Valve Seals

[Beagle]

You should use a plastic "rubber" ( like a Cigarette wrapper almost) over the valve as you install it to keep from damaging the edge as it goes thru it

Braum's has the biggest diameter straws last I checked...

[BlueCuda340]

Im using whatever shady dell put on there.

I can elaborate more on this now. Mine has teflons on it, I had two springs off when setting the cam this last weekend. They seem to be OK. It didn't burn a drop of oil on DW last year.

[MR P-BODY]

I'm gonna go with the blue ones shown... I've heard good things
about them.. specially on a street engine.. I have to pull apart my
W-2 heads today to check the springs, valves and the seals.. I might
touch up the valves since I have them apart... but if they look good
I'll leave them alone... since I use stones for the valve grind it takes
me much longer to do all the angles

[JeffMcKC]

I learned at least for me, a long time ago to send them out, a proprietary cutter is used not all valve jobs are created equal. Some very well known shops will borrow a shops cutter or send them over to have it done for them if they wont loan it. You can kill a lot of flow with a slightly off valve job. 30 CFM was found in Doc's heads just on the valve job alone.

[MR P-BODY]

I learned at least for me, a long time ago to send them out, a proprietary cutter is used not all valve jobs are created equal. Some very well known shops will borrow a shops cutter or send them over to have it done for them if they wont loan it. You can kill a lot of flow with a slightly off valve job. 30 CFM was found in Doc's heads just on the valve job alone.

I've been doing mine for years... I use to take my heads into work
and have them flowed after I did a valve job and they looked real
good on the bench... now I dont have that option since I retired...
the low flow numbers looked real good on this set when I had them
flowed last time... but this set isnt a maxed out set

[CDMBill]

I learned at least for me, a long time ago to send them out, a proprietary cutter is used not all valve jobs are created equal. Some very well known shops will borrow a shops cutter or send them over to have it done for them if they wont loan it. You can kill a lot of flow with a slightly off valve job. 30 CFM was found in Doc's heads just on the valve job alone.

Some testing on this aspect makes a big difference and of course each head/valve combination wants something a little different. We use multiple cuts not to mention how the valve is shaped.

On the OP we are using the metal wrapped Viton as well.

[Beagle]

feeding the derail for a moment, I saw something or read it where the guys were cnc cutting the seats and reported having 99 discreet angles programmed into the "radius"

Is this marketing foofoo or would there be any advantage to a fully "radius'd" valve seat?

[JeffMcKC]

The seats can preform many functions including helping control reversion

[MR P-BODY]

feeding the derail for a moment, I saw something or read it where the guys were cnc cutting the seats and reported having 99 discreet angles programmed into the "radius"

Is this marketing foofoo or would there be any advantage to a fully "radius'd" valve seat?

From what I've seen a radius is the best for the flow... but seat life is short since
its only touching at a point and tends to go flat after the beating it gets

[c2xejk]

From what I've seen a radius is the best for the flow... but seat life is short since
its only touching at a point and tends to go flat after the beating it gets

The radius seats I have seen are on the exhaust side and they have a flat section in the middle where the valve makes contact.

[MR P-BODY]

The radius seats I have seen are on the exhaust side and they have a flat section in the middle where the valve makes contact.

But a total radius is better for flow... its not that big of a deal
on the exhaust side since its the piston pushing out the gasses
but on a N/A the piston only creates the negative for the atmospheric
pressure to push it in

[MR P-BODY]

Buy the way.. I torn down my engine(thats gonna go in the car)..
everything looked great.... but I did see that the idler for the gear
drive was loose... seems the bolt in the back of it has come loose
and thankfully it didnt fall right off... or jump timing... this is on a
KB gear drive(single idler).. I've been running these gear drives for
years and have them on multiple engines.... first time I ever had a issue..
but everything else looks great.. if I wanted to I COULD put the same
bearings back in.. they look like new...... the ONE problem is.. I forgot
this block is a partial fill.... I dont know if I want to use it with a oil cooler
or try to find another 340 block...if I can find a block in a few days then
I'll go with another block

[CDMBill]

I like the oil cooler and current block that's proven route personally as its has fewer things that can go wrong IMHO.

[MR P-BODY]

I like the oil cooler and current block that's proven route personally as its has fewer things that can go wrong IMHO.

Yeah... I know what your saying
EDIT
I think I have 2 more blocks and one should be good
but I would have to check it.. it was a running engine
but its been up in the pole barn... I forgot about them..
too much junk... or cant remember shit

[Beagle]

I understand CRS a little too well today. I found a set of pistons I honestly don't remember buying.