5/8 Drive studs on our 'street' cars.

[CDMBill]

To date i've been fine with the 5 1/2" threaded style wheel studs on my Strange S/T 35 spline axles in the 9" but I know I'm getting to the edge of their envelope. And, with the spray I expect I'll be well over the line.

I haven't looked closely but I assume a number of guys running Drag Week are running the 5/8 drive studs. Has anyone hand any issues with the street driving or are there any tips to share?

Thanks in advance.

[Bamfster]

When I helped a friend put a street/strip gto together, that's what we went with (they came w/the MW axles). He runs Convo Pro wheels with thick aluminum washers with no problems in the last 10 or so years.

[73fish]

Bill I have been running 5/8" drive studs on the Cuda for 12 years and no problems the Dart has them, There are several cars running them here in town, with no problems.

[ProCharged509]

When I was running low 10's, I ran the 1/2-20's on the Cragars. Once it started running 9's, I switched to the 5/8 drive studs (Moser redrilled my axles for a very small fee). The 11/16 shoulders sure make it easy to swap tires twice a day. To keep the threads happy I use hand tools both on & off. I hand start each nut, then speed handle, then torque wrench. I do use just a touch of anti-seize to keep the water out. Three years and no problems (and no more worries on the track launching two tons of Blazer).

[squirrel]

I saw a couple guys having problems with galled threads on the large studs. I loaned out my triangle file twice.

[moparman63]

i have used them on my plymouth for 10-11 years.no problems....you will throw rocks at shanked lug nuts after you use those big studz a while.lol

[JeffMcKC]

The galled threads each year come from guys using impacts and running them off to fast building heat. It happed to Doc last year.


Bill Safety note here!

I would NEVER EVER Bolt a Drag Radial on less than a 5/8 stud your just asking for troubles.

[CDMBill]

Jeff thanks for the heads up, this is another one of those things that is only learned through experience which I haven't yet had the pleasure of learning the hard way. Now to adapt the street tires to the studs.

[LAGNAF]

I would NEVER EVER Bolt a Drag Radial on less than a 5/8 stud your just asking for troubles.

thats why all ten of Toms 1/2" studs where found bent forwards .125"..

[ls7gto]

Jeff , you are talking about cars with a higher than normal HP aren't you. And what about true slicks , stick shift and just a tick over 700hp?
I dont even know if I could fit 5/8s drive studs with my rims.

[TheSilverBuick]

Jeff , you are talking about cars with a higher than normal HP aren't you. And what about true slicks , stick shift and just a tick over 700hp?
I dont even know if I could fit 5/8s drive studs with my rims.

Likewise. I at least have 1/2" studs. I wonder what Squirrel runs?

[CDMBill]

This turned out to be a more interesting question than I expected. Some preliminary conclusions and facts I've turned up.

Lots of folks run questionable wheel stud axle combinations based on threads I found on the YB and a lot of other forums.

There does not seem to be a standard for making the move to 5/8 drive studs from .5" or 7/16" conventional studs.

High shock loads stick cars, transbrakes, and dead hook like the drag radials need all need them sooner given the physics involved, but I did not find a formula, our legal system discourages manufacturers from establishing such rules or guidelines.

Virtually any wheel that uses "mag" or shank style lug nuts can be used with drive studs. The bore on these wheels is 11/16's with a few extra thousandths so that works with the drive studs 11/16 smooth shank.

Don't confuse 5/8's drive studs with their 11/16 smooth shank with 5/8 circle track studs which have a more conventional fully threaded configuration and use tapered seat nuts.

Drilling and tapping axle flanges is a job for professionals or very talented amatuers with high quality home equipment to ensure that everything is square.

I will be having my axles drilled for the 5/8's threaded holes between the drilled and threaded 1/2" holes they have now.

I am still working through how to attach my street wheels and tires. My thinking at this point is 5/8's 45* tapered seat circle track lugs after opening up the wheel to the 11/16's size as there is plenty of material. I'll use a spacer to get the wheel clear of the smooth shank length needed for the race wheels.

More to come.

[ProCharged509]

... I don't even know if I could fit 5/8 drive studs with my rims.

... Now to adapt the street tires to the studs.

If your wheels will accept any length of mag shank lug nuts (AND will also clear the big 1.25 diameter washers) they will work perfect with drive studs. You'll only need the correct length of studs & nut/washers for your wheel & brake hub total thickness. If your wheels use tapered seat lug nuts, they'll need something different.
Drive stud trivia:
* The hex nut size on my Mark Williams drive stud nuts is 15/16 (Moser, Strange, etc. also make drive studs)
* In my research, I found that MW has the most lengths of drive studs & nut/washers available
* The big aluminum washers are captive on the MW nuts (some other are loose washers)
* The 15/16 - 12 point socket I use is also 1.25 outside diameter (impact sockets are too large for Cragar SS spokes)
* Haven't found a source for drive stud wheel locks.....
* I like drive studs so well, I might put a set on the front when I finally get rid of the stock S10 front brakes (yes, I have a 'chute)

[JeffMcKC]

thats why all ten of Toms 1/2" studs where found bent forwards .125"..

A bias tire does not shock like a Drag Radial does the stiffer sidewall and the Dead Hook of a radial tends to "Windrow" the studds and if it goes into shake has broke all 5 off many times, taking out some very nice body work and sending a guy into the railing or the other lane when it does.

Stick shifts and bias tires can, but you dont see it very often, they just dont transfer the shock the radial tires do when they go into the shake.....

If you have a shanked lug the 5/8 should fit they have no threads in that area but use a flush nut with a washer no shank in the wheel

[squirrel]

Likewise. I at least have 1/2" studs. I wonder what Squirrel runs?

My Summers Bros axles came with 1/2" fully threaded bolt "studs". My 60' times are in the 1.7 range....