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What does your car need b4 the power tour?

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  • Jesse James 80
    replied
    My car tried to not go. Had a brake caliper blow when I was putting new pads in. Took it apart and the piston and cups (kelsey hayes 4 piston calipers) were loaded with rust and corrosion and no-one carries a 65 disc brake caliper in stock and the rebuilds had poor ratings, so I drove 4 hours round trip to Charlotte, NC to pick up a set of brand new calipers based on the original design from NPD. Very good quality reproduction. After the $250 sticker shock, I now have a car that stops again.
    Last edited by Jesse James 80; June 4, 2018, 11:42 AM.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    I finally got the alternator out. I had to cut the support bracket to get to the head of the top bolt. Once I worked the bracket out from behind the bolt head and it lost tension. I managed to find a mopar parts website and ordered a bracket and a bolt. It won't ship until at least Monday. I already missed a car show yesturday and a swap meet today. I still have to change the wheel bearing. I don't know if I have a 36mm socket. Better find out. They use nylock nuts now instead of cotter pins.

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  • Andy4639
    replied
    Only thing left to do is put my clothes in the trunk and ice down the cooler!

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    I have had excellent luck with Turbo Sockets when it comes to stuck/rounded fasteners... might be worth a try: https://www.google.com/search?q=turb...hrome&ie=UTF-8

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    Heat is too dangerous. The whole engine etc.. is all either aluminum or plastic. Tried working it back and forth but there's a washer under the bolt head so that doesn't help. Its just right up against the wheel well and ABS squid which is another do not hit hazard. Looks like I am driving the rust bucket for a day or two. Yeah, if special tool can't get it off, its gonna be ugly. I would hate to lose my core charge for the old alternator its like $35. I miss the old days when getting the belt tight enough was the hard part.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    There is actually a large hole in the back of the "sleeve" . Not impressed by the freeze stuff. Trimmed the bracket a little to get better access to the head of the bolt. That thing is way stronger than it needs to be IMO. I think I will invest in one of those special wrenches for fubar bolts. Can never have too many tools.

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Originally posted by stu yoakam View Post
    The only other thing I can think of is trying to drill a small hole in the sleeve of the alternator and squirting in more spray.
    Can you safely use any heat? Heat, penetrationng oil and moving the bolt back and forth has worked in the past for me.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    The only other thing I can think of is trying to drill a small hole in the sleeve of the alternator and squirting in more spray.

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Originally posted by stu yoakam View Post
    Took the hose off took the fans out took the covers off the bottom. Still can't get the top bolt loose. I think the head is starting to round off. I am about to resort to using my dremel tool to cut either the bracket or the head of the bolt off. Maybe both. I found the bracket for sale but the bolt is discontinued from the dealership and I can't find it online. The junkyard might have one. The bolt is so long I would have to cut the head off and then cut it between the alt flange and mounting boss of the timing cover/head and then hope I can use vise grips or something to back it out. This is the third day and its way too hot outside. I might try freeze off next.
    I don't know anything about Dodges but on Fords you need to be careful you don't ring it off. If you can't get it off with a socket I can't imagine how you would get it off with vice grips.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    Took the hose off took the fans out took the covers off the bottom. Still can't get the top bolt loose. I think the head is starting to round off. I am about to resort to using my dremel tool to cut either the bracket or the head of the bolt off. Maybe both. I found the bracket for sale but the bolt is discontinued from the dealership and I can't find it online. The junkyard might have one. The bolt is so long I would have to cut the head off and then cut it between the alt flange and mounting boss of the timing cover/head and then hope I can use vise grips or something to back it out. This is the third day and its way too hot outside. I might try freeze off next.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    After two days, I have decided to say screw it and am going to take off the top radiator hose to get more room to remove the top alternator bolt. As is the ABS and hose are making it very difficult. After soaking the bolts for a full day and using an 18 volt impact, I got the two bottom bolts out and the bracket loose from the block. Advance Auto keeps giving online discounts so I ordered a wheel hub/nut and top hose. Its at least four years old. Belt still looks OK. Oreillys is the only one in walking distance but they don't have any of it in stock. At least I have my el camino to drive now. Its already in the 90s can't wait for a week from now and in the south.

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  • stu yoakam
    replied
    You could almost get a vintage air kit for that kind of money. Shop wants $825 to install my true trac and new gears(same ratio; old ring gear is chipped). I only paid $200-250? for them a year ago. Seems high to me. I have seen whole set ups for $1000-1200. Need to find one of those guys that works for beer. My charger alternator quit. Having trouble getting the bolts out. When I jacked up the car I noticed the rf wheel is loose might need a hub/bearing.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by Redline04 View Post
    Lost the A/C though... no more cool air. Monte still has the original system ~ estimate I got today sez $1326. to convert it all, but parts wonít be here for at least a week... so not even gonna try.
    Iíll stick to the 2~70 air system this year.
    Did you just loose the freon? The AC on the camaro was no-op but intact when we bought it. We had it converted to 134A last year at a shop for under $300. I think all they replaced was the dryer and the orifice tube. It's been working fine since that.

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Ready to go here! Installed new plugs today & checked the tune... washed~waxed and filled the fuel. Lost the A/C though... no more cool air. Monte still has the original system ~ estimate I got today sez $1326. to convert it all, but parts wonít be here for at least a week... so not even gonna try.
    Iíll stick to the 2~70 air system this year.

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  • oletrux4evr
    replied
    Waxed and changed oil today. While I was underneath it, I discovered the oil leak seems to be coming from the pan gasket just under the timing cover. I guess I'll have a messy engine compartment to clean each night.................replacing that gasket will have to wait. There isn't room to drop the pan. Nuts.

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