Drag Week: New Registrations and Scheduling

[ksj2]

Your clueless is all, Drag Radials will wad a side wall plenty. They dont lay down rubber because they are not spinning as they leave the line. Take your finger and put it on a razor blade its fine now pick it up and move it again Thats a radial, now slide it thats a bias tire.

I remember Grumpy 347s picture of Crow wadding a DR on launch from DW 07.WOW!! It was on Grumpys calender he made.I'll look for it.

[38P]

Perhaps we need to be a bit more specific on terminology.

As indicated by their name, drag radials have a radial carcass designed to maximize off-the-line traction by using a soft compound and a reduced tread depth. Unlike slicks, drag radials maintain a stiff sidewall that ensures stability at high speeds, making them the most streetable of the three types of drag tires.

Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...#ixzz1v4MXLTwO

Certainly, there are now some radial slicks that have soft sidewalls and thus a wrinkle-wall effect. Also re-read what I said:

Given that many radial tires seem to depend somewhat less on the wrinkle-wall spring to work(based on my unscientific observations, which have not much included the very latest generation of radial slicks) , the different "hit" characteristics mentioned by Jason are observable.

I never said that there were no wrinkle-wall radials.

There are certainly some tires now marketed for drag racing that do not have soft sidewalls. Moreover the spring rate of a tire is, in part, a function of inflation pressure.

BTW, here's what M/T says about their line of "stiff sidewall" drag racing tires:

The advantage of a stiff sidewall is less tire wrap or sidewall distortion, thus reacting better at launch. Note: This is good for heavy cars, or cars with a suspension, that can absorb the initial launch. If you are running a fixed suspension car like a dragster or an altered, you would need the tire to absorb the launch, thus a softer sidewall. There are two ways to stiffen the sidewall. 1. Run tubes to help support the sidewall. 2. Matching the tread width with the wheel width, or going 1 wider on the wheel width, will stiffen the sidewall.

Here's what the manufacturer says about Nitto's NT555R II DRAG RADIAL:

A unique fusion of stiff sidewall construction and Nitto's popular Extreme Drag Radial tread design makes the new NT555RII an exceptional road course performer. Add to that its specially formulated soft compound, and you get a competition radial that exhibits impressive control and handling during severe lateral acceleration. Although the NT555RII is street legal, the tire's construction will offer a rougher ride when used for daily driving. •High block rigidity, soft compounding and large contact patch provide extreme dry traction in race conditions. •Two wide steel belts and two nylon cap plies stabilize tread for superior traction and handling. •Steel sidewall inserts provide control and stability during extreme lateral acceleration. •Spiral wound, jointless bead construction ensures high casing stability for superior control at high speed. •Low void ratio and large tread blocks optimize dry traction. •Heat cycling recommended for optimized performance and wear under race conditions. •W- or Y-speed rated (depending on size), 6/32" tread depth, 100AA UTQG Rating.

While they've certainly made some hard tires, I'm not aware of any tire that does not wear (lose rubber) with use.

Do you feel it necesary to preface most every post with some sort of personal insult? How does that convince anyone of anything?

[JeffMcKC]

I understand it’s hard to get terms right when all you do is cut and paste. Yes, I have a very hard time understanding how you take yourself as such a informed person when your clearly not. It not so much a insult to call you clueless, it’s more of a descriptive term, a noun not a insult.

[38P]

This is not cutting and pasting

This would be one of the Best Track Prep Guys in the Country and does a lot of the Outlaw Races around the Country

"I don't know a whole lot about prepping a ring for a beatdown, but I will prep the track for you. If you want a neutral place to race I say Silver dollar in Reynolds, GA. The difference in track prep is this. Normally a slick tire car needs a bit of wheel speed at the hit. If you glue the track too much it stops the tire and when the car tries to get up on the tire it will shake. A radial tire car doesn't want wheel speed. They want to hit the tire and drive off applying a consistent amount of power. But here's the deal. A small tire car, slick or radial can usually get down the same track. It's the big tire slick cars that usually shake more. When I prep a track for small tires, I am heavy on the glue for the first 150 to 200 feet. To a big tire slick car this is considered a "Radial Track" It also depends on rubber also. A radial like to have a buildup of rubber on the track. A fresh scraped track is not a radial cars friend. YOu need slick tire cars to put rubber down as a radial doesn't lay rubber. If you can get a good 1/16 of an inch of rubber on the track, spray it heavy the first 200ft you will get a small tire down the track with no problem. Anyway, I'll prep the track for you guys, just tell me when and where."
__________________
Jason Rueckert
Regional Manager
VP Racing Fuels -Midwest
812 878 2026
[email protected]

While it is certainly fine to disagree with the facts, authorities, logic, theories, and conclusions others offer . . . by opposing them with facts, authorties, logic, theories and counter-conclusions, it is not legitimate or persuasive to attack opponents personally.

[JeffMcKC]

I have said a comment about your ideas not said your short and fat. Maybe you have more of a problem because your ideas have no real life data to back them up. Your just Trolling

[Grumpy]

i have said a comment about your ideas not said your short and fat. Maybe you have more of a problem because your ideas have no real life data to back them up. Your just trolling

x2, lmao!

[slimbo5]

I have many pics of my car wadding up mt drag radials. And my junk is slow.

[MoparBilly]

Slimbo,
At what pressure does this alleged "Wadding up" occur??

[CDMBill]

I can't comment on Slimbo's wadded up Drag Radials.

The first shot which is a little hard to see is at 20 PSI at Famoso two weeks ago. The second at Pinks All out in Phoenix was with 18.5 or 19 PSI, my log wasn't as good there. This also is a before and after an engine change, converter adjustment and shock changes. At Pinks All Out that ripple on the fornt means I am very close to the dreaded radial tire shake. The wrinkle at Famoso not so much. These are Hoosier 325/50's. I have additional track photgrapher photos I need to scan that show a similar pattern on 315/60 MT's.

[CDMBill]

Sorry duplicated photo

[JeffMcKC]

Bill I have one like that the ripple goes all the way to the wheel on, Then it went into shake

[LAGNAF]

I'm learning a bunch from this thread!! Keep it up. (well, except for the eye poking, name calling, etc..) I was wondering what causes that wrinkle on your drag radials? not enuf air preasure, hitting too hard on suspension, or both?

[slimbo5]

275/60,s at 20 psi. if you dead hook a drag radial and all that force doesnt ripple the sidewall then your stuff must be reeeeeeaaaaal slow. i was going 1.45 60 foot on motor before i tightened the converter for nitrous and have been 1.35 on spray. at 3850 pounds

[slimbo5]

thats an mt



thats a hoosier

both at 20 psi

i guess its not alleged anymore...

[BlueCuda340]

I think this is an example of not enough air pressure, 16psi and an 11.40 car