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  • Keeping it cool

    For the love of Pete- I know that this subject has been mentioned, but I can't find it. What are you running for a cooling system (radiator, fan, pump, coolant) to keep your engine cool? Looking for some ideas here in case.

    Short notice, I know. But Summit delivers quickly.
    Why think when you can be doing something fruitful?

  • #2
    BeCool kit, its a lot of money but well spent. I have used mech water pumps and electric both worked fine, a Good Radiator /Fan set up is key
    2007 SBN/A Drag Week Winner & First only SBN/A Car in the 9's Till 2012
    First to run in the .90s .80s and .70's in SBN/A
    2012 SSBN/A Drag Week Winner First in the 9.60's/ 9.67 @ 139 1.42 60'
    2013 SSBN/A Drag Week, Lets quit sand bagging, and let it rip!

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    • #3
      Aluminun radiator, stock water pump, 6" lower pulley, and a 16" flex fan. motor runs 170 to 180 in 90 + temps.

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      • #4
        Stock water pump and pulleys from a 305 in my year car. 28 inch core afco radiator. Flexalite 295 model electric fans. I can run about 175 up to about 90 degrees then she will creep to about 185.
        "Friends don't let friends run the daily driver class,"

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        • #5
          I run a two row alumimum BeCool radiator with a big shroud and clutch fan. Of course I loaf along at ~2300rpm too.
          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • #6
            mine runs hot... it's a 6 cyl stock radiator with a 11:1 383ci with an electric fan.
            runs about 205* down the road at 3300rpm in 95* heat..

            I need an upgrade.. but first I need a sugar momma!!
            Dan, Co-Pilot Drag Week 06
            Drag Week '11 just Me and my Dad in my 53 Chevy, which was his Dads old truck
            Drag Week '12 plus one day...Me and Dad in my 53 again....
            Drag Week 2013 with my father in law.. New BEST ET/MPH [email protected]

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            • #7
              I use walker radiator for 32 ford with spal fan, and weaind alum waterpump. It runs 175/180 most of the time unless in high 90's or higher west Texas summers in stop and go traffic, then it goes up to 190 or alittle higher till I get rolling.
              Go ahead, pull my finger.

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              • #8
                Northern crossflow 2 core radiator, CSR electric water pump with 180* thermostat (3 x 5/16 holes drilled in the face), Flex-a-lite 180 Black Magic Xtreme electric fan with thermostat controller (3300 cfm). Stays at whatever temp I adjust the controller to.
                Rich

                Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017

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                • #9
                  Funny- I wrote this this afternoon not knowing I had a problem, just doing some research. Now I know I have a problem. I just ordered a big fan from Summit (same as Slimbo has)- I hope it fixes the problem.
                  Why think when you can be doing something fruitful?

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                  • #10
                    Best part about that fan is if the car stalls it will pull the car. Hope your alternator is up to it.
                    "Friends don't let friends run the daily driver class,"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by slimbo5 View Post
                      Best part about that fan is if the car stalls it will pull the car. Hope your alternator is up to it.
                      Do you list it as a power adder?

                      I hope my alternator can do it.
                      Why think when you can be doing something fruitful?

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                      • #12
                        We run a 31 inch triple pass radiator with evans coolant and a 4000cfm twin fan setup.
                        Drag Week 2009 winner BB/NA
                        Drag Week 2010 second BB/NA
                        Drag week 2011 Winner Modified/NA
                        Drag week 2012 Winner SS BB/NA

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                        • #13
                          I am probably telling everybody what they already know... I found two things that helped cooling at speed. 1) sealing around the radiator. 2) Ditching the hood scoop hood (open at the back) and putting the stock hood back on. The second item definitely helped the most.

                          Initially I thought the hood scoop would help (more air through the radiator?) But on raining days I saw rain making a 180 degree turn and going into the hood scoop, so the air flow pattern was not what I thought...

                          For most cars, if they over heat cruising above 35-40, you should look at how air is forced through the radiator. For cars overheating while idling, look at a bigger fan (or one that moves more air.)

                          Switching to straight water (with "addititves") can also help (greater heat carrying capacity...) A 14psi cap will keep the water from boiling boiling to over 246F. (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...ter-d_926.html , the table is in absolute pressure so 14.7+14 = 28.7psi for a 14psi cap.)

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                          • #14
                            I learned that sealing my radiator caused vapor lock but did help with cooling. Evidently that gap at the top of the radiator was encouraging some good airflow into the engine compartment. Luckily I made it easy enough to reverse or apply I can use it as needed on DW.
                            Last edited by BlueCuda340; September 5, 2012, 10:48 AM.
                            1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                            1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BlueCuda340 View Post
                              I learned that sealing my radiator caused vapor lock but did help with cooling. Evidently that gap at the top of the radiator was encouraging some good airflow into the engine compartment. Luckily I made it easy enough to reverse or apply I can use it as needed on DW.
                              Makes sense since more of the air getting into the engine bay will be hotter... Another way to deal with the vapor lock would be to insulate... Either the sources of heat in the engine bay (ie. exhaust header /manifolds, pipes) or the fuel line itself...

                              Ceramic coating the manifolds would be best, but Summit does sell insulation with a heatshield.

                              (With my plan A car I was experimenting with a lot of heatsheilding to protect a couple items underhood from heat from the turbo and header. )

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