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9" - 12 bolt

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  • CDMBill
    replied
    Originally posted by Orange65 View Post
    My 12 bolt is spooled and I drove thru some rough rain on DW. I had some squirrelly moments but that was while I was on drag radials (and once with a ladder bar bolt working its way out). The driving I have done with a spool in the rear has been about the same as when it had locker. Rain or shine. It just makes turning at really slow speeds tough. Mixing rain and wide tires with little tread made mucho difference (BAD COMBO).

    Do a little research on YB on street driving with a spool- I did last year before I got mine. I was a little concerned over some comments I read about some lockers locking and unlocking while racing. I can live with my spool- so far it is predictable.

    Arrgghh- a KIA Sportage!
    I have had no issues with a 35 spline locker street or races over 6 years. Given how they function having one lock and and unlock at the track seems impossible to absent abuse or neglect of some kind. There are always some folks who seem to have problems with everything. A lot of guys have completed the event with spools, but it's not my choice of a car that sees thousands of street miles and doesn't make 1500-2500 hp.

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  • BBO Javelin
    replied
    I drove on slicks and skinnies the whole way with spool. I was driving about 20 in the rain but other than that the spool wasn't that noticeable.

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  • Orange65
    replied
    Originally posted by greenXpress View Post
    Need to finish paying off DW2013 before I can do anything, but was looking at a spool with both 12 bolt and 9" because of price. I am concerned how it will react on street. This is my daily driver. Not just during drag week, I am stuck in an old kia sportage until I get the truck fixed.
    Do you drive on street during bad weather?
    My 12 bolt is spooled and I drove thru some rough rain on DW. I had some squirrelly moments but that was while I was on drag radials (and once with a ladder bar bolt working its way out). The driving I have done with a spool in the rear has been about the same as when it had locker. Rain or shine. It just makes turning at really slow speeds tough. Mixing rain and wide tires with little tread made mucho difference (BAD COMBO).

    Do a little research on YB on street driving with a spool- I did last year before I got mine. I was a little concerned over some comments I read about some lockers locking and unlocking while racing. I can live with my spool- so far it is predictable.

    Arrgghh- a KIA Sportage!

    Leave a comment:


  • greenXpress
    replied
    Originally posted by BBO Javelin View Post
    12 bolt is tough. I blew the spiders out on my moser 12 bolt a month before DW. I put a full spool in it and all is good. It's a stick car and I leave at 6,000.
    Need to finish paying off DW2013 before I can do anything, but was looking at a spool with both 12 bolt and 9" because of price. I am concerned how it will react on street. This is my daily driver. Not just during drag week, I am stuck in an old kia sportage until I get the truck fixed.
    Do you drive on street during bad weather?

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  • BBO Javelin
    replied
    12 bolt is tough. I blew the spiders out on my moser 12 bolt a month before DW. I put a full spool in it and all is good. It's a stick car and I leave at 6,000.

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  • bulletproof
    replied
    id go 9'' tons of options.. cheap. and you can swap gears fast..

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  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    I'd have to dig up the bill, but the 9" and housing I got from Quick Performance with a tru-trac, 1350 yoke, and 31-spline axles (my decision to stay that low) was surprisingly cheap and had no issues with my request to have the axles drilled for both 5x5 and 4.75x5 bolt pattern with the studs installed in the 5x5 holes. Two other companies I called had issues with this and with selling an essentially ready to go package of carrier, case, housing and axles, but Quick Performance had no issues putting my order together and it showed up at my door step in half the time they quoted me.

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  • CDMBill
    replied
    I'm a big fan of the newer aftermarket 9" pumpkins from Strange, Currie, Moser etc. A lot of goodness for the dollar. I run the Strange Pro-iron case which is overkill for you at the moment, but with the large bearing 9+ or similar and the big pinion support it'll hold up better than any 12 bolt you can buy for less money. Go 35 spline if the budget permits and there are Tru-trac units for 35 spline now. It will be more money than you might want to spend, but it'll live for years. Oh, and get the housing braced and straight.

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  • ProCharged509
    replied
    Originally posted by greenXpress View Post
    Tubes are welded, along with my homemade version of cal-tracs, 1350 already on, and have pre-load aluminum cover. Gear Motive ring & pinion with their installation kit (Timken)
    Currently have a series 3 (3.43 LS) I carry as a spare, but my series 4 carrier puked out the spiders and by time I buy them, I'm close to a new unit.
    I was hoping a stock 9" LS unit would be strong enough, but Dan's on his second in the 53 without spray. I found a complete unit (drum to drum with LS) out of a 79 Ford truck for $200 but will need to cut down left side and get new axles along with new ring & pinion.
    looks like I have another winter project as soon as I decide.
    With what you've already built, you only need a Truetrac or a Locker (you'd need aftermarket axles to run a spool).
    The truck 12 bolt Truetrac I saw at Summit is for 3.73 and deeper (4 series).
    If you go the 9" route, use a "big car" housing, nodular center section & pinion support (nodular or aluminum). I've see a bunch of non-nodular third member pinions puked right out on the starting line!

    Leave a comment:


  • poison gas
    replied
    Watch ebay and "racingjunk.com" and you'll find what you need after you make your choice on which way to go. I troll both for my parts. Oh by the way, Mid 70's lincolns have a 9" thats almost the same width as your truck and is the heavy duty housing with the same bolt pattern.
    Last edited by poison gas; November 3, 2013, 08:49 PM.

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  • greenXpress
    replied
    Originally posted by ProCharged509 View Post
    I suggest you keep the truck 12 bolt (that housing is stronger than car 12 bolts)
    Verify the housing is straight, weld the tubes to the center section, drill out & re-weld the rosette welds & strap the spring perches.
    Truetrac (about $430 at Summit)
    Street Gears
    Quality bearings
    Aluminum rear cover (with the carrier cap preload bolts)
    Synthetic gear lube (like Amsoil "Extreme Gear" 90wt)

    ...while you're got it apart, you might also consider...
    1350 u-joint drive shaft & yokes (Spicer parts front & rear)
    Big bearing c-clip eliminator kit for stock brakes (if housing is straight)
    or... Big bearing weld-on housing ends for stock brakes (if housing straightening is needed)

    Tubes are welded, along with my homemade version of cal-tracs, 1350 already on, and have pre-load aluminum cover. Gear Motive ring & pinion with their installation kit (Timken)
    Currently have a series 3 (3.43 LS) I carry as a spare, but my series 4 carrier puked out the spiders and by time I buy them, I'm close to a new unit.
    I was hoping a stock 9" LS unit would be strong enough, but Dan's on his second in the 53 without spray. I found a complete unit (drum to drum with LS) out of a 79 Ford truck for $200 but will need to cut down left side and get new axles along with new ring & pinion.
    looks like I have another winter project as soon as I decide.

    Leave a comment:


  • ProCharged509
    replied
    I suggest you keep the truck 12 bolt (that housing is stronger than car 12 bolts)
    Verify the housing is straight, weld the tubes to the center section, drill out & re-weld the rosette welds & strap the spring perches.
    Truetrac (about $430 at Summit)
    Street Gears
    Quality bearings
    Aluminum rear cover (with the carrier cap preload bolts)
    Synthetic gear lube (like Amsoil "Extreme Gear" 90wt)

    ...while you're got it apart, you might also consider...
    1350 u-joint drive shaft & yokes (Spicer parts front & rear)
    Big bearing c-clip eliminator kit for stock brakes (if housing is straight)
    or... Big bearing weld-on housing ends for stock brakes (if housing straightening is needed)

    Leave a comment:


  • LAGNAF
    replied
    If you go with the9". Definitely get a good limited slip or locker!!

    Last Friday I just destroyed my 2nd stock ford LS trying to back up my 11.87 pass!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • quick 52
    replied
    If your handy and can fabricate then put your bracket on a 9" housing isn't that bad.... you can google length of rear and find a rear the the will work... they also have off set housing the yoke will be offset to the pass side 4" mainly in older trucks this makes both axle the same length... its not a problem using one been running one for years... also there are different housing some are HD and some light duty try and stay with a truck housing bronco.. Ford uses a 2 pinion and 4 pinion posi both are weak a locker is best but loud there many aftermarket posi I use a truetrac been good but wish I would have used a locker... posi and locker come in 28,31,35 spolls come in 28,31,33,35 and larger... then there the third member or case, pig nodular case is hard to fine but under 550hp a stock case will hold up with a Daytona support... Some run the old war pigs I have with good luck some say their weak your call moser makes a 9+ good for 600hp for a couple hundred im using one hope this helps

    Leave a comment:


  • Orange65
    replied
    My truck has a 12 bolt impala rear that has a spool, a steel cap, girdle, Moser axles, and 9" housing ends. The rear has also had the tubes welded into the housing. With all this done, I would say it is probably good to low 9 sec range if I brace it. I started down this road years ago and it is just cheaper to upgrade rather than replace it.

    That being said, I would go with a 9". That saves you from buying c clip eliminators. Spool it and buy some Moser axles. As you can afford it, go to an aftermarket center section and pinion support. Depending on how quick you want to go, you may need to brace it too. Nitrous is going to load the rear up especially pushing 4700#.

    If you decide to stay with a 12 bolt, you need to find a big car rear. Trucks have a smaller pinion diameter and are weaker. NHRA used to not allow truck rears to my memory.

    Leave a comment:

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