For You Guys That Monitor Oil Temps

[MR P-BODY]

For you guys that read the oil temps that run on the road..
what do you normally see and at what conditions... I have
a partially filled block but will run a oil cooler with a fan on
it .. I would like to know at what temp I should have the fan
kick on... I will have a temp switch on it..I'm thinking 220...
what do you guys see
Thanks

[TheEngineWorks.com]

I never have known my oil temp, but now with the Racepak going in the car right now, and the Racepak dash, I will be monitoring it, and may add an oil cooler, got a brand new B&M Supercooler w/ fan waiting to go in. I feel at times my oil temp has been an issue, and my opinion is, on the road, you almost can't have the oil temp too cool on "edgy" engines like these..

[Joe Barry]

I see between 190-200 degrees it is very close to my water temp

[MR P-BODY]

I see between 190-200 degrees it is very close to my water temp

thanks... I've had a few say they see about 200 max even with partially filled
blocks but they run a oil cooler... this gives me a idea where to have the fan kick on

[73fish]

I have had several conversations about this subject with several machinest's and Oil engineers at amsoil, from what I can gather from talking with them that they would prefeer that the oil temperatures be with in 10 deg F of the water temp. If the oil temp is to cold that will cause bearing flaking. I have asked the max temp for oil temperatures and that varries some 270 to 300 deg F is fine with them but if you ger much over 300 then the oil starts to break down and cause problems. One thing I have learned over the years is that alot of the oil temperature is in the valve springs. I had a problem with the car loosing 2 to 3 MPH on one DW so I chaged the springs, the new springs were the same part number 9985 Tool Room springs except the new ones were coated, on the road I noticed that the oil temp dropped about 10 to 15 deg and we were running the same speed and conditions. Now I am back to the noncoted springs and the oil temp is back up to 170 to 200 deg. Just my two .02$

[TheEngineWorks.com]

What I've gotten to accept, when it comes to manufacturers suggestions, they mean well, and many of the representatives are knowledgeable, but very few of them really consider all the parameters when it comes to running an event like Drag Week, they do their best, but you're mostly on your own to make your own judgments.. DW is such an unusual event, and that's why I love the challenge of it, and the reason I first started building "edgy" engines for street use well before DW was ever thought of.

For the street drive, I don't think you can get the oil too cool.. If you take the oil off the springs for a moment at RPM, they will be DEAD, this is something to consider when considering what oil temp you want to run on the street. On track, yes you need some oil temp, but on the street, cooler oil temps will always be better then hotter.

[quick 52]

It's kind of like beer is that what your saying

[73fish]

If you take the oil off the springs for a moment at RPM, they will be DEAD, this is something to consider when considering what oil temp you want to run on the street. On track, yes you need some oil temp, but on the street, cooler oil temps will always be better then hotter.

I agree with you, I put alot of oil up to the top of the motor just for that reason to cool the springs, it helps on the spring life.

[BlueCuda340]

I agree with you, I put alot of oil up to the top of the motor just for that reason to cool the springs, it helps on the spring life.

Are you using spring oilers? Mine still oils through the rockers but the cam is grooved so it oils full time. Its worked well for on DW but my stuff is slow lol.

[73fish]

Are you using spring oilers? Mine still oils through the rockers but the cam is grooved so it oils full time. Its worked well for on DW but my stuff is slow lol.

I have T&d Rockers that oil through the pushrods and the rockers have the spring oiler option that oil the spring and tip.

[MR P-BODY]

I have T&d Rockers that oil through the pushrods and the rockers have the spring oiler option that oil the spring and tip.

I'm running the TD single shafts on the W-2, it is standard oiling... the W-5 is TD multi
shafts and is push rod oiling
thanks for the info guys... I guess when I get this on the road again I will see what I get
for oil temps and adjust the fan to what I want... hopefully it cools it enough without the fan
but its there... just in case
I got the bottom end all done today and I want to tear down the heads to see how they are
and replace the seals... gotta check the springs also
Also I am running a large capacity pan... more than most anyone runs so with the volume
it might help keep it cooler

[CDMBill]

My total oiling system is 9.5 quarts between the "T" sump pan, the external pump, remote filter. I have the same target as Joe which is down the road oil temps more or less the same as the water temp. The data logs show that to be pretty consistent across all loads and temps so I think I have my cooler sized correctly, an Earl's plate style which looks exactly like a Setrab. Same brand for the tranny if it matters.

I'm running Jesel pro series shaft rockers and I'm going to add valve cover based spring oilers as I already have occasional breakage issues with the rockers which I've mostly solved with frequncy of replacement. Springs had been on a two year replacement cycle, but with the recent issue (see the valve spring thread) I need to step that up too.

You'd think with all this crap I might actually go halfway fast, but you'd be mistaken.

[TheEngineWorks.com]

My total oiling system is 9.5 quarts between the "T" sump pan, the external pump, remote filter. I have the same target as Joe which is down the road oil temps more or less the same as the water temp. The data logs show that to be pretty consistent across all loads and temps so I think I have my cooler sized correctly, an Earl's plate style which looks exactly like a Setrab. Same brand for the tranny if it matters.

I'm running Jesel pro series shaft rockers and I'm going to add valve cover based spring oilers as I already have occasional breakage issues with the rockers which I've mostly solved with frequncy of replacement. Springs had been on a two year replacement cycle, but with the recent issue (see the valve spring thread) I need to step that up too.

You'd think with all this crap I might actually go halfway fast, but you'd be mistaken.

That's ok Bill, even though you're only half-fast, it's fast enough to break!

[CDMBill]

Yes indeed, and I am a cunning linguist too.