Junkyard Formula Poll

[BBR]

Broader is in my back yard and has a good local reputation. I'll be buying my parts from there pretty quick.

I have a Broader VB in my trans. Works great, unlike the TCI t-brake vb i had before that was junk,

[squirrel]

real life...my turd has a big engine, very mild power adder (I think about 5 psi when I ran dw11), and mild gearing with a 3 spd auto and was able to run 11.2x and get 11 mpg, running at 3000 rpm on the highway. The power adder really helps negate the need for rearend gears.....and running a big block also does....

What vehicle weight are you looking at with the big block version and the small block version?

btw I've run quicker on drag radials, but that's just me

[greenXpress]

Speedy, I'm gonna cut in here. (just a bit)

Squirrel, you running a carb, or injected?
I need to get around more this year and check out other combos running BB's.
My junk LOVES gas.

[squirrel]

I'm running carbs

[quick 52]

you can but a 700r4 behind your BBF I did and it has worked fine... 1952 F1 # 3870 with driver around 470 fwhp and have run a best of 11.38 @118 run 11.50s most the time. here's the combo BBF stock bottom with KB piston 10.1-1, solid FT cam, victor, 950 holley, CJ heads, 4500 stall, 3.89,275x60x15 MT DR...

[MattSwindle]

I would look at it like this..
first off.. DD is a 10.80 index..if you wanna be in the race at the end..
secondly..the SB will easily live for a week and 15-20 passes with a 100-150 shot
my buddy did it for years with junk yard motors before ever splitting the block!
thirdly..it will be quicker and easier to get the car to launch consistently with the SB in it..

tire slection..in my opinion Drag radials are a 'pain in the rain' and the super stiff sidewalls are not consistent without going to a 30" tall size which you can't do on your car..
I would go with a tall street tire for the road and then
I prefer a Hoosier QTP or a M/T ET street in a 15" dia..side walls are just stiff enough for a car of 3000-3500 lbs
and the softer compounds make them very consistent ..full slicks are okay but sometimes they take some time
to figure out..especially if your car occasionally dead hooks..and they are usually harrier on the top end at 120ish..

[quick 52]

I would look at it like this..
first off.. DD is a 10.80 index..if you wanna be in the race at the end..
secondly..the SB will easily live for a week and 15-20 passes with a 100-150 shot
my buddy did it for years with junk yard motors before ever splitting the block!
thirdly..it will be quicker and easier to get the car to launch consistently with the SB in it..

tire slection..in my opinion Drag radials are a 'pain in the rain' and the super stiff sidewalls are not consistent without going to a 30" tall size which you can't do on your car..
I would go with a tall street tire for the road and then
I prefer a Hoosier QTP or a M/T ET street in a 15" dia..side walls are just stiff enough for a car of 3000-3500 lbs
and the softer compounds make them very consistent ..full slicks are okay but sometimes they take some time
to figure out..especially if your car occasionally dead hooks..and they are usually harrier on the top end at 120ish..

this is true I but 250hp of hose on a stock 350sb I did break it but that was after a lot of runs 78 Malibu stock 77 pu motor3400# 12.70

[Beagle]

John -
ignore the text in this picture I stole from Remy-z. I believe that was a SBF , probably made 650 hp for a minute. Notice the high dollar parts attempting to keep a 450hp block together. They don't all split down the middle.

p.s. - you'll be VERY popular if you do this. The "fast" cars LOVE running their second run with 20w50 and metal fragments on the track.

[MattSwindle]

this is true I but 250hp of hose on a stock 350sb I did break it but that was after a lot of runs 78 Malibu stock 77 pu motor3400# 12.70

I know what ya mean..I've hurt some stuff myself..usually spraying 450 on a LT1 had forged pistons and hyd roller cam and Comp valve train stuff..and have melted pistions and heads..LOL
normally these LT1's will run 11.80's-11.90's on motor with the 306 cam..at 3500 lbs
spray a hundred shot and you're in the 10.80 range
I've sprayed a 150-175 shot for years..no problem at all..I've put 20k miles and hundreds of runs on 'em..
before they even start to smoke...LOL

[Beagle]

as much as it pains me to say it I think a 350 will tolerate more monkey business than a 302 will. Damn that hurt.

[CDMBill]

I voted today, 5 votes for each choice other than bring back 'store bought' so we have consensus as usual. I like the BBF approach (go figure) with the 700 or even a 200 with the right parts as they can be done for half what I have in my AOD including SuperBell which solves the adaptor and SFI issues at the same time. Your issues with drag radials were due to the mis-match to the stick. All you'll need is 275/60 tire and you can do the drive on Mickey's, I did, twice including the rain year 2006. You need good shocks regardless if you have typical Fox rear suspension and slicks are a band-aid for inept suspension tuning. I know as I am not ept at all.

Warmed over 460 with used CJ heads and Victor intake you'll be at lower 11's and in the dance if the car lives without spray. Add a 150-175 shot and be somebody. Everything special you need for the engine and front suspension is out there cheap, new or used. Not to mention 800,000 build threads on the 'bullet, magazines etc. 550 ft lbs. in your sleep.

[38P]

Update

Good ideas!

Beagle and JeffMcKC have mostly dissuaded me from trying an on-the-edge JY 302, even as some report success with such grenades:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...lock-take.html
"My previous engine in my '84 was a 308 with a 250 shot. Ran it for 8 years with only main studs. The only provisions was a good fuel system, coated pistons, retard box, and colder plugs."

"Stock parts are not all that bad. Our '83 goes thru one crank every three years. That is a stock crank with stock rods and pistons revving at 9000 RPM and being droped on 30x9 slicks. We can not run anything but ARP main bolts (NHRA rules).

Murdock"

The all-iron BBF is going to be a lot more difficult to pull off with the time and current budget limitations.

Fuel system and reliable transmission solutions (at least ones beyond a 4bbl carb and a C6) are more challenging with the BBF. But the car won't have to stripped-out to hit the power-to-weight target. And the potential to finish . . . while still a bit dodgy . . . would be measurably improved.

Unless I just can't overcome the rollbar fabrication problem in the brief time remaining, I'll probably shoot for 10.50 (10.80) . . . and maybe hit 11.50 with this pile of junk . . . . LOL

6 x 600 = 3,600 lbs . . . which ought to be good enough for 127 - 128 m.p.h. Roughly 1.30 horsepower per cube. That's less than 200 h.p. more than a moderate cam, small valve, iron head 460 can reasonably produce on its own . . .

Here's a "Proven" power combo from http://www.429-460.com/t121-big-bloc...ed-by-djohagin (Not that this is exactly how I'm probably going to build it)

425-450HP 460ci

Intake System:

750cfm Holley DP professionally calibrated for your application
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

D0VE head with mild port job, chambers polished, and port match
(315-ish/180-ish cfm @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Roller rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam Custom Spec Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
Based on the Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Series
Intake Lobe 5443 and Exhaust Lobe 5203
(Specs:268/280 adv., 224/[email protected], .524/.544 lift, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9.5:1
Stock crank
Stock rods with good bolts
Standard volume oil pump
Stock oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1 7/8" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6000 rpm.

The power adder would only have to add about 33% more power . . . well within factory parts strength limits.

Then it will just be a matter of getting the E.T. closer to the m.p.h. (suspension and driver) . . . and keeping it all together for 3,000 miles or so.

And the GM-based OD transmissions are winning the cost-benefit-availability analysis at the moment (that could be its own thread, if I had the time to discuss it . . .

I will say it's simply shocking that the AODE/4R7xx have been around so long and in such large quantities, but so little has been done to adapt 'em to 460s (i.e. no JW Ultrabell, except for the old AOD that's been out of production for over twenty years) . . . and the controversial E4OD/4R100 transmissions are so hard to find . . . and still so expensive . . . . )

Back to work . . . thanks for the advice.

[38P]

Only 117 days (or so . . . seat-of-the-pants guess) before that pile of junk parts strung all over the shop has to be sitting on the Bowling Green inspection line! No pressure.

[AdvAutoBob]

Only 117 days (or so . . . seat-of-the-pants guess) before that pile of junk parts strung all over the shop has to be sitting on the Bowling Green inspection line! No pressure.

none at all... ;)

[38P]

Hey, I'm inspired by JeffMcKc's epic 2006 thrash . . . .



Reportedly about 18 days out from DW '06 . . . .

(Of course he's a real, trained, experienced master tech, and not some stooge "keyboard/checkbook racer" like the Outsider . . . .)