as driving it, I'm going to take it around the block once or twice tomorrow, open headers. Working on getting the exhaust done this week.
                            1970 Camaro RS - SOLD | 2000 Camaro SS - Traded in for a Hyundai...
                            1966 Ford Thunderbird - SOLD | 1963 MGB, abandoned V8 project, FOR SALE/SCRAP

                            1978 Cutlass - Post Lay-off daily driver

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                            • #15
                              sounds good.
                              used to be purplecobra, now just myself. I still drive a mustang!!!!!

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