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Things I am pondering today

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Anyone recognize what type of diagnostic tool this might be used for?
    Found this wire bolted to battery of the SS when I removed it for winter storage. Bolts in pic are from the +/- terminals of the battery. Wire was tucked up into fender. Absolutely nothing else anywhere near that location so must be for some type of electronic tool. Has 3amp inline fuse.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Thank you all for your input! I appreciate the assistance in finding a replacement for the Amsoil stuff.

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  • oletrux4evr
    replied
    I run Valvoline 10W40 in Earl and Gracie. The wagon's 455 is a different story. I
    used VR1 20-50 for it's break in period, but now it gets Mobil 1 15-50.
    Last edited by oletrux4evr; November 25, 2023, 11:14 AM.

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  • BluLightning
    replied
    Originally posted by Redline04 View Post

    I’ll take a look and see what they offer. Not a fan of 20w50 oils in our northern climate. The Amsoil the past owner used is a full synthetic, so likely I will stay with that type, just in a lighter weight oil.
    Have a great Thanksgiving!
    I run the conventional 10w40 in our cars. Neither one of them has a radical motor in it so they are fine. The hot rod oil is the stuff I use.

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  • moparjim71
    replied
    I’m also using Valvoline Racing oil in our cars.

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
    In Dino oils - I have gone back to VR1. It has high zinc as well and is available is some northern rates.
    I’ll look at the VR1 oils. The previous owner changed the oil less than 5mo. ago and less than 500 miles use, so I won’t change anything until spring weather comes back. I want something similar for the TA too, so once I decide, the same stuff will go into both vehicles.
    Have a great Thanksgiving :-)

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Originally posted by BluLightning View Post

    I use www.drivenracinigoil.com in both our old cars. A buddy of mine that raced high HP drag bikes recommended it because of the zinc content.
    I’ll take a look and see what they offer. Not a fan of 20w50 oils in our northern climate. The Amsoil the past owner used is a full synthetic, so likely I will stay with that type, just in a lighter weight oil.
    Have a great Thanksgiving!

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    In Dino oils - I have gone back to VR1. It has high zinc as well and is available is some northern rates.

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  • BluLightning
    replied
    Originally posted by Redline04 View Post
    Seeking helpful suggestions;
    For those of you experienced in well built big blocks (think built Chevy 454, Scat Crank, Wiseco 25cc dome top slugs, Comp cam stuff, etc)
    What would be a very good 10w40 high zinc oil to replace Amsoil 20w50 synthetic?
    Would like something "thinner" for the 20-30 late fall/early spring temperatures we get here in Wisconsin.
    I use www.drivenracinigoil.com in both our old cars. A buddy of mine that raced high HP drag bikes recommended it because of the zinc content.

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Seeking helpful suggestions;
    For those of you experienced in well built big blocks (think built Chevy 454, Scat Crank, Wiseco 25cc dome top slugs, Comp cam stuff, etc)
    What would be a very good 10w40 high zinc oil to replace Amsoil 20w50 synthetic?
    Would like something "thinner" for the 20-30 late fall/early spring temperatures we get here in Wisconsin.

    Leave a comment:


  • stu yoakam
    replied
    There was a plug at the fuse box to unhook the damaged wire harness. I should be able to splice the wires back together but may have to add some length back in. Still pissed off about it though. IDK if you can buy that harness or what it would cost but it goes from the block to the tail light harness that I already replaced due to multiple splices and scotch clips etc... That one was around $200 with shipping and tax.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    Apparently something ate through the wires for the back of the car a couple of inches away from the fuse box as well as the copper line from the temp gauge to the engine. I had tried the lights and only the fronts were working. I just put a new tail light harness in last year. It connects halfway down the side of the bed. I may have to pull the fuse box out to see if I can splice the wires back together. I am tempted to see about getting a new harness or a modern fuse box to eliminate the glass fuses.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    Neighbors complaining to the city that my ugly car never moves. Time to cut the mufflers off and start it up when I go to work every night at twelve. Careful what you wish for. The mustang next door never moves either and the wheels for it are in the yard next to the driveway. One house has people coming and going all day with some kind of daycare and one has chickens in the back making racket all the time. They all park on the street all hours of the day and night often on both sides of the road. My car is in the driveway and is tagged and insured with good tires on it. Replaced the rusty quarters years ago. We have lived here longer than two or three of them. There used to be a guy with a pro street road runner that had semis making deliveries. We are on a dead end road.
    People need to mind their own business. Already had to get rid of my pick up because of them. I don't know that they can legally do anything anyway. Two of them used to run their motorcycles at 5am or late at night maybe I need one of those. Not everyone can afford a brand new truck that has probably never been used for any truck things and its so nice you park it in the middle of the driveway like people who take up two or three spots in a parking lot.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    Got a new bracket for the throttle and TV cables on my car. A new one was cheaper than just the piece I needed for the transmission cable. Try to install it and the cable won't snap into the bracket. Hole is too big or the metal is too thick for the tabs? IDK. This kit is painted steel and the old one is aluminum. Entire kit including the throttle linkage adapter was $25 vs $35 or more for the aluminum adapter that goes on the rail. That's if it fit the cable when you got it. Was going to use zip ties to secure the cable housing to the bracket but I have to find them first. I could try to modify an old chrome one to work with the new rail. Won't look as nice though.
    Way it was set up the throttle was too stiff/had a hard time pressing the pedal.

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    If it can be too cold to snow - can it be too hot to hurricane?

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