I am doing something unique, derived conclusion on my own.. and now second guessing.

This is thick 2 inch for marine use/biodiesel/industrial. 304 stainless, and not cast of course, all weldable. I do not need the threads to work, it was simply a good price threaded.
I have some last venturi on a cylinder head exit, upside down exhaust boxer.. need to remove restriction, and need something outrageous.
I know v8s get darn big, but cannot place where I saw a thick pipe just for a few inches coming out of a cylinder head.
pipe above will be cut in half. 3 inches for each head. The thread part will be going through flange, welded, and into the head, not screwed in, simply fits the hole about 3/8ths above flange as a sleeve. flange welded to the thick pipe.
will this do something crazy like heat soak or something I am missing?

I have got everything correct except the silly incorrect math of Subaru oem has a remnant of my new header, already 2 inch stainless. I think its 1.6 inches or less for a short distance. I was mistaken to think it needed it. it cannot hold a seal even sunk into the head port snugly. Too much restriction.
I am simply snipping all that top part off, going with new flanges, mild steel, welded to the stainless cut in half.. I am just curious as to the upside down and thicker steel. the block is a brick, material unknown. With engine running it does not even set off a very sensitive electromagnetic detector. The threads actually gave me some thought as a wire ride for the last electrical energy in each fire. the block being that resistant, the threads are a helper into the pipe.
I am guessing it will be ok, but.. a guru would be great. oh, this is setup for max cfm..hence the drama. this is not an ea82 boxer you find at usmb or Nasioc.
In short..I guess there is some history trivia as well as some advie needed:
This is thick 2 inch for marine use/biodiesel/industrial. 304 stainless, and not cast of course, all weldable. I do not need the threads to work, it was simply a good price threaded.
I have some last venturi on a cylinder head exit, upside down exhaust boxer.. need to remove restriction, and need something outrageous.
I know v8s get darn big, but cannot place where I saw a thick pipe just for a few inches coming out of a cylinder head.
pipe above will be cut in half. 3 inches for each head. The thread part will be going through flange, welded, and into the head, not screwed in, simply fits the hole about 3/8ths above flange as a sleeve. flange welded to the thick pipe.
will this do something crazy like heat soak or something I am missing?
I have got everything correct except the silly incorrect math of Subaru oem has a remnant of my new header, already 2 inch stainless. I think its 1.6 inches or less for a short distance. I was mistaken to think it needed it. it cannot hold a seal even sunk into the head port snugly. Too much restriction.
I am simply snipping all that top part off, going with new flanges, mild steel, welded to the stainless cut in half.. I am just curious as to the upside down and thicker steel. the block is a brick, material unknown. With engine running it does not even set off a very sensitive electromagnetic detector. The threads actually gave me some thought as a wire ride for the last electrical energy in each fire. the block being that resistant, the threads are a helper into the pipe.
I am guessing it will be ok, but.. a guru would be great. oh, this is setup for max cfm..hence the drama. this is not an ea82 boxer you find at usmb or Nasioc.
In short..I guess there is some history trivia as well as some advie needed:
- what engine had a thick pipe coming out of every cylinder for a few inches, then off to a 16 gauge normal piping?
- and..upside down thick steel sleeved into head a bit..too much heat going to be kept?

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