T/A Not on the back burner anymore, been a long while getting to this point. Up and running again! Installing new front steering next; new Proforged inners, outers, and Idler. Then having the GEN II subframe connectors welded in. Tried to load a brief video, but wrong format to post here.
Trans Am is the only car in your signature that doesn't have "Long Hauler" next to it. Glad to see you are taking the first steps to get that remedied. Always preferred the 79-81 front end to the ubiquitous '77, love the movie but I am getting pretty burnt out on Bandit clones.
T/A Not on the back burner anymore, been a long while getting to this point. Up and running again! Installing new front steering next; new Proforged inners, outers, and Idler. Then having the GEN II subframe connectors welded in. Tried to load a brief video, but wrong format to post here.
Last year for RWD Riviera. Some 78s were a limited 75 anniversary edition. 2899 made with two tone silver and black paint scheme. My 77 was gold with tilt/telescope steering column and 8 track stereo. This one is sliver with an olds 403. 78s had fake stainless interior trim instead of the fake wood on the 77s. Very little difference otherwise. Similar to the 71-72 Chevelles. They look like a bigger version of the G body Regals. Ad is still up. If no one is interested in it I might be able to get it cheaper.
I found a car I want on Craigslist. Almost the car I had in HS. My first car was a 77 Riviera. This car is a 78 which is nearly identical other than the plastic wood is plastic stainless and the roof and dash are black. They claim it has 50k miles on it. Only $1500 and about an hour from home. Says bill of sale only which I don't like. I need another car like I need a hole in the head. Just changed the oil in DD for the first time in 13 months. post id: 7480914170 If VIN is right it has a 403 Olds engine.
The ones that I am talking about were a different type of block freeze plug. Back in the 1970's, when I was building engines at a repair shop, we bought them at the local parts store for a problem block that we could not get the metal kind to completely seal in. They came in a variety of sizes but I haven't seen them in awhile.
I found a car I want on Craigslist. Almost the car I had in HS. My first car was a 77 Riviera. This car is a 78 which is nearly identical other than the plastic wood is plastic stainless and the roof and dash are black. They claim it has 50k miles on it. Only $1500 and about an hour from home. Says bill of sale only which I don't like. I need another car like I need a hole in the head. Just changed the oil in DD for the first time in 13 months. post id: 7480914170 If VIN is right it has a 403 Olds engine.
I have seen the old school rubber block freeze plug used. The kind with the nut that you push the rubber into the hole & then tighten the nut on top to make it tighten up the rubber & seal the hole. Not the most attractive but it will seal the hole up.
Carb is undecided while I move along and ponder the next little thing...
The TA came with these Holley tall valve covers - boogered up and cracked at several mount holes, I did some searching for old school replacements. (No interest in mass-produced Chinese stamped steel chrome).
Found these M/T covers in good shape... only Problem here is both covers have holes knocked out. Just need one for PCV valve, and can't find any type of block off plate. Substituting push in oil fill cap for now.
had a quick media blast done and coated in satin black... planning to leave'm like this for now.
Anyone have a good solution for more permanent hole block off instead of the oil fill cap?
... but do I just get a new Holley double like it used to have(so we know it fits) or go to the Edelbrock which I have always found easier to adjust?
Personally, I am a big fan of Vacuum Secondary Holleys for street applications. The street avenger might be a good call - no experience with those BUT if they are like the old VS carbs - with primary and secondary metering blocks with removable jets and quick change VS springs then that is the way I would lean. You can tune the secondaries to be pretty quick with a light spring and a beefy squirter.
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