Re: Because I don't WANT to go to the tech section
Originally posted by 173rdherd
mike...speaking of dowel pins, do i need one?
Woody is right. Dowel is for alignment purpose as holes are not evenly spaced. As long as you use grade eight bolts (which I see you have) of proper length you will be good. Torque to spec. Thread lock should not be needed.
Originally posted by 173rdherd
thanks Leon....i've been told to listen/feel for two "clicks" when installing the converter to insure proper seating.
First "click" will be when convertor engages splines on input shaft and second "click" will be when tabs of convertor engage front pump of trans. Should be almost no gap between convertor and frt of trans when fully inserted. Hopefully it won't take 20 times around to seat (but sometimes they are stubborn ???) Problem is if you push in while spinning, pump and ears can move together and therefore they can't "align" themselves as needed. So spin a little and then try to insert, spin a little more and try to insert. Repeat as needed.
The proof will be when installing trans to engine. Bellhousing should fit tight to block. If you have to use the bellhousing bolts to pull them together something is wrong. DO NOT proceed further until problem found and corrected. With trans tight to block, convertor will move fore and aft approx 1/4" to 3/8". Convertor bolts will "pull" convertor to flexplate and secure them together. Nut and bolt can sometimes go either way (doesn't matter), but most often the bolt goes in from flexplate side and nut on convertor side. Clearence and convienence will dictate which way to install .
Another thought, if the front seal is not new, now would be the time to change it instead of wishing you had later on :'(
BTW...Hi ya Woody
Donna Williamston, MI
Long Haul 2007,2008,2009,2010,2011 2012,2013,2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021
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