Originally posted by lun40119
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Solid Roller Guys...
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Last edited by tsanchez; April 24, 2013, 01:48 PM.Dragweek 2012 DNF in Dallas
Dragweek 2013 Finished 3rd place modified N/A 10.53 @ 126
Dragweek 2015 Finished tough trip 10.39 @ 131
Fastest AMC 2013/ 2015
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I'm also running the coated 2.40" Ti intake valve on a ductile iron seat. Everything looks good so far....
As far as useful life the trophy trucks my build is modeled after get a season maybe two on theirs in a way more violent environment than our street miles drag week situation.
X2 on the pushrods, to get to .5" I'd have to have dual taper to clear the lifter tie bar and the roller body so it's been .120 7/16's to date.
I'm glad I'm not into the racy stuff like Jake, too much $$$$, not enough left for beer.Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?
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[QUOTE=Rat Infested;760338]Originally posted by lun40119 View PostYou need to have a "windowed" block.....cylinder needs to be sealed from oil, and the lazers sit in the cylinder looking up at the valve.
Great, anyone got a windowed 10.7 deck .400 raised cam BBC I could borrow or buy?-Bobby-
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Mike, I'm going to run 3/8" pushrods 1/8" wall, which by my figuring leaves 1/8" oil hole. Is that the same wall as yours and do you think it restricts oil flow? Also running TD's steel with .040 spring oilers. Drilled restricters from .020 to .050. Thoughts?First place SSBBNA 2014 and 2015
Second place SSBBNA 2016
Third place SSBBNA 2017
Quickest ET in DD and Quickest Pontiac 2008, 2016 and 2017
All 13 years of Drag Week in a Black 1969 Pontiac with Pontiac Power
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Originally posted by BlackGTO View PostMike, I'm going to run 3/8" pushrods 1/8" wall, which by my figuring leaves 1/8" oil hole. Is that the same wall as yours and do you think it restricts oil flow? Also running TD's steel with .040 spring oilers. Drilled restricters from .020 to .050. Thoughts?
but the springs need oil to help remove heat.... I'll see if the springs have enough
oil for cooling this summer.. if I need I will add spray bars but I dont think its gonna
be needed from when I had the covers off when it was running.... JMOLast edited by MR P-BODY; April 25, 2013, 06:05 AM.
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That's what I'm triing to do is cool the springs more along with getting the coil bind issue fixed. Engine oil cooler too.First place SSBBNA 2014 and 2015
Second place SSBBNA 2016
Third place SSBBNA 2017
Quickest ET in DD and Quickest Pontiac 2008, 2016 and 2017
All 13 years of Drag Week in a Black 1969 Pontiac with Pontiac Power
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Originally posted by BlackGTO View PostThat's what I'm triing to do is cool the springs more along with getting the coil bind issue fixed. Engine oil cooler too.
have a 10 qt pan that I made but I hold it 1 qt short and I have a remote mounted
filter with about 6' of #8 line (3' going to and from the filter) and the filter is in air flow
but again testing will tell
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Originally posted by BlackGTO View PostThat's what I'm triing to do is cool the springs more along with getting the coil bind issue fixed. Engine oil cooler too.
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I just put a cooler on mine. I never saw much over 205 without it last summer. pulling a load up some hills I am not sure what it would do so I put one on. I have about a 8.5 quart system now.
Tim86 Mustang
454 LSX FTI ls3 Mast 4500 Holley EFI 8" with C4, FTI Hyd Roller 9.24 143.5 1.33 3.73 5.84 116.21
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I'm incorporating a cooler into my build (was the plan from Day 1). I figure the extra weight is offset by additional oil capacity, plus the obvious benefit of the cooler itself. I'm plumbing it with -12AN lines thoughDW2013 - DNF (Gateway - trans failure)
DW2014 - SR BB/PA class winner!
DW2015 - Finished in 1 piece (for once!)
DW2016 - Still "Fox Free" ;)
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