Originally posted by 70chevyC-10
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Originally posted by htrdharley View PostAllen, the holes ( Usually 1" below the originals ) are commonly done to lower the front end of the car. A factory modification on Shelby Mustangs.
Hope it helps the feel of the car.Last edited by cstmwgn; March 29, 2019, 06:08 AM.
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How about a pick of the Fairlane and your truck -- share the love.
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Allen, the holes ( Usually 1" below the originals ) are commonly done to lower the front end of the car. A factory modification on Shelby Mustangs.
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thats the shelby mod to correct camper issues, correct? IIRC that's a common fix on mustangs as well?
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Ahhhh.....the joy of our hobby. Glad parts are available for it.
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Funny how these projects go from 20’s to 100’s in a hurry. A projected $40 problem often winds up in the $350 range. But it is fun!
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Originally posted by 74NovaMan View PostI would be a shame not to do a disc brake conversion since you have it that far apart!Not sure if you've ordered parts yet, but we got the fully assembled and painted Scott Drake stuff for our mustang and were pretty happy with it.
As to brakes - this is suppose to be my driver while I redo the truck - so a disk brake upgrade will have to include hydroboost, master cylinder, brake lines, wheels and tires on top of the actual disk brake kit. All this given my history would push that part of the upgrade to well over 3K if I go cheap on the wheels and tires. Nothing I am doing right now would be wasted - Wilwood has drum brake spindle kits.
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I would be a shame not to do a disc brake conversion since you have it that far apart!Not sure if you've ordered parts yet, but we got the fully assembled and painted Scott Drake stuff for our mustang and were pretty happy with it.
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Is this project scope or poor diagnostic skill?
My daily driver (66 Fairlane) developed a pull to the right with no recent trauma.
So I jacked the car up and started a visual inspection. The wheel bearings / steering linkage all seemed tight. I did notice that the lower eccentric appeared to have moved (turned). So I loosened the adjuster and the lower control arm appeared to have some slope in it. Upon further inspection, I found a fairly used up LCA bushing
So I figured what the heck - I will look at the other side just in case it is used up as well.
After a couple of hours, I ended up at this point
So, I decided to clean things up a bit. And low and behold I found two new holes
And now that I have found those new holes, I decided to clean and inspect the parts to determine fitness of reuse.
After glass beading the upper control arms and finding both sides cracked at the spring perch / saddle mounting bolts (both bolts on both sides!). I decided perhaps new upper control arms was prudent. The theory was that the spring saddles caused this to happen over the life of the car (these parts appeared to be originals). And of course the spring saddles were shot so new and improved ones of those were put on the list. On to the lower control arms. SOMEONE decided to replace the lower ball joints with some that were almost correct - nothing drilling extra holes and elongating existing holes would not address. The boots were badly torn and while not toast, the joints themselves seemed loose. So now lower control arms are on the list. At this point, I decided to go all in and replace the springs and shocks.
So this job went from a front end alignment (slipped camber eccentric) to a complete suspension rebuild!
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Pondering why I spent four hours at an auction. The one thing I wanted sold almost last and went for way more than it should have.
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Originally posted by 70chevyC-10 View Postalso - laying them out in the sun to warm up first too - more pliable
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also - laying them out in the sun to warm up first too - more pliable
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Originally posted by 70chevyC-10 View Post
hopefully they have some installation videos - -I've seen where people use a garbage bag (or some spray stuff) over the seatback to make the cover slide on easily and you leave it under the cover
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