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  • #31
    Originally posted by 73fish View Post
    Been driving mine on and off all year between changing and testing. Drove it out to get fuel, it was 98 degs today and the water and oil temperature ran 190 deg. at 70+ MPH. The vapor locking I still need to work on, the fuel gets hot and boils in the tank and then the fuel pressure starts droping. I plan on wrapping the exhaust where it goes by the tank. Any other sugestions??????
    I also run the Aeromotive A1000 with filters hung across the front of the stock type steel tank. Lots of cooling air there. Lines are protected with Thermotech cooling tubes where close to heat. Earls' nylon braided under the hood, well away from hot engine parts. The fuel rails are cooler than surrounding hard parts due to cooler fuel. Lines are braided SS on outside of frame rails, -10 to and from regulator. I tried 5 gallon cell with pump in trunk to save weight at DW '11' boiled fuel after two laps at KCIR in 90* heat on Sunday. No issues with stock 20 gal. Tank 1/4 full and external mount pump & filters.
    Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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    • #32
      no driving as of yet and no passes.
      Reading , Pa
      Good Guys rodders rep.
      "putting the seat down is women's work" Archie Bunker.
      Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars .

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      • #33
        Originally posted by slimbo5 View Post
        Mikes deal is injected. And I'm pretty sure he runs a return style aeromotive setup. If he says the fuel is heating up he's pretty sure of it. All my fuel hoses from the trans forward are run in sleeving with reflective coating. I run a product engineering electric with a -8 bypass and a dead head regulator with a .022 bleed to keep it consistent. Is it all sleeved with heat sleeve?
        Yes it is complete Aeromotive return style system, with #10 feed and return lines, 10 GA wires to the pump. I have exhaust wrap, and a controler on the way.
        Last year when this happened I just put a bag of ice on the cell with a hole ripped in it, and the problem was solved.

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        • #34
          About 400 road miles and no passes on a old heap that has had nearly everything
          replaced/changed/modified. What could go wrong?
          Last edited by Dave_62; August 30, 2013, 09:53 AM.
          2015 Street Machine Eliminator Runner-up
          2016 Street Machine Eliminator Winner

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          • #35
            I'm curious to see how well the controller works. And how it's activated to return to full power.
            "Friends don't let friends run the daily driver class,"

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            • #36
              Carl had a number of issues with his aeromotive controller last year in his orange / black '55 - they got it sorted out after a few days but I don't recall what the solution was... I hope he chimes in here.
              There's always something new to learn.

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              • #37
                Just one day at the track this year but lots of road miles.
                Drag Week 2006 11.00 index DNF
                Drag Week 2011 DD
                Drag week 2012 Hot Rod Winner
                Drag week 2013 Hot Rod Winner

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                • #38
                  Need fuel line with cooling fins.
                  Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                  1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                  1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                  1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                  1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                  1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                  • #39
                    Hope I ain't jinxing me self but I've have a controller on my a1000 and no issues as of now. Not an enormous amount of time/miles/hours in about 3 yrs of installation though. Was on a wheel dyno thurs and thurs pm pulled trani and converter and they are on their way to N Carolina. Won't see them till next thurs or fri. Going to try. Never got a good pull on dyno. Might be riding a Goat again.
                    First place SSBBNA 2014 and 2015
                    Second place SSBBNA 2016
                    Third place SSBBNA 2017
                    Quickest ET in DD and Quickest Pontiac 2008, 2016 and 2017
                    All 13 years of Drag Week in a Black 1969 Pontiac with Pontiac Power

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                    • #40
                      Well I installed the motor, drove 240 miles made 3 passes, hot weather DA 5300 went 11.07@127mph with a shitty launch, then took her drag dress off and drove another 240 miles home.... Monday we are starting the 2200 mile drive to BG, no trailer by a shit load of spare parts in the trunk! 722hp and a overdrive cant wait! Have to check where I can use the radar detector!!

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by guidos View Post
                        Well I installed the motor, drove 240 miles made 3 passes, hot weather DA 5300 went 11.07@127mph with a shitty launch, then took her drag dress off and drove another 240 miles home.... Monday we are starting the 2200 mile drive to BG, no trailer by a shit load of spare parts in the trunk! 722hp and a overdrive cant wait! Have to check where I can use the radar detector!!

                        Nice job!!
                        Dragweek 2012 DNF in Dallas
                        Dragweek 2013 Finished 3rd place modified N/A 10.53 @ 126
                        Dragweek 2015 Finished tough trip 10.39 @ 131
                        Fastest AMC 2013/ 2015

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by BBR View Post
                          Need fuel line with cooling fins.
                          Or to not recirculate so much fuel (several ways to do that, IMO)


                          (too bad most of these say "not for fuel injection" and don't seem to come in the big -10 & -12 sizes)


                          Maybe a large marine-style oil cooler would have sufficient flow and pressure capacity . . . . If so, you could get fairly trick with that.

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                          • #43
                            Pro stock scoop on the trunk lid to cool the cell down. Or raise the front of the trunk lid to get some air in there for the drives. Be sure to close it if we hit rain.
                            "Friends don't let friends run the daily driver class,"

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by slimbo5 View Post
                              Pro stock scoop on the trunk lid to cool the cell down. Or raise the front of the trunk lid to get some air in there for the drives. Be sure to close it if we hit rain.
                              Yes!
                              Escaped on a technicality.

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                              • #45
                                "cool cans" have been barred by NHRA and most tracks for a long time because they leak or drip condensation onto the track.

                                Because in-trunk fuel cells are in essence insulated containers in a hot box they contribute to the problem and might well need a finned tube or other kind of external cooler.

                                I used the Aeromtive controller for years with no issues. It uses a tach signal to determine the rpm point where it goes from low volume to high volume. I disconnected it last year when I was chasing a strange reading on my fuel pressure and saw no difference, but my tank is steel in stock location under trunk which helps with cooling. The contoller could make a huge difference with a fuel cell, as volume drops by about half even though it still holds pressure.
                                Drag Week 2006 & 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - R/U 2007 Broke DW '05 and Drag Weekend '15 Coincidence?

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